Kodiak Cub Owners?

[franktafl]

Originally Posted by TK on the road

Hey cub owners - have had a 2018 175BH for about 5 months now - flushed everything out the past 2 trips and after each time it still shows the tank is 3/4 fill - previous trips and Flushes have shown “E” after.
Ideas?
By the way - this is really a great trailer!
Thank you
Tom

Which tank is it? You may try to use something called COMMANDO if it is the black tank. You may have some "particles" stuck to the sensor. Make sure you follow the instructions.

[TK on the road]

Thank you - yes it is the black tank - I have used the black tank flush - I will look into your recommdation

[gsills]

Im glad i found this page. I plan to also mod the door to the hot water tank.

Next question has anyone attempted to connect a furrion camera to the pre installed area.

Is the wire always hot even if not plugged into the tow vehicle ? or does it only work with reverse ?
I basically want to have it as an observation camera / find a cheaper camera to run

[franktafl]

I put some hinges and needed to be able to open the door when I wanted to bypass the HWH! Not sure why they put those four screws in there and not a working door!

[teacherman]

Picked up a 2018 Cub 176rd a couple of days ago. Shakedown trip to Yellowstone in 3 days. No real issues with trim other than the bottom of the fridge door popped off which allowed the "stainless" panel to drop. Popped it back on and seems good to go. My understanding of the "mount tv here" sticker is that there is a thicker backing so mounting a light 19' tv will be fine?
Lastly, noticed that some 176rd have smaller sink and undercounter fridge. Ours has the farmer's sink and larger fridge with separate freezer. Both are rd models.....

[Thom]

Originally Posted by teacherman

Picked up a 2018 Cub 176rd a couple of days ago. Shakedown trip to Yellowstone in 3 days. No real issues with trim other than the bottom of the fridge door popped off which allowed the "stainless" panel to drop. Popped it back on and seems good to go. My understanding of the "mount tv here" sticker is that there is a thicker backing so mounting a light 19' tv will be fine?
Lastly, noticed that some 176rd have smaller sink and undercounter fridge. Ours has the farmer's sink and larger fridge with separate freezer. Both are rd models.....

Yes, that sticker is supposed to indicate where the backer board is, BUT, the person who put the sticker on probably isn't the same person who put the backer board in place. Best thing you can do to be sure is use a stud finder to find out for sure.

[franktafl]

Originally Posted by Thom

Yes, that sticker is supposed to indicate where the backer board is, BUT, the person who put the sticker on probably isn't the same person who put the backer board in place. Best thing you can do to be sure is use a stud finder to find out for sure.

THIS IS VERY GOOD ADVICE. mine had the sticker but NO board.

[Corum999]

Originally Posted by gsills

Next question has anyone attempted to connect a furrion camera to the pre installed area.

Is the wire always hot even if not plugged into the tow vehicle ? or does it only work with reverse ?
I basically want to have it as an observation camera / find a cheaper camera to run

I added the observation camera to our 175BH and it works GREAT. The power lead is on when you turn on the marker (running) lights. For our Jeep Grand Cherokee the camera comes on when I turn on the headlights. It is nice for backing up, but also very useful when running down the road because you can see who is behind you and when you are past someone if passing.

Make sure you keep the antenna pointing up as it will help with your signal. This guy has some useful videos on install and maximizing the signal quality: https://youtu.be/5Z9KXXzXrqQ

I highly recommend this upgrade

[Corum999]

Originally Posted by Thom

Yes, that sticker is supposed to indicate where the backer board is, BUT, the person who put the sticker on probably isn't the same person who put the backer board in place. Best thing you can do to be sure is use a stud finder to find out for sure.

I had a backer board in mine but it sure doesn't seem too big. I was able to attach a mount OK and so far it is working well. I detach the TV when we travel as a precaution.

I ended up going with this mount as it was the closest I could find to the one they installed on the outside at the factory: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4OQ7ZW/
(Looks like it is unavailable from Amazon at the moment)

[gsills]

Has anyone installed or figured out if we can install a rear ladder on the cub ?

I want to have access to the roof while camping in case of a leak or to help put the cover on when i get home ect...

Thanks!!

