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Old 08-23-2018, 12:40 AM   #1
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Leaky Window Help!

We had REALLY heavy rains the last week. I found a huge puddle of water in the garage of my 2015 3970 Voltage. I got it all cleaned up and dried out. Then we had heavy rains again a few days later and I found the leak coming from the bottom of the window. The point in the picture is where it is coming in from. The frame is completely dry inside the window and I can find no moisture anywhere else except where indicated.

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So, Can I fix this myself? Do I have to remove the window to fix it? What type of windows do I have? are there any videos to help me with the process or any instructiions? I saw some people are using Butyl tape to replace the seal. Is that the recommended fix? Any advice would be fine.
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Old 08-23-2018, 12:59 AM   #2
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Our voltage triton had same problem after a few months after purchase. I was in doing stuff during a heavy Florida rain I saw the same from mine as yours the windows are put in with a seal if the seal is not installed right the rain will weep in.dutchmen would not cover the window seals in the warranty I resealed all my windows from the outside with aircraft grade sealant adhesive no more leaks. I would suggest to any new rv owner check this stuff seal your windows trust yourself not the manufacturer Hope this helps Alll our best largo fla
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Old 08-23-2018, 01:01 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Rhoadzie View Post
We had REALLY heavy rains the last week. I found a huge puddle of water in the garage of my 2015 3970 Voltage. I got it all cleaned up and dried out. Then we had heavy rains again a few days later and I found the leak coming from the bottom of the window. The point in the picture is where it is coming in from. The frame is completely dry inside the window and I can find no moisture anywhere else except where indicated.

Attachment 4946

So, Can I fix this myself? Do I have to remove the window to fix it? What type of windows do I have? are there any videos to help me with the process or any instructiions? I saw some people are using Butyl tape to replace the seal. Is that the recommended fix? Any advice would be fine.

You can remove the window by removing the screen, the crank handle if it has one and all the screws. Have a helper on the outside in case it wants to slip out.
You may have to use a putty knife to break it loose and then remove. There may be centering spacers on the sides or bottom of the window, take a photo or remember where they are.
The gray Butyl tape works very good. It's sticky and will stick to you so you'll want to unroll a short section at a time to place it in the channel. A cool day is a good day to mess with it because it's not as likely to tear. You might want to refrigerate the roll the night before to make it easier with which to work.


When you have the window out look for the serial number of it. That way you can find a replacement if necessary.
Align the window carefully in preparation to installation. It will stick where you put it so this is important.

Put the window back in the hole with the spacers if you have them. Lightly screw it down using a cross tightening pattern. Don't go around the frame screw by screw, but instead tighten the opposite corners first and then work towards the middle tightening from side to side.
You may want to go outside and trim any ooze from the tape. Go back in and tighten the screws again. Check for the ooze and trim if necessary, a putty knife will work or a carton knife. Be careful of knife slippage so you don't cut yourself or the gel coat.
Let the window set for a day and tighten the screws again, this time you can follow the the perimeter of the frame. Outside again to trim the tape.
You can use two layers of tape but since it will be sealing a nice flat surface one layer will work. A slight overlap is needed at the butt joints to ensure a closed loop of the tape.


Now for the hard part, that's cleaning the perimeter of the window on the outside. Alcohol will work for this.
It's not that hard to do if you go slow and feed the tape in the channel so you have a good seal.
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Old 08-23-2018, 01:02 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Ovalvw View Post
Our voltage triton had same problem after a few months after purchase. I was in doing stuff during a heavy Florida rain I saw the same from mine as yours the windows are put in with a seal if the seal is not installed right the rain will weep in.dutchmen would not cover the window seals in the warranty I resealed all my windows from the outside with aircraft grade sealant adhesive no more leaks. I would suggest to any new rv owner check this stuff seal your windows trust yourself not the manufacturer Hope this helps Alll our best largo fla
Where did you get the sealant? Did you have to remove the windows to install the new sealant? Are yours FRAMELESS windows?
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Old 08-23-2018, 01:07 AM   #5
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what size butyl tape? I see it comes in various widths.
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Old 08-23-2018, 01:13 AM   #6
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what size butyl tape? I see it comes in various widths.

