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11-05-2015, 03:31 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Houston
Posts: 13
Texas
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aspen trail 2810BHS
So I have less than a year on my 2810 BHS ad am having a few issues that I would love to get advice on. Since now is the season I use the trailer I am not really interested in taking advantage on the warranty and leaving it at the dealer for months on end.
- a/c freezing up and ice falling into living room. Neighbor at our camp had same issue and he had an a/c guy ad freon and it fixed the issue.
- water leak over starboard side mater bedroom closet when raining.
- water coming from under bathroom sink cabinet. Believe this is when I use the black water tank flush the dealer added but need to watch it more closely.
Other issues for anyone looking at these units.
Rubber gasket around port side hatch won't stay in place. They cut it too short when they installed it.
The screen on the main door is torn and I have never even used it.
I would appreciate advice on the water leaks. Getting under the sink seems difficult since it is all sealed up. Believe I will have to remove the cabinetry.
Thank you!
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11-05-2015, 06:21 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: kamloops
Posts: 2,152
British Columbia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aqua vita
So I have less than a year on my 2810 BHS ad am having a few issues that I would love to get advice on. Since now is the season I use the trailer I am not really interested in taking advantage on the warranty and leaving it at the dealer for months on end.
- a/c freezing up and ice falling into living room. Neighbor at our camp had same issue and he had an a/c guy ad freon and it fixed the issue.
- water leak over starboard side mater bedroom closet when raining.
- water coming from under bathroom sink cabinet. Believe this is when I use the black water tank flush the dealer added but need to watch it more closely.
Other issues for anyone looking at these units.
Rubber gasket around port side hatch won't stay in place. They cut it too short when they installed it.
The screen on the main door is torn and I have never even used it.
I would appreciate advice on the water leaks. Getting under the sink seems difficult since it is all sealed up. Believe I will have to remove the cabinetry.
Thank you!
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Check your original post about the A/C.
I wouldn't wait to get the waster leaks looked at and repaired "Properly". There is just too much stuff that will rot, mold and mildew the longer you leave it. Then to the longer you leave it the farther the water damage will travel and if it gets in to the floor, it won't be pretty.
I understand the disappointment you feel and why you don't want to loose the use of your camper just when you want it most.
The worst part could be you leaving an out for Dutchmen/Thor to deny any warranty coverage at all.
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11-05-2015, 08:59 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Meridian
Posts: 54
Idaho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aqua vita
So I have less than a year on my 2810 BHS ad am having a few issues that I would love to get advice on. Since now is the season I use the trailer I am not really interested in taking advantage on the warranty and leaving it at the dealer for months on end.
- a/c freezing up and ice falling into living room. Neighbor at our camp had same issue and he had an a/c guy ad freon and it fixed the issue.
- water leak over starboard side mater bedroom closet when raining.
- water coming from under bathroom sink cabinet. Believe this is when I use the black water tank flush the dealer added but need to watch it more closely.
Other issues for anyone looking at these units.
Rubber gasket around port side hatch won't stay in place. They cut it too short when they installed it.
The screen on the main door is torn and I have never even used it.
I would appreciate advice on the water leaks. Getting under the sink seems difficult since it is all sealed up. Believe I will have to remove the cabinetry.
Thank you!
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Although I haven't had any leaks, I needed more storage space so I removed the panel they have within the framework under the sink. It exposes all the lines and drain, even the one coming from the sink. I actually place insulation on the floor and placed a shelf to put towels on. This might help you in finding a leak.
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11-14-2015, 11:09 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Ft. Pierce
Posts: 312
Florida
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You are experiencing potentially serious problems. You should get it to the dealer ASAP.
