201QB floor soft spot

[Bob]

I have a 2017 Kodiak 201QB that has recently developed a soft spot in the floor. Has anyone seen this or had there floor repaired. In YouTube videos people cut out the bad spot, replace the subfloor and then put down new flooring. However, the subfloor is only 1/4 inch thick in these units. Replacing it is not going to solve the soft floor problem unless some sort of support is added under it. I have a feeling I could get in over my head in a hurry.

Any suggestions?

[franktafl]

Originally Posted by Bob

I have a 2017 Kodiak 201QB that has recently developed a soft spot in the floor. Has anyone seen this or had there floor repaired. In YouTube videos people cut out the bad spot, replace the subfloor and then put down new flooring. However, the subfloor is only 1/4 inch thick in these units. Replacing it is not going to solve the soft floor problem unless some sort of support is added under it. I have a feeling I could get in over my head in a hurry.

Any suggestions?

Good morning. From what I have seen on my rv when it developed a soft spot, the floor is made up of two thin sheets of plywood with a styrofoam layer between them. You can check this by looking under the shower or under the sink where they have a hole cut for pipes. Your soft floor is probably a result of the styrofoam between the layers disintegrating and the plywood itself not being able to support the weight alone.

You may be able to reinforce it by drilling a small hole and injecting expanding foam into the space if you find out your floor is made this way.

https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...g?format=1500w

https://www.performancepanels.com/re...al-vehicles-rv

[JT and the Bugster]

I wonder how the floor problem worked out? I too am having soft floor issues and thought over laying floor with 5/8” plywood screwed down then replacing flooring. Any comments appreciated.

[persistent]

Some folks have reported removing everything above the floor.
Remove the thin top floor panel.
Remove the foam.

Replace the foam. Glue it to sub floor.
Glue in periodic reinforcing pine strips to improve strength.
Glue on top floor panel.

This can also be done in smaller sections.

[JT and the Bugster]

Thanks ��

[Bob]

I’m going to try the injected epoxy method but I haven’t done it yet.

[Londoned]

Bob, same model. Same problem. Does not appear to be water damage. Center of floor at pivot point in front of cabinet and in front of bed. Indications are compressed foam due to insufficient and too wide distance between subfloor joists. Calling Dutchman for info on actual distance of joists. Our RV dealer says not covered by warranty. Most people reporting similar problems on this type of sandwich foam construction—-engineering defect because no one verified it would hold up to traffic. Expect to have to remove top layer woos subfloor and foam. Then add support and joists, add expanding foam around joists. Add new subfloor and then new flooring. Prefer to to use aluminum joists, bolt and weld,but some use wood 2x4. Hoping Dutchman can offer advice about floor structure with specs.

[JT and the Bugster]

Hoping to hear some good info. Floor is getting worse. Thanks, Jack.

[ArneLarsen]

Following...

['23 cross country]

Same model, same problem. How did the injection method work out for you?

[franktafl]

Originally Posted by JT and the Bugster

I wonder how the floor problem worked out? I too am having soft floor issues and thought over laying floor with 5/8” plywood screwed down then replacing flooring. Any comments appreciated.

How did you make out with your flooring issue. I have heard of lots of folks with this issue these days. For some reason, the foam between the layers of wood tends to give way and become springy. Unless the problem is caused by water intrusion (like my issue) it’s probably not going to bother anything except for the annoyance factor.

Frank

[Londoned]

Water leak from lack of flashing at wheel and fender skirts. Metal flexed out from screw at top center allowing water to run in and down wheel well. Viper barrier held water androtted bottom 1/8” layer of plywood fo about 9 feet. Had to rip out almost all the flooring from floor joist across from refrig back to joist in front of bed. Ripped out vapor barrier as well. Have spent 3 weeks removing cabinets back to refrig, dinette, and rear bed section. Added 2” angle iron, marine plywood sealed with flex steel liquid rubber and caulked sides, bottom, and every floor crack on top. Just started putting cabinets back in and will put down new flooring. Probably added 300# so no longer an ultralight but it is going to leak again. I’ m just hoping not to replace this section in my lifetime. If there had been a vapor barrier pooling the eater, floor might have held up longer. Good luck.

['23 cross country]

Londoned,
What intel do you have on the inner workings under the floor? I.e. how far apart were the original joists? Does it look easy to install extra joists by coming in from the bottom? Pics are greatly appreciated, as I am anxiously following your progress.

