leveling with cindar blocks - Dutchmen Owners

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Old 08-06-2020, 01:30 AM   #1
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leveling with cindar blocks

I have a 2020 Aspen Trail 3210bhds that is now parked on a permanent site and that I leveled with cinder blocks using two bottle jacks. the trailer is perfectly level but the main door seems to bind and have to pull hard to latch. the rear bathroom door has a slight gap at the top edge to the point of seeing the outside and the outside kitchen large door is not square to closing properly.
I leveled side to side then front to back.Am i somehow twisting the frame and if so what can i do to correct it.

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Old 08-06-2020, 01:58 PM   #2
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Frames Bend Under Load

Travel trailers are designed to be supported primarily where the axles are. Supporting at rear corners and suspending axles means the frame is flexed the wrong way. Corner jacks are for stabilization. Axles support most of the weight.

Dutchmen TT's are designed to be low cost and put together on the run. There is little extra in the frame to keep it stiff.

Move the primary support points nearer the axles and only stabilize near the corners.

I wish you good luck!

Paul Bristol
Dutchman Kodiak Cub KD176RD 2018
Nissan Pathfinder 2015
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Old 08-06-2020, 05:24 PM   #3
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Agree with Persistent above, you need to get the wheels as level as possible. I had similar issues when trying to level with stabilizers and that bends the frame ever so slightly. They are not levelers, they are stabilizers so do your best to get the trailer level at the wheels first then stabilize at the corners.
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Old 08-07-2020, 04:52 AM   #4
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Agree level at the wheels. You can put stands under the axles where the springs are to take load off the tires. then stabilize the corners as above comments.

Mike & Emily-Sacramento, CA
Our 4th trailer (2016 Aspen Trail 1900RB)
2018 F150 STX 2.7 Eco Boost
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Old 08-07-2020, 11:04 AM   #5
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Going to to do the above suggested today and will post my results, thanks all for your help
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Old 08-13-2020, 01:33 AM   #6
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Don't level at the axles, your trailer will Teeter Totter on you. Come about a 1/4 of the way in from each end and level on the blocks the way you did originally. Trailers have not always had stabilizers at the corners, we used Jack Stands positioned as I said. You have flex in the frame and you have to minimize that flex, like they do with mobile homes.
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Old 08-13-2020, 01:25 PM   #7
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Rochester
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After setting up and leveling my old Surveyor I never knew if I could close the bathroom door or even the main door for that matter. All depended upon how much tension I put on the stabilizers (using a cordless drill). My guess is I was asking them to do more than just stabilize the trailer, which twisted the frame. With my Aerolite (not applicable here, unfortunately) the Lippert auto leveling system actually lifts the trailer a tad at frame points designed for that purpose. The result is a rock solid trailer that really is level. The advice given by others seems on point. Once the trailer is level on the tires, focus leveling support near the axles and use the stabilizers for just stabilizing. You may be able to tweak it here and there to eliminate the flex. Good luck.
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Old 08-16-2020, 10:05 PM   #8
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Thanks everyone for your advice,I read all and took a little away from all of them.
Step by step of what I did and solved my problem...
Raised stabilizers back up
Used bottle jacks near the axle and raised trailer enough to remove cinder blocks
Checked level front to back and made minor adjustment with power tongue jack
(with bottle jacks removed of course)
check level left to right and only had to make minor adjustments and moved cinder blocks a little closer to the axle
removed bottle jacks and lowered stabilizers...perfect now,all doors open and close fine.

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