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Old 05-21-2017, 12:08 PM   #1
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Dip switch on 3990

Anyone have a picture or can get one of the middle AC circuit breaker and circuit board for me please? Have never had the Middle #1 working since i bought this 2014 used and have tried everything I can think of. Power to the board, fan runs no power to blue wire on compressor. Getting warmer, probably will need 3 AC's soon. Any help appreciated.

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Old 05-21-2017, 04:20 PM   #2
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the circuit breaker should be able to be checked with a VOM tester.. the board I have no idea where to buy it but I know a place that can repair it. They specialize in repairing all circuit boards..if interested let me know and i will post their name.
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Old 05-21-2017, 10:38 PM   #3
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I am assuming you meant center A/C not working. This is likely the Dometic Brisk II 15k. You can get model number from roof top without taking cover off, sticker is visible through slats.

The wiring diagram for that model shows 3 wires to compressor. White (connected to R or Run circuit of compressor). Red (connected to S or Start circuit of compressor). Blue (connected to O/L overload and C common connection).

The O/L could be a push button reset on compressor. And could have triggered during a mis start at some point. I have not had one of these apart so I do not know how accessible this O/L switch is. It may be as simple as that. If reset and trips again, compressor could be "locked" up or a problem with Start/Run capacitor switching portion of circuit.
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Old 05-21-2017, 10:53 PM   #4
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Let me clarify, sorry. The Middle AC does not work. The compressor is not getting power on the blue wire as you say. I have power coming in on the black wire on the CONTROL BOARD not circuit board. I bought this coach used and don't think it was ever used based on somethings I have already fixed/repaired. I suspected the main board and got a mobile RV guy to come out and he gave me a used circuit board. I flipped dip switch 7 on all others off as that was the same as the one I took out. That did not work either. Same symptoms no power to compressor. I just want to make sure the DIP SWITCHES on the CONTROL BOARD are correct. Yes, it is a 15k Dometic.

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Old 05-21-2017, 10:59 PM   #5
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I found a service manual and parts breakdown.

The O/L is Part #3100250.384

It does not appear to be push button reset. I don't know of a supply source. If they insist on whole compressor, the R-410a will have to be evacuated and recharged. That means brazing the connections off / on, etc. In commercial sector best practice is also to use nitrogen while brazing, not using produces oxidation particles.
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Old 05-21-2017, 11:24 PM   #6
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Mobile tech swears it isn't compressor, i agree. We have no voltage to it yet to check. Hence ckt board dip switch thread. He says nobody does compressor they swap out entire unit as it is a closed system. Im just not convinced it is the unit compressor or circuit board.

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Old 05-21-2017, 11:51 PM   #7
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[QUOTE=CSCLARK;51821]Mobile tech swears it isn't compressor, i agree. We have no voltage to it yet to check. Hence ckt board dip switch thread. He says nobody does compressor they swap out entire unit as it is a closed system. Im just not convinced it is the unit compressor or circuit board.

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Why not bypass the blue wire from the control/circuit board? The blue is voltage so voltage can be had before it reaches the control/circuit board. Source voltage from another source and stick it to the A/C just to verify compressor start up and run.
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Old 05-22-2017, 12:22 AM   #8
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http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ccc5.pdf


Page 5 has dip switch settings. Sry can't paste it direct.

I agree that compressor is likely good. The O/L is basically a thermal time delay fuse.

Dip switches. These are there so unit can be used in other vehicles. 1 is heat strip, 2-4 indicate what zone its in. 5 furnace, 6 differential, 7 STAGE, 8 Gen start (automatically will start stop Gen based on indoor temp).

Your picture showed two switches on. I think 6 & 7. Stage is if there is second compressor on unit. These control boards are used in various models. The flow charts point to troubleshooting O/L.
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Old 05-22-2017, 12:35 AM   #9
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The Blue wire is not line voltage. It is the neutral or common. The white and red are line voltage RUN and START circuits respectively.

Also use caution with this part of circuit. The capacitor can knock the crap out of you.

That Bryant RV has lots of service manuals. With details of like put meter across these points, etc.

I have a background in industrial electronic controls. From 5 VDC to 110,000 VAC.
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Old 05-22-2017, 12:44 AM   #10
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I know you are already knee-deep into troubleshooting but sometimes simple things can cause issues you're just guessing. Have you tried to reboot the thermostat if it's 3:30 or 3 Zone thermostat sometimes they get wonkers and you have to reset them procedures for that are in the manual.
Another very common problem with the Jaycees is the communication link between the thermostat and the AC itself. Dutchman is notorious for a problem where the telephone jack looking plug plugs into the AC that is a communication link from the thermostat to the AC.
These are simple things that check and you may have already done it but you didn't mention it so I thought I'd throw him out there because they will cause your problem.
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Old 05-22-2017, 01:12 AM   #11
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In the picture there was no connections to th RJ11 jacks. But yes that could have been a problem.