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11-15-2015, 12:46 AM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: North East
Posts: 15
Pennsylvania
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I would agree back to the dealer our 2014 has been trouble free
__________________
2014 Aspen Trail 2810 BHS
2015 Ram 2500 cclb 5.7
gone-2006 F150 CC 5.4 PHP tuned, JBA headders, Volant CAI, MBRP duals
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11-16-2015, 08:55 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Eldersburg
Posts: 301
Maryland
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If the shower is next to the bathroom cabinet, I would check the seal on the shower to make sure that it is sealed. I had to re-caulk the shower stall as there was enough of a gap that water was actually coming from the shower when used and running down to the floor and under the cabinet. Also check the P-trap under the sink to make sure that piping is tight.
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Matt
2011 Chevy Suburban 2500 4x4
2015 Kodiak 300BHLS
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12-06-2015, 03:25 PM
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#7
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New Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: clearwater
Posts: 2
Florida
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I have a 2016 2810 bhs with same ac problems and some other problems, took it to camping world they put tape on it and said they fixed it, got it back home and froze up first nite,now have to take it back again, RIDICULOUS
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12-08-2015, 09:16 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: North East
Posts: 15
Pennsylvania
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If you are near erie Pennsylvania take it to boyer rv these guys are top notch for service
__________________
2014 Aspen Trail 2810 BHS
2015 Ram 2500 cclb 5.7
gone-2006 F150 CC 5.4 PHP tuned, JBA headders, Volant CAI, MBRP duals
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12-08-2015, 09:18 AM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: North East
Posts: 15
Pennsylvania
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We bought our first rv at a different dealer soon as we signed the other dealer handed us the keys and walked away. Boyers took the time to show us how everything worked, even gave me some tips on backing it up
__________________
2014 Aspen Trail 2810 BHS
2015 Ram 2500 cclb 5.7
gone-2006 F150 CC 5.4 PHP tuned, JBA headders, Volant CAI, MBRP duals
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12-08-2015, 01:28 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: kamloops
Posts: 2,152
British Columbia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warwagon98xj
We bought our first rv at a different dealer soon as we signed the other dealer handed us the keys and walked away. Boyers took the time to show us how everything worked, even gave me some tips on backing it up
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Did you let Dutchmen know what kind or Stealership you bought your camper from?
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12-08-2015, 01:56 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: North East
Posts: 15
Pennsylvania
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First one was a piece of forest river garbage
__________________
2014 Aspen Trail 2810 BHS
2015 Ram 2500 cclb 5.7
gone-2006 F150 CC 5.4 PHP tuned, JBA headders, Volant CAI, MBRP duals
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12-20-2015, 04:28 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: North East
Posts: 15
Pennsylvania
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The difference in frames between forest river and Dutchmen is un real
__________________
2014 Aspen Trail 2810 BHS
2015 Ram 2500 cclb 5.7
gone-2006 F150 CC 5.4 PHP tuned, JBA headders, Volant CAI, MBRP duals
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12-20-2015, 04:53 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: kamloops
Posts: 2,152
British Columbia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warwagon98xj
The difference in frames between forest river and Dutchmen is un real
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How so?
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12-20-2015, 05:04 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Ft. Pierce
Posts: 312
Florida
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I don't know about the frames, but we bought a new 2002 FR Salem 30RL and it nearly fell apart in 3 years. We pieced it together long enough to trade for a 2005 Denali and we only had minimal problems with it until we traded it a couple of months ago for a 2015 Denali. And the Salem designers had no input from users. We had to crawl under the slide to operate the dump valves and we had to let the slide out to use the restroom.
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12-20-2015, 06:40 PM
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#15
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Sprung Leak
Posts: 3,157
North Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Handyman
I don't know about the frames, but we bought a new 2002 FR Salem 30RL and it nearly fell apart in 3 years. We pieced it together long enough to trade for a 2005 Denali and we only had minimal problems with it until we traded it a couple of months ago for a 2015 Denali. And the Salem designers had no input from users. We had to crawl under the slide to operate the dump valves and we had to let the slide out to use the restroom.
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Same way Dutchmen/Thor "designs" stuff.
The only way they get a decent design is when they buy up a smaller company that used to built decent stuff. Then as time evolves it too falls prey to the profits first mantra and the quality goes away it just becomes another name.
