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Old 05-22-2018, 12:01 PM   #1
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I need AC thermostat help

Okay. So when I purchase my RV the AC would run fine, but you had to turn it on manually through the thermostat. If you put it on auto and set the temperature it wouldn’t come on. I verified the wiring was correct from the unit to the thermostat. I also verified the thermostat wiring to the unit was functional by using a jumper wire to send a signal to the ac, fan etc. They all worked fine when jumped. I figured the thermostat was bad and ordered the replacement one below. It did not work with my unit. There was also a sticker on the box that said it was only for use with a certain transformer. I am in a bit of a time crunch and want to get a simple thermostat that will work. It only needs to run cooling since there is a separate thermostat for the furnace. Can I use a simple residential thermostat from a hardware store? See the pics below of the thermostat I purchased and the model number of the AC I have.


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Old 05-25-2018, 12:31 AM   #2
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Here is the update. I ended up going and purchasing a Honeywell Digital thermostat for $20 at Home Depot. I made sure I got one that would run on batteries since house systems are 24v and the trailer runs on a 12v circuit. Thought jumping different wires from the red one I was able to identify which controlled the different functions of the AC. From there it was pretty simple to wire up the thermostat so it functioned properly. The only small issue I currently have is that my AC unit has a low and hi fan setting, while the thermostat only has a fan on and off setting. I currently have it wired so whenever the thermostat calls for fan it is always on high. I will have to add a small toggle switch at some point to be able to select low or high, but for right now it works fine. Glad to get it going since it is supposed to be almost 90* this weekend and being able to relax in the AC between games is a huge draw. Looks like I will get to thuroughly test out the new thermostat as well as my New EasyStart and generator setup.


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Old 07-28-2018, 11:54 PM   #3
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any up date to this, I am troubleshooting my non compressor start up,, it is 113 inside the trailer..
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Old 07-29-2018, 05:18 PM   #4
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any up date to this, I am troubleshooting my non compressor start up,, it is 113 inside the trailer..


Sorry for the delay. I was out of signal for the weekend.

Yes, I got mine working. From your statement it sounds like fan is running, but no compressor, correct?

1. Jump the wires at the thermostat to eliminate that from the equation. It is usually the red and yellow wires. If it runs this way, then it is the thermostat.
2. Jump the wires at the ac unit. These results will eliminate your thermostat wiring.
3. Check for voltage going from the circuit board to the compressor. This will eliminate your board.
4. From there it is either the start capacitor or the compressor. The capacitor is cheap and easy to replace. For the compressor it could be out of low on freon. If there is a low pressure switch on the compressor you can bypass it to see if it runs then.


Hope this helps.
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Old 07-29-2018, 06:34 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Jayro88 View Post
Sorry for the delay. I was out of signal for the weekend.

Yes, I got mine working. From your statement it sounds like fan is running, but no compressor, correct?

1. Jump the wires at the thermostat to eliminate that from the equation. It is usually the red and yellow wires. If it runs this way, then it is the thermostat.
2. Jump the wires at the ac unit. These results will eliminate your thermostat wiring.
3. Check for voltage going from the circuit board to the compressor. This will eliminate your board.
4. From there it is either the start capacitor or the compressor. The capacitor is cheap and easy to replace. For the compressor it could be out of low on freon. If there is a low pressure switch on the compressor you can bypass it to see if it runs then.







Hope this helps.
Jump the wires at the ac unit. These results will eliminate your thermostat wiring.


How would one safely go about doing this?
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Old 07-29-2018, 07:11 PM   #6
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Jump the wires at the ac unit. These results will eliminate your thermostat wiring.


How would one safely go about doing this?


If you pull the panel inside the trailer the thermostat working should be connected to the unit. Many times they are wire nutted to the wiring on the unit, or sometimes they connect to the circuit board with screws.....just like at the thermostat.

Mine uses wire nuts. Just undo the wire nuts for the red “R” wire and jump it to the one that calls for AC.....usually the yellow “Y” one. This should cause the compressor to kick on. You should also year a relay click. I use a wire with alligator clips on each end. It doesn’t need to be heavy wire since it really doesn’t vary any current. It just sends the signal to close the relay.

You can double check the wiring diagram to make sure of the wires.

Some units have a 5 minute delay for the compressor to cycle, so take that into account.
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Old 07-29-2018, 08:31 PM   #7
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Read the quote again. Jump the wires at the ac unit.
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Old 07-29-2018, 09:10 PM   #8
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Read the quote again. Jump the wires at the ac unit.


Maybe I am not understanding the question. The thermostat wires run back from the thermostat to the ac unit. They connect to the circuit board in the of the unit. Mine just wire nut to wires that come out of the side of the internal control box. (See pic) Others may have the thermostat wire run in to the control box and connect to the circuit board inside. By jumping the wires at the circuit board instead of the other (thermostat end) end of the wiring you are eliminating and broken or grounded thermostat wiring. I am not overly familiar with all the RV wiring layouts, my experience is with home units.Click image for larger version

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I don’t believe any RV units have relays that you are able to manually push in, so you can’t test that. My circuit board (sorry no pic) has labels on the wires coming off of it post relay that says hi fan, low fan etc etc. you can check voltage at these wires while making the call for AC. If you are getting voltage out, then the board likely is not your issue. After that would be your start capacitor. To access it you will need to get on the roof and remove the cover. On my unit is it the black vertical cylinder on the left of the wiring on the roof top unit.
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Old 07-29-2018, 09:12 PM   #9
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Unfortunately I am having trouble posting the pic of my start capacitor.
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Old 07-29-2018, 09:20 PM   #10
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Home ac units and car units many times have low pressure switches. If the unit is low enough on refrigerant then these open and don’t allow the compressor to run. If there is one it is usually built into one or the Freon lines going into or out of the compressor. If this is causing the issue then there should be power coming in one side but not coming out the other. You can temporarily jump the switch with a wire to see if the compressor will then kick on. If it does then you are either low or the switch is bad.

Come to think of it, most fairly new home units have an led on the circuit board that will flash codes to tell you what is keeping it from running. I don’t know if RV unit have this feature on the circuit board, but if it does it could really help u pinpoint the issue.
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Old 07-29-2018, 10:03 PM   #11
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I'm just pointing out the suggestion to jump the wires at the A/C. In other words remove all the wires from the three pins on the compressor. Connect the common wire where it goes and the load wire where it goes. Then jump the last remaining pin to the load wire. The motor has two windings, one for starting and one for running. The quick jump to the start winding will get the compressor running if it's good.


I know you that's not what you meant
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Old 07-29-2018, 10:07 PM   #12
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I'm just pointing out the suggestion to jump the wires at the A/C. In other words remove all the wires from the three pins on the compressor. Connect the common wire where it goes and the load wire where it goes. Then jump the last remaining pin to the load wire. The motor has two windings, one for starting and one for running. The quick jump to the start winding will get the compressor running if it's good.


I know you that's not what you meant


I see, I was getting really confused. .....
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Old 07-29-2018, 10:14 PM   #13
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I see, I was getting really confused. .....

Didn't mean to confuse you, just didn't want someone to read the suggestion the wrong way and actually do it as suggested.
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Old 07-29-2018, 10:16 PM   #14
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Didn't mean to confuse you, just didn't want someone to read the suggestion the wrong way and actually do it as suggested.


Well, I did say at the AC unit and not the actual compressor........although I do see how it could be taken as “jump the power for the compressor “
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