Zone 2 12v power issue on 2019 Kodiak 248bhsl

[Ddd586]

My "zone 2" 12v circuit keeps blowing the 15amp fuse instantly. Some background and things ive checked:
- owned the unit for 1.5 years, issue just randomly started recently.
- zone 2 circuit is the overhead lights, bathroom lights/fan, pantry lights, co detector, fridge control, range hood light/fan, oven lights, outside kitchen light.
- no mods have been to done to cause this.
- no other 12v issues occurring. Bedroom lights, thermostat, outside lights, slide, waterpump, etc. All work.
- ive pulled the range hood down and all zone 2 lights down, no broken or loose wires or anything touching metal.
- i have continuity between the zone 2 power lug and ground bar, so there is a short to ground somewhere i think.

Any ideas on where to look? Hate to dig into the walls, roof or sealed underbelly unless i have to. Thanks!

[Thom]

You are on the right track. Start by ensuring everything with a switch is turned off (lights, fan, vents). This will eliminate those item but not necessarily the wiring to them.
Items without switch (O2 sensor) disconnect one power lead on each item one at a time.
If that doesn't pin point the issue, it's time to isolate each branch circuit by disconnecting items at fuse box for the zone 2 circuit.
If issue started after an event such as when slideout was extended or retracted, that could be a hint as to where to look for pinched wires.

[persistent]

Good advice posted above!

I assume you know how to properly measure resistance to ground and will not mistake a low resistance for a dead short.

Easy to do things you may have already done: Visually check connections near the fuse panel. Loose wires touching inappropriate connectors are par for the course in RV's. Tighten connector screws. Wiggle splice connectors etc. There may be one or more bus bars or terminals where positives or negatives are grouped.

First pull the fuse. Then good troubleshooting technique is called for. Basically you want to narrow down where the fault is. For instance most lights are daisy chained. You may not know which one is first, but by disconnecting them one at a time and measuring hot to ground resistance on input and output side, you can eliminate some parts of the circuits. A similar technique can be used on many other fixtures and outlets. Don't reconnect anything until you are finished and the faulty portion of the circuit remains shorted.

There are cheap electrical troubleshooting tools used to trace wires. Some of them can tell you distance to a short. Search for electricians tools.

I wish you good luck and happy trails ahead!

[Ddd586]

Thanks for your replies so far. Im learning as I go on this electrical issue for sure. What should a good resistance be in the circuit? Should i start with what i think is the closest light in the chain or the farthest one?

Thanks!

[persistent]

Theoretical, the shortest path to troubleshoot is to start in the middle. That will cut possible fault locations in half. Practically speaking, easily accessible places can shorten the time and work necessary.. A mix of the two strategies is probably best. Sitting around thinking about it is the least productive.

Resistance through 14 gauge wire to a short and back should be almost zero. Typical inexpensive ohm meters will read zero. However, any appliance still connected to the circuit and still in "on" condition can also look like zero ohms. So disconnecting things can help a lot. Always "on" control boards and motors frequently confuse issues.

[Ddd586]

So there was a pinched/broken wire in the wall behind where the tv mounts. It was likely manufactured that way and just took a year to wear through. That explains why messing with the vent hood over the stove fixed it a couple times because it was probably moving that busted wire just enough.
Dealer fished a new wire through that section and all seems good now. All was covered under warranty too.

[franktafl]

Thanks for the info and posting the resolution!

Happy Camping!