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Old 03-22-2015, 01:36 PM   #1
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2015 Dutchman denali

I can't find the hot water heater bypass on my 325rL
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Old 03-22-2015, 04:18 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Chuckhayden73 View Post
I can't find the hot water heater bypass on my 325rL
Have you looked at the back side of the water heater? It is entirely possible that you may not have one. It was listed in the "mandatory option" (talk about an oxymoron!) on my Coleman.

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Old 03-22-2015, 07:48 PM   #3
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I'm using logical deduction here..
I see that the water heater is in the front pass through storage area. There might be a access panel where the back of the water heater is in the storage area or maybe under the bed. If not, try turning your water pump on and find where that is and try there. It could be under the bathroom sink.
I know that the bypass was standard on the 2014 Denali's, but since they did a major change for the 2015 year, it is possible that there isn't one. Check your paperwork. I just looked at the Denali web site and it didn't mention that it was a option, but that doesn't mean anything.
Looks like a very nice TT. I like the layout and would have been interested in that model, but it just a little to heavy for my 1/2 ton truck.
Just out of curiosity, I noticed that they no longer mention anything about the insulation of the trailer. One of the selling points on the 2014 models was that it has R40 in the ceiling and floor. Do they still have that?


FWIW my bypass valve are directly behind the water heater. You have to access them by pulling out a draw under the stove. The water pump is located in the same place.
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Old 03-22-2015, 07:58 PM   #4
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FWIW on my Coleman, you have to remove the cushions from the dinette and remove a screwed down panel to get to the bypass valves. Makes complete sense... NOT! I am going to A) cut a finger hole in the panel and B) install it with Velcro, along with the access panel to the water pump.

I would try and track the plumbing down to where it enters the water heater and see if there are any valves nearby.

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Old 03-22-2015, 09:12 PM   #5
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One of the selling points on the 2014 models was that it has R40 in the ceiling and floor. Do they still have that?

Really R40? How can one achieve an R40 rating with a ceiling no thicker than 3/4 of an inch? I think anyone that has pulled an A/C unit will question this as well. The floor is the same, pull a floor register and see how thick it is and what insulating material is there. No mention of this now is probably a good thing. The all weather package is another joke on the consumer when Dutchman doesn't recommend the RV be used with temperatures near freezing.

Must be some space age proprietary secret only Dutchman has.
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Old 03-23-2015, 12:50 AM   #6
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Chuck, I have to remove a panel in my storage area to access the back of the water heater to have access to the bypass.
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Old 03-27-2015, 01:57 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by sundancer 87 View Post
One of the selling points on the 2014 models was that it has R40 in the ceiling and floor. Do they still have that?

Really R40? How can one achieve an R40 rating with a ceiling no thicker than 3/4 of an inch? I think anyone that has pulled an A/C unit will question this as well. The floor is the same, pull a floor register and see how thick it is and what insulating material is there. No mention of this now is probably a good thing. The all weather package is another joke on the consumer when Dutchman doesn't recommend the RV be used with temperatures near freezing.

Must be some space age proprietary secret only Dutchman has.
Sundancer, I am not sure if you were slamming me or Dutchmen.. So here is the literature.

It may not really be R40, but my travel trailer is insulated better then most other ones I have been in.
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Old 03-27-2015, 03:50 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by sundancer 87 View Post
The all weather package is another joke on the consumer when Dutchman doesn't recommend the RV be used with temperatures near freezing.
Must be some space age proprietary secret only Dutchman has.
I agree, no way that roof is R40.(in no way a shot at the op) All weather, means all weather above 32F to Dutchman. Mine supposedly has an "enclosed" and insulated underbelly, when I pulled the access cover to fix my busted spray valve fitting I could see daylight in every direction. You can see all the weather from the inside, that's a fact.
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Old 03-27-2015, 09:59 AM   #9
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A proper R-40 would require an 11" thick bat of fiberglass, uncompressed. In addition for it to be fully effective you would have to tape joints and make sure there were no gaps in it. Somehow I don't see Dutchmen being able to do it. For polystyrene you would need a similar depth amount, for expanded about 8", again with taped joints for it to be fully effective.

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Old 03-27-2015, 12:59 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by EricNSTL View Post
Sundancer, I am not sure if you were slamming me or Dutchmen.. So here is the literature.

It may not really be R40, but my travel trailer is insulated better then most other ones I have been in.
I will flame the manufacturer before I'll flame a member.

I probably have a nice shiny brochure around here somewhere that says all kinds of things, even several R factor ratings.
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Old 03-12-2016, 10:36 PM   #11
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Would you happen to know if your Aerolite is insulated between the front cap and the bedroom wall?????
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Old 03-29-2016, 09:03 PM   #12
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I have a 2015 Denali 297RLX and you have to take off a panel under the kitchen counter to access the hot water bi-pass.
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