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Old 04-20-2016, 01:06 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Helidriver View Post
So I have been out looking at all 3 -- for outside looks the winner is ford - for inside is the ram and its electronic package - seats in the gmc looked really comfy . Honestly I really don't want a dually but if I want a 20k voltage I need the dually . I hear towing with a dually is the cats meow - but can't see myself just driving around in town in dually like I do my 2500 ram . If a SRW 3500 could handle 18,000 might be able to compromise .
Yep thats a tough call.

my 2011 had all the rear diff combo available so i went with 3.73. Plenty of power.

New truck only offer 3.42 with SRW. 3.73 and 4.10 in DRW only.Most probbaly due to new J standard that requires payload to match towing specs. Being limited in payload it doesn't really make sense for them to offer 3.73 and 4.10 on the SRW.

That being said i towed my 18K 3600 with the SRW without any issue. The only difference from my perspective is the lateral stability. Pulls the same and stops the same. My SRW had 33inch 3750 pounds tires and air bags to level it.

You can always change the diff ratio to 3.73 or 4.10 to pull but it wont increase the stock payload.

Given new RAM give you 4380lbs and 17000lbs of towing capacity with the 3.42 you'd be pretty close but maxed out. You could always replace the rear end for 4.10 and get a 4380 payload capacity and about 25000-30000 towing capacity. The additional rating on the ram is provided by the larger cover with cooling fins. In 2016 they increased the carrier gear size to get to that 32000lbs.
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Old 04-20-2016, 01:08 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by hopkins44 View Post

NO FORDS ... think this is a given..
they have the most major problems, had the most engine changes, most expensive truck to buy- yet the cheapest to buy used, need to pull the cab to work on the motor.....
And I won't buy Chevy's after having to replace an entire fleet's worth of injectors on Duramax diesels at just over 100k, conveniently out of warranty. Most of my 7.3 Fords ran well over 200k before we even had to look at the injectors. Then then there were the 7 Chevy 1500s that had to have complete front end rebuilds due to crap parts that Chevy was using in the early 2000 model years. We managed to get 4 of those covered under the warranty, we were on the hook for the others. I currently have 3 Chevy trucks sitting at the dealer waiting on warranty work on the electrical systems, that is costing me money every day they sit. They don't have loaners for heavy duty trucks.

Every manufacturer has issues, you just have to decide which ones you are willing to deal with. In our shop the Fords typically had the lowest overall maintenance costs with Dodge running a very close second. My personal trucks have been Fords since the 1970's and I have been well served by them. I have driven several to over 300k miles with nothing more than routine maintenance and the occasional wear out item. Haven't ever been that lucky with a Chevy. Never had a Dodge long enough to get that kind of miles on them. Only Dodge on my property at the moment is a 1984 D300 farm truck, doesn't get used much because it is a fuel hog, usually take the 96 PSD which has somewhere north of 600,000 don't know for sure the odometer broke years back and is stuck at 490k.

Aaron
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Old 04-20-2016, 01:16 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by HudsonFrog View Post
Yep thats a tough call.

my 2011 had all the rear diff combo available so i went with 3.73. Plenty of power.

New truck only offer 3.42 with SRW. 3.73 and 4.10 in DRW only.Most probbaly due to new J standard that requires payload to match towing specs. Being limited in payload it doesn't really make sense for them to offer 3.73 and 4.10 on the SRW.

That being said i towed my 18K 3600 with the SRW without any issue. The only difference from my perspective is the lateral stability. Pulls the same and stops the same. My SRW had 33inch 3750 pounds tires and air bags to level it.

You can always change the diff ratio to 3.73 or 4.10 to pull but it wont increase the stock payload.

Given new RAM give you 4380lbs and 17000lbs of towing capacity with the 3.42 you'd be pretty close but maxed out. You could always replace the rear end for 4.10 and get a 4380 payload capacity and about 25000-30000 towing capacity. The additional rating on the ram is provided by the larger cover with cooling fins. In 2016 they increased the carrier gear size to get to that 32000lbs.
Now my 2500 in the about 1000 pounds over GVW .. Most. 3500 even with Aisin tranny with SRW say 16,700 ish .. Towing . So even if I went to a v3805 that would put me at 18k so about 1400 pounds over towing . Better to be over GVW or towing ?? I know neither is best
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Old 04-20-2016, 03:08 AM   #24
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I have a toyhauler that has a gross of 16500 . It is double axle and I just put Sailun s637 14 ply tires on it. Pin is between 2800 and 2600 depending on garage load.
Last weekend with the kids dirt bikes and 60 gallons of water and regular cargo I was 14400
Gross on my voltage 3305.
I think if you look ar gvwr trailers in 18-20 k you need dually no mater what brand. IMO
Getting really big for any brand SRW.
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Old 04-20-2016, 03:57 AM   #25
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I have a toyhauler that has a gross of 16500 . It is double axle and I just put Sailun s637 14 ply tires on it. Pin is between 2800 and 2600 depending on garage load.
Last weekend with the kids dirt bikes and 60 gallons of water and regular cargo I was 14400
Gross on my voltage 3305.
I think if you look ar gvwr trailers in 18-20 k you need dually no mater what brand. IMO
Getting really big for any brand SRW.
I also have the v3305 and currently using a 2500 Cummins rated to tow 17,200 which is great but I'm over GVW . But I'm thinking about going bigger . So I need a do all truck - sounds like dually
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Old 04-20-2016, 11:59 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Helidriver View Post
I also have the v3305 and currently using a 2500 Cummins rated to tow 17,200 which is great but I'm over GVW . But I'm thinking about going bigger . So I need a do all truck - sounds like dually
The dually will make your towing experience so much better, no matter what brand you chose. For me, towing the 3305 has gone from "aiming" it down the road with the 2500, to "driving" it with complete control and confidence. Of course my old 2008, 2500 was grossly over the max weight limits, not rated as good as the newer ones. My 3500 is my daily driver and it's really not that big of a deal, parking lots are always quite empty where I park.
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Old 04-20-2016, 04:06 PM   #27
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I think you will make a wise decision going dually in your case going to that big a new rig. That 17000 plus tow rating is sort of bogus when it comes to RV towing.


I did a lot of research when I went for my current toyhauler. I am also on trailer number four so I know some but still learning.
I wanted to keep under 40 feet and preferred a double axle as apposed to triple. Also wanted to keep trailer gross around 16-16.r k as I know with my SRW I like a bit of a buffer. All these trucks will tow the big rigs with ease but the handling in all conditions was big for me.
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