Jacking the TT - Dutchmen Owners

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Old 04-20-2016, 05:27 PM   #1
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Jacking the TT

The question may sound silly but what is the best way the jack a TT of the ground?

I want to check all my suspension bushing and replace them with neverlube teflon bushing, repack all the bearings and have the wheels balanced.

I don't want to twist the frame while jacking it.

How do you do it?

I was thinking of using a jack bottle near the suspension link, put a stand and repeat for all four corners.

My TT is a 2014 240 BHSL.

Thanks for your help.
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Old 04-20-2016, 10:01 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gadou View Post
The question may sound silly but what is the best way the jack a TT of the ground?

I want to check all my suspension bushing and replace them with neverlube teflon bushing, repack all the bearings and have the wheels balanced.

I don't want to twist the frame while jacking it.

How do you do it?

I was thinking of using a jack bottle near the suspension link, put a stand and repeat for all four corners.

My TT is a 2014 240 BHSL.

Thanks for your help.
That works, it's better if you use two jacks and raise the front and rear together.

Personally I wouldn't use anything but a wet bolt kit. The shackles are 2 1/2 times the thickness of the cheap crap the factory uses.

Once you get into it, you'll probably find that the bolts and shackles are already getting worn and just putting new bushings in won't solve much if they are worn.
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Old 04-21-2016, 10:00 AM   #3
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hydraulic stabilizer bent

sorry if diverting topic but was trying to find an appropriate place to post this. Most threads on jacks I found were referring to the auto level system and some of its nuances. I was on unlevel ground and though I have hooked and unhooked with my DRW F350 companion hitch many times, it was an unfortunate happening to bend my right rear stabilizer extension tube (the silver thing that comes out of the jack). I have not found out the manufacturer yet but Lippert posted a replacement tutorial but am not sure it fits my specific jack or situation. In order to move the rig as I could not retract and could not travel with it like it was, I cut off the tube thinking that it was hollow inside. Turned out to be solid and took a little more effort than planned to cut through the solid metal. Rig finally hooked up with pain and suffering and took it to the dealer. Yes, I did consider fixing it myself, but pictured one of my projects and spraying hydraulic fluid everywhere. The dealer unofficially said if replacing the jack, roughly $3900+ parts alone. Ouch, has anybody replaced just the solid tube inside the actual jack. if so, how. sorry no time for the picture of the cut cylinder tube but Ill try later. I have not approved repairs so any response or referral would be great.

sorry late on saying so but its a 2015 Voltage 3200. I think some of the '12 - '14 may have the electric jacks still on and not sure same material.
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Old 04-21-2016, 11:09 AM   #4
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Thanks for the info Jim.

I'll borrow another jack bottle and have my DW help with this.

I'll look into a wet bolt kit as well.

Thanks again!
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Old 04-21-2016, 12:32 PM   #5
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Wil, wow hope you had a sawsall with a metal cutting blade to cut that cylinder ram off!! I can't believe it would cost $3900. You can unbolt that hydraulic jack from the frame, probably the easiest and cheapest route would be to buy that one jack componet and bolt it back on. I've had to replace all the hoses on my system and I left the rv hooked up to the pickup with the jacks up and that relieves the pressure in the system. Then you can disconnect the hoses on the bad jack, change out the fittings, hook the hydraulic hoses back up and run the system. Run it a couple times to force all the air out the add more fluid to the resivoir, I believe it is ATF transmission fluid.

I use tons of hydraulic cylinders on the farm, we used to be able to repair cylinders with a new ram and seal repair kit but lately they have quit doing that and make you buy the whole new cylinder. I paid $800 for a new large one last year.

Doug
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Old 04-21-2016, 01:19 PM   #6
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Wil, I went on Lipperts web site and found your hydraulic jack with the hardware for 493.00, that $3900 must have been for the whole level up system. It shouldn't take your dealer over an hour to replace that jack. Don't let that dealer rip you off! Hope this helps you.
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Old 04-21-2016, 04:45 PM   #7
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Wil,

I would talk to a shop that specializes in hydraulic systems. They should be able to determine if your jack can be repaired. If it can't be repaired, they can most likely replace it for a lot less than $3900.

Doug has nailed it, there is a reason people call them "Stealerships".

Just about everything that is used in the construction of an RV can be sourced outside of the RV industry and it pays to shop around some. Anything that is unique to the RV industry can be found online at a pretty significant discount.
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Old 04-22-2016, 04:57 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by gadou View Post
Thanks for the info Jim.

I'll borrow another jack bottle and have my DW help with this.

I'll look into a wet bolt kit as well.

Thanks again!
I meant to add the link for the kit I used. Pretty big difference in the shackles.

Heavy Duty Shackle Kit Upgrade - MORryde Products
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