I think I may try to install extra joists to alleviate the floor sag until I have time and space to tear into the whole floor. Mine is sagging in front of the bed, as well as in front of the oven. Whatever damage I have is extensive. :-(
-'23 ccx

[Londoned]

One problem is the floor joists run side to side about where the stove meets frig and the next one is about 1/3 of the way beyond the foot of the bed. The joist is only 1.5 inches wide so you only have 3/4” to split between old floor and any joist you add to run lengthwise—a span of about 63” if I remember correctly. Way too much to support any plywood subfloor. My son is an architect with a lot of structural background. He suggested 2” galvanized angle iron joists running lengthwise with 24” spans for 2 Sections. 3rd section is wider but has outside I beam running lengthwise to help interrupt the span and angle iron parallel to outside wall. Had 2 outrigger braces added to support angle iron on bed end and there is a brace at the front fender well and outside wall to support other end of outside angle iron. Ripped out our flooring from the top but watch out for aluminum beam rung across side rto side in front of fender wells. Had to cut it out anyway. Our water damage was extensive too. Taking belly pan off looked too time consuming and required replacement with impact screws. Minimal wiring on wall sides recessed in foam layer in plastic conduit. Fresh water tank between wheel wells. A lot of work with oscillating saw to get 3/4” width on joists and working around obstacles. I am retired so labor is cheap. Estimate to repair was $5000-7000. I have about $200o in marine plywood, caulk, tools, angle iron and new flooring. Email londoned72@gnsil.com and I will send pictures

[franktafl]

The issue is generally not with the joists as it is with 3/16” wood they use with the styrofoam middle (that is your “insulation”) disintegrating or just giving way for whatever reason.

['23 cross country]

Originally Posted by franktafl

The issue is generally not with the joists as it is with 3/16” wood they use with the styrofoam middle (that is your “insulation”) disintegrating or just giving way for whatever reason.

This is most definitely rot, as Londoned described. The vapor barrier underneath the floor holds moisture against the bottom panel. My floor was more than just a little soft--it was sagging underfoot.

I removed the coroplast sheet from the bottom of my trailer to see what was going on. Joists only every 4' for the super thin plywood used in the styrofoam sandwich was simply not enough--even without the bottom panel rotting away. I slapped a sheet of 3/8" plywood up against the bottom and held in place by a few extra 1"x6" boards. That worked well in the high traffic area at the foot of the bed, but I couldn't do anything over the water tank. I'll just have to hope the water tank doesn't crack before I can get to a place where I can totally replace the floor.

[cdnred]

Older thread but hopefully I'll get some response. I just bought a 2003 Aerolite Cub Hybrid C195. I'm aware that Hybrids are known for water issues resulting in spongy floors. The floors throughout the trailer is solid but after getting it home I noticed that a small area in front of the shower/tub that the floor was a bit springy. Reading about floor construction above having a foam between the two wood layers disintegrating creating the springy action in the floor makes me wonder. I'm not sure if that type of construction was used back in 2003..?

For the size of the bathroom, I'm thinking that the easiest and cheapest fix would be to just cut some 1/2" marine plywood, lay it over the exist floor and then lay new tile down. Not sure if that would be a total or temp fix to the problem. From what I've read floor repairs could become a can of worms once you start tearing up the floor..

Anyone have any thoughts on my approach to this..?

[franktafl]

the foam was used to insulate the floor-cheap way of doing it, but it worked-sort of. They used 3/16 or 5/16 plywood to sandwich the insulation, and that was the floor. In the OLD days, what they used, is a mystery. Do you have an inspection hole under your shower to get at the plumbing? You could also pull the toilet to see what the floor is made of.

good luck!

[Cookie]

Two soft spots in ours in front of bathroom door and kitchen sink ... finally cut the lino to find that the issue is NOT the foam, but that the plywood seams are butted in between--instead of over-- the joists! The entire thing, no joist support on seams!

How does this get past inspection?

Had 3 RV flooring experts analyze, the only solution will be to lay plywood in opposite direction (lengthwise) then cover in new floor. This should hopefully provide enough strength.

This is insane. We bought it brand new and have meticulously cared for it. We already had to deal with no support under the shower and the cabinets not fastened properly to the wall, and the skylight leaking on first trip out, now this.

Do better with your inspections please Dutchmen!

[Bob]

This is what I did and it worked. https://youtu.be/W51PODL6QSs?si=ouvsbJxAg4H26W5j