Aaron
__________________
There is madness to my methods
2015 Coleman CM16FBS(traded) 2016 Concord 300DS
2015 Ford Fusion Hybrid following along
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12-21-2015, 10:12 PM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: North East
Posts: 15
Pennsylvania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hddecker
How so?
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The 30ft forest river was on a 4" i beam fram
Our 30 ft aspen trail is on 6" x 2.25" box steel
__________________
2014 Aspen Trail 2810 BHS
2015 Ram 2500 cclb 5.7
gone-2006 F150 CC 5.4 PHP tuned, JBA headders, Volant CAI, MBRP duals
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12-21-2015, 10:51 PM
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#17
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Sprung Leak
Posts: 3,157
North Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warwagon98xj
The 30ft forest river was on a 4" i beam fram
Our 30 ft aspen trail is on 6" x 2.25" box steel
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Only one issue with that... comparing apples to oranges.
Without some engineering data those numbers don't mean ANYTHING. You need to know the thickness of the steel as well as the full section dimensions. I have seen plenty of tube steel that was not as strong as a similar sized section of C-channel or I-beam. Then again I have seen I-beam sections that weren't as strong as piece of C-channel with a thicker wall section, but the same depth. Then you have to consider the alloy of the steel....
Aaron
__________________
There is madness to my methods
2015 Coleman CM16FBS(traded) 2016 Concord 300DS
2015 Ford Fusion Hybrid following along
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12-21-2015, 11:39 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: kamloops
Posts: 2,152
British Columbia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wahoonc
Only one issue with that... comparing apples to oranges.
Without some engineering data those numbers don't mean ANYTHING. You need to know the thickness of the steel as well as the full section dimensions. I have seen plenty of tube steel that was not as strong as a similar sized section of C-channel or I-beam. Then again I have seen I-beam sections that weren't as strong as piece of C-channel with a thicker wall section, but the same depth. Then you have to consider the alloy of the steel....
Aaron
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My 30' has a 6" I-beam frame.
I'd be willing to bet that you will find different styles of frames, from different frame builders, on same model year campers.
Who really knows what frame is used and what frame should have been used. We know how Dutchmen designs their products and the non-existant QC system that they use.
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12-22-2015, 12:23 AM
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#19
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Sprung Leak
Posts: 3,157
North Carolina
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I agree. There are at least 7 frame builders that I can identify. Who specs what is the crap shoot. Does the RV assembler call up a frame builder and specify what they want? Or do they call up the frame builder and tell them to send something for a 32' 8000# GVW unit and leave it up to them to decide? Who the hell knows. But given some of what I have seen it maybe up to the bean counters to decide what frame gets use. Airstream frames from the 1970's were notoriously bad on the longer trailers. They increased the cross section by an inch for the 1980's models as well as increasing the strength of the steel that went into them.
Aaron
__________________
There is madness to my methods
2015 Coleman CM16FBS(traded) 2016 Concord 300DS
2015 Ford Fusion Hybrid following along
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12-22-2015, 03:26 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: kamloops
Posts: 2,152
British Columbia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wahoonc
I agree. There are at least 7 frame builders that I can identify. Who specs what is the crap shoot. Does the RV assembler call up a frame builder and specify what they want? Or do they call up the frame builder and tell them to send something for a 32' 8000# GVW unit and leave it up to them to decide? Who the hell knows. But given some of what I have seen it maybe up to the bean counters to decide what frame gets use. Airstream frames from the 1970's were notoriously bad on the longer trailers. They increased the cross section by an inch for the 1980's models as well as increasing the strength of the steel that went into them.
Aaron
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The real killer on those long '70s Airstreams was the rear bath. The mid bath models didn't suffer quite as bad with the saggy backend. When We were Airstream shopping we only saw one mid bath 30' from the '70s, thankfully it was a gut and rebuild so we didn't even give it a second thought.
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