3/4 or 1 inch. I don't exactly remember but it won't be much wider than the inside frame.



I can measure the tape I used tomorrow if I can remember where I stored it.
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Old 08-27-2018, 02:31 AM   #7
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3/4 or 1 inch?
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Old 08-27-2018, 03:18 AM   #8
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3/4 or 1 inch?





https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT-1834.../dp/B001FCB4JS
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Old 08-27-2018, 10:35 AM   #9
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I use both depending on what I have on hand...

However 3/4" is probably the best bet. You will have a small bit squeeze out when you snug the windows up, just clean it off with a plastic scraper and a bit of mineral spirits.

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Old 08-27-2018, 11:28 AM   #10
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a roll of butyl tape should be in everyone's tool kit. Problem is storing the stuff, comes in a large flat roll and can get very messy if not placed on wax paper. BUT, I use it for everything I fasten to my RV instead of Silicone (sillycone).
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Old 08-27-2018, 11:33 AM   #11
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Make sure you also store it flat!
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Old 08-27-2018, 12:32 PM   #12
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Make sure you also store it flat!
that conjures up an image
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Old 08-27-2018, 05:41 PM   #13
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leaking window

I have a 2007 dutchman sport lite 25 ft and had a problem with a leak around the window. i had caulked the outside of the window frame very well and still had leak. turns out the water was getting in though the glass and the frame which required me to remove the whole window and frame. Lay it on the ground very carefully and then with a utility knife remove the caulk that held the glass in and replace the Window Glazing. It was actually easy once I figured out the problem but it takes two people to get the whole frame out and back in. One inside to unscrew the screws that hold the window frame in and one outside to make the window frame does not fall out. Be carefull with the glass as it will break fairly easy. It is not like car glass. When putting the frame back in i used caulk and then screwed the frame back in. Not a hard job and it fixed my problem.
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Old 08-30-2018, 04:22 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhoadzie View Post
We had REALLY heavy rains the last week. I found a huge puddle of water in the garage of my 2015 3970 Voltage. I got it all cleaned up and dried out. Then we had heavy rains again a few days later and I found the leak coming from the bottom of the window. The point in the picture is where it is coming in from. The frame is completely dry inside the window and I can find no moisture anywhere else except where indicated.

Attachment 4946

So, Can I fix this myself? Do I have to remove the window to fix it? What type of windows do I have? are there any videos to help me with the process or any instructiions? I saw some people are using Butyl tape to replace the seal. Is that the recommended fix? Any advice would be fine.
So I just got done replacing a 3 X 5" section of my garage floor from a leak in the big garage window that never showed water on the floor. It was all sucked in through and down the wall then into the stand board floor. I firmly believe this had been leaking sinsw I bought the unit 5 years ago,

I had replaced the window sealant last month. This was no small feat. A 2 person job. First you need to remove the frame and the crap Dutchman uses for sealant. But before you do, the window hole cut in the wall is so slip shod and out of square, you must dry fit and mark your window to ensure all the gaps between the window frame and wall hole are covered. While dry fitting, I used 2 small squares of the tape to make a resting spot for the bottom and side of the window. This actually required a 3rd person. Once in place the frame was reattached keeping a close eye on covering all the gaps. Hope this helps
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Old 08-30-2018, 09:47 AM   #15
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I wide blue painters tape to hold the exterior window in place while removing the interior clamping ring. However it does go easier with two people, especially on a larger window.