[TK on the road]

I used a similar mount but it tilts and swivels which works great - same mount outside the cub too!
Get it on amazon!!

MORryde TV5-002H Swivel and Tilt Portable TV Wall Mount

[Corum999]

Originally Posted by gsills

Has anyone installed or figured out if we can install a rear ladder on the cub ?

I want to have access to the roof while camping in case of a leak or to help put the cover on when i get home ect...

I have seen people use a Telescoping Aluminum Ladder like a Cosco 16'. The better ones support 300lbs and compact down to a really small size that you can store in the pass through. I have one on my upgrades wish list

[KCOC]

Originally Posted by TK on the road

Hey cub owners - have had a 2018 175BH for about 5 months now - flushed everything out the past 2 trips and after each time it still shows the tank is 3/4 fill - previous trips and Flushes have shown “E” after.
Ideas?
By the way - this is really a great trailer!
Thank you
Tom

I have the same unit. I’m not sure why your sensors aren’t working properly, but I will say in each tank and after the first few times I flushed them, I noticed crescent moon shaped plastic getting stuck at the end near my drain port. It was debris from when they cut into the tanks to connect the plumbing. Maybe you have some of that stuck on your sensors?.?.?

I suggest letting your spray port run for some time to see if you can get any of that out. I have found that by letting my tank fill up a bit (not too much, don’t want it to backup in the TT) before opening the drain cap it does a better job flushing the lines. More power as it flushes through the line.

I also have done the trick of adding a bag of ice to my black tank before i leave a site so when im driving, the ice “scrubs” my black tank and can clean off the sensors.

Good luck!

[wahoonc]

Sensors get TP and other debris caught on them, gives a false reading. Try using the Geo-Method for keep the tanks clean. I have done it for close to 20 years and other than the occasional bad sensor have never had an issue.

Aaron

[franktafl]

Originally Posted by wahoonc

Sensors get TP and other debris caught on them, gives a false reading. Try using the Geo-Method for keep the tanks clean. I have done it for close to 20 years and other than the occasional bad sensor have never had an issue.

Aaron

That article had some really interesting and thought provoking information in it. here's something Charles said that I think is very interesting and something I have never thought about...

"I've seen forum posts lately indicating that some RV parks are asking customers what kind of chemicals are in their waste water tanks, and in their cupboards. I find this hard to believe. It's none of their business. I feel no obligation to answer questions that the questioner has no business asking. Especially when I'll be penalized for a wrong answer. So, the correct answer that I would give is, "I don't use any chemicals at all." That should end the inquisition. If it goes beyond that it's time to take my business elsewhere. They most often need my business way more than I need their park.
My tanks are plastic and my pipes are PVC.
Don't be afraid to use your tanks. Just use common sense about their care and maintenance.
These tips are inexpensive to do. Some of them don't cost anything. You have nothing to lose in trying them and I encourage you to do so. I actually feel a certain amount of pride in the condition and cleanliness of both my waste and fresh water systems. Naturally, these tips make dumping a much more pleasant and sanitary procedure.
If you have odors in any of your water systems these procedures should eliminate them. Odors indicate a sanitary problem and degrade the enjoyment you derive from your RV.
When my RV is parked and not in use I place stoppers in the sink and tub drains. This forces the wastewater tanks to vent through the vent pipes to the outside instead of through the drains into the RV. Water evaporates. Once the drain traps dry out during periods of non-use, nothing is there to prevent gasses (odor) from venting into the camper. Use stoppers when your RV is stored."

[persistent]

I usually fill the Kodiak Cub 50 g fresh tank before I leave home. It pulls smoother with my Nisan Pathfinder. I usually pull empty on the way home. There is more buffeting when pulling with empty tanks. There is more tongue load with full fresh tank. It seams to make no significant difference in MPG either way.
Paul Bristol

[persistent]

"House extension cords" frequently come in 16 gage size. That is not enough to run a big motor of any sort.
Use to 30 amp cord that came with your TT and the 20 amp adapter at the house socket.
If you really want to use a home extension cord, buy a new one with at least 10 gage wire in it and not over 50 ft long. 12 gage is technically enough, but 50 ft is pushing the limit. Do not string multiple cords together. The contact resistance in the connectors gets to be too much.
Paul Bristol