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Old 08-30-2018, 02:53 PM   #16
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I Have the same Problem

I also have a garage floor that is ruined, and the damage extends under the banquet. Unfortunately, my TT sat without any attention while leaking. I read that the problem was a window leak but didn't act on it since I couldn't see any evidence of water leakage. I was still trying to find out where the water was coming, but I don't see any new wet spots. I appreciate everyone's comments - I have the butyl tape, so now I will go ahead and pull the window and re-seal as part of the floor repair.
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Old 08-30-2018, 03:44 PM   #17
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I also have a garage floor that is ruined, and the damage extends under the banquet. Unfortunately, my TT sat without any attention while leaking. I read that the problem was a window leak but didn't act on it since I couldn't see any evidence of water leakage. I was still trying to find out where the water was coming, but I don't see any new wet spots. I appreciate everyone's comments - I have the butyl tape, so now I will go ahead and pull the window and re-seal as part of the floor repair.
Find your leak by having someone spray a water hose on the outside. Don't forget to check the seam where the roof meets the walls and all the way around windows. Also if there are any slide outs in the area, check seal placement on those.
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Old 09-01-2018, 02:45 PM   #18
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DAP Black Caulking 101

My 2014 3605 HAD 3 leaky windows. Gorilla tape sticks in the rain and putting it on got me through the rains. Duragloss 501 Marine and RV Polish and Cleaner got the residual tape goo off from around my windows. Worked great for the rest of my rig also. Back to the leak. I'm a home remodeler and I use DAP Tub and Tile caulk for many sealant applications. I was sure it would work here. I got the size that goes in the small caulking gun. The stuff cleans up with water is flexible when cured and sticks to anything. Don't get it with silicon, use plain black caulk. Get an old t-shirt (a fine weave cloth for wiping at the window), paper towels for keeping your hands dry. a bucket of water, a ladder, and a loaded caulking gun with the caulk. Maybe some music for fun. Snip a SMALL hole the size of a ball point pen tip on an angle then with pliers squeeze the tip into a chisel point so it can slide in the small outside grove where the window frame meets the fiberglass siding. It's a small bead you squeeze in there. Gently squeeze the gun and run the tip in the groove quickly and in long runs. go around the windows. If you need to wipe off any over runs use the t-shirt just lightly damp pulled tight to your finger and wipe leaving caulk in the grove. Rinse and repeat wiping as necessary keeping that small bead in the grove. Keep your hands dry with the paper towels. Skinned in a few minutes cured in 24 hours. One window done now do the others that need it. This worked for me on three windows and it's fixed for a long time. LET IT RAIN.
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Old 09-01-2018, 07:43 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by 3605dave View Post
My 2014 3605 HAD 3 leaky windows. Gorilla tape sticks in the rain and putting it on got me through the rains. Duragloss 501 Marine and RV Polish and Cleaner got the residual tape goo off from around my windows. Worked great for the rest of my rig also. Back to the leak. I'm a home remodeler and I use DAP Tub and Tile caulk for many sealant applications. I was sure it would work here. I got the size that goes in the small caulking gun. The stuff cleans up with water is flexible when cured and sticks to anything. Don't get it with silicon, use plain black caulk. Get an old t-shirt (a fine weave cloth for wiping at the window), paper towels for keeping your hands dry. a bucket of water, a ladder, and a loaded caulking gun with the caulk. Maybe some music for fun. Snip a SMALL hole the size of a ball point pen tip on an angle then with pliers squeeze the tip into a chisel point so it can slide in the small outside grove where the window frame meets the fiberglass siding. It's a small bead you squeeze in there. Gently squeeze the gun and run the tip in the groove quickly and in long runs. go around the windows. If you need to wipe off any over runs use the t-shirt just lightly damp pulled tight to your finger and wipe leaving caulk in the grove. Rinse and repeat wiping as necessary keeping that small bead in the grove. Keep your hands dry with the paper towels. Skinned in a few minutes cured in 24 hours. One window done now do the others that need it. This worked for me on three windows and it's fixed for a long time. LET IT RAIN.



You did not mention how long ago you performed this operation.
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Old 09-02-2018, 12:54 PM   #20
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No I did not remove the windows I cleaned it with Rubbing alcohol and sealed around all the windows Aircraft grade adhesive sealant while I was at it I also removed and re-sealed all my hatches doors frames if you look at the sealant they use you can rub your fingers on it and it flakes off also I'm a big believer in damp rid in the bags hang one up somewhere you'll be amazed at how much humidity it pulls out of the inside of the camper. good sealant is like oil everybody has their own opinions on what to use.get what's best for you it's a bummer we have to do these are new campers oh well. All our best from Florida
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