[persistent]

Let me modify that a little. Your Kodiak user manual says you can use two cords or devices. So, One 30 amp cord and one 20 amp adapter or two 30 amp cords and no 20 amp adapter, or one 30 amp cord and one 50 amp adapter.
The manual is the same one for multiple Kodiak TT's. So the Cub having fewer AC powered devices can probably push the limits. I have these AC devices in my Cub:
Air Conditioner
Water Heater
Refrig
12 volt converter
Microwave
You can find rated loads for these devices in their manuals.
If you truly have only 15 amps available, you should not run any other of these devices at the same time as the Air. If your batteries are fully charged you could run the converter with LED lights. Any more pushes the limits on the home fuse or breaker.
Many modern home outlets are 20 amp. The socket looks a little different. You would still use the 15 amp adapter but you can pull more amps from the outlet.
The water heater and microwave are still off limits. You may want to get a volt meter and monitor the voltage when the Air is running. Less than 110 volt starts stresses the air motor in that it draws more current to make up the required power. More current means more motor heat. More motor heat means shorter life.
My previous advice on extension cords still holds. Distance and number of connectors work against you. Larger wires in the cord (10 gage) work in your favor. You could even make your own 50 foot extension cord with a 30 amp socket on it to eliminate the adapter.
Paul Bristol

[wahoonc]

Originally Posted by franktafl

That article had some really interesting and thought provoking information in it. here's something Charles said that I think is very interesting and something I have never thought about...

"I've seen forum posts lately indicating that some RV parks are asking customers what kind of chemicals are in their waste water tanks, and in their cupboards. I find this hard to believe. It's none of their business. I feel no obligation to answer questions that the questioner has no business asking. Especially when I'll be penalized for a wrong answer. So, the correct answer that I would give is, "I don't use any chemicals at all." That should end the inquisition. If it goes beyond that it's time to take my business elsewhere. They most often need my business way more than I need their park.
My tanks are plastic and my pipes are PVC.
Don't be afraid to use your tanks. Just use common sense about their care and maintenance.
These tips are inexpensive to do. Some of them don't cost anything. You have nothing to lose in trying them and I encourage you to do so. I actually feel a certain amount of pride in the condition and cleanliness of both my waste and fresh water systems. Naturally, these tips make dumping a much more pleasant and sanitary procedure.
If you have odors in any of your water systems these procedures should eliminate them. Odors indicate a sanitary problem and degrade the enjoyment you derive from your RV.
When my RV is parked and not in use I place stoppers in the sink and tub drains. This forces the wastewater tanks to vent through the vent pipes to the outside instead of through the drains into the RV. Water evaporates. Once the drain traps dry out during periods of non-use, nothing is there to prevent gasses (odor) from venting into the camper. Use stoppers when your RV is stored."

I understand the park's concerns with chemicals. Unfortunately in many jurisdictions they are being monitored and any out of the ordinary chemicals can result in a fine, also many campgrounds use septic systems which strong chemicals can damage costing large amounts to repair.

We had a recent run in with the local sewer authority due to excess oil showing up in some of their test wells. They were accusing us of dumping oil on the ground. Turns out there was an abandoned underground oil storage tank on an adjacent property that no one knew about. There had been a house there, but it was torn down over 30 years ago, but the tank was left in the ground.

Unfortunately people don't always do the right thing when it comes to proper disposal of chemicals, whether through ignorance or lack of caring.

As far as the p traps... many of the newer rigs are starting to use the waterless traps. I first used these on an Airsteam rebuild about 12 years ago due to clearance issues. My current motor home has these installed. Great product in that you don't have to worry about the freezing or drying out aspects. However you don't want to run a snake down the drain! It will damage them.

Aaron

[Thom]

Originally Posted by wahoonc

I understand the park's concerns with chemicals.
Unfortunately people don't always do the right thing when it comes to proper disposal of chemicals, whether through ignorance or lack of caring.


Aaron

It has always surprised me that most rest stops in Alabama actually have public dump stations for the very reasons you mentioned.