I took initial symptoms 1) Power to unit yes 2) Fan runs yes 3) Compressor does not run. I looked at wiring diagram. Looking at "how" it works, Signal to Start relay, time delay to Run relay. Seen O/L in circuit, this is first thing I would check. Many times I have worked 3 phase motor starters, "equipment not running", and found the O/L's tripped out. Or the wrong ones installed from beginning. KISS principle.

Below is steps from Service Manual :

C5. Compressor To check compressor, turn the air conditioner circuit breaker to OFF. Disconnect the wires from the COMMON, START and RUN terminals. With the ohm meter set on the lowest ohm scale, check for continuity between all three terminals. Lack of continuity between any of the terminals indicates faulty windings in the compressor, and the compressor should be replaced. Next, scrape some paint off the casing of the compressor and check for continuity between each terminal and the casing. If a reading is obtained, the windings are shorted to the casing and compressor must be replaced.

C6. Overload Protector An overload protector is a component that will open the AC circuit to the compressor if the compressor overheats due to an electrical problem. Some compressors have the overload protector built inside the compressor. This type, if defective, requires a complete compressor replacement. Most compressors have the overload protector mounted on the exterior of the compressor casing. To check this type of protector, turn the air conditioner circuit breaker OFF. Make sure that the overload is at ambient temperature and measure continuity across its terminals. If open, it should be replaced. A weak overload protector in the electrical system will cause the compressor to start and stop rapidly or short-cycle. This situation would be difficult to test. An exact replacement overload protector should be used whenever a replacement is required. See FIG. C9.
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Old 05-22-2017, 01:47 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KN5DX View Post
http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ccc5.pdf


Page 5 has dip switch settings. Sry can't paste it direct.

I agree that compressor is likely good. The O/L is basically a thermal time delay fuse.

Dip switches. These are there so unit can be used in other vehicles. 1 is heat strip, 2-4 indicate what zone its in. 5 furnace, 6 differential, 7 STAGE, 8 Gen start (automatically will start stop Gen based on indoor temp).

Your picture showed two switches on. I think 6 & 7. Stage is if there is second compressor on unit. These control boards are used in various models. The flow charts point to troubleshooting O/L.
Thanks but that pic was of the spare board before install. Attached the installed. All off except 7 stages. So that is right.


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Old 05-22-2017, 01:53 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thom View Post
I know you are already knee-deep into troubleshooting but sometimes simple things can cause issues you're just guessing. Have you tried to reboot the thermostat if it's 3:30 or 3 Zone thermostat sometimes they get wonkers and you have to reset them procedures for that are in the manual.
Another very common problem with the Jaycees is the communication link between the thermostat and the AC itself. Dutchman is notorious for a problem where the telephone jack looking plug plugs into the AC that is a communication link from the thermostat to the AC.
These are simple things that check and you may have already done it but you didn't mention it so I thought I'd throw him out there because they will cause your problem.
Thanks Thom. I did reset thermo several times and the other 2 AC"s are working fine. I have disconnected and reset all plugs/connectors twice on all three units too.

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Old 05-22-2017, 02:57 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KN5DX View Post
The Blue wire is not line voltage. It is the neutral or common. The white and red are line voltage RUN and START circuits respectively.

Also use caution with this part of circuit. The capacitor can knock the crap out of you.

That Bryant RV has lots of service manuals. With details of like put meter across these points, etc.

I have a background in industrial electronic controls. From 5 VDC to 110,000 VAC.
The schematic I saw shows the white wire coming from a common post. Also post #12 gives me this indication. The blue wire coming from a Canon plug that may or may not go to a wiring harness somewhere.
Either way your credentials far outweigh mine so I'll yield to your expertise in this matter.
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Old 05-27-2017, 03:41 AM   #15
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Ok guys finally got all 3 AC's working now. Just in time too, 95 degrees today and like 100% humidity. So after the mobile RV guy couldn't help I just kept reading all the stiff and researching and traced down every wire and plug to the unit. Low and behold I remember reading on here about the LMS and see there are a couple yellow wires and see this in the manual:

"Yellow Wires (Load Shed)
If the load shed option is to be used, wires must be run from the load shed control to the Dometic A/C. If the compressor is not coming on disconnect the yellow wires if hooked up to the load management system. When the yellow wires touch each other or go to ground the compressor will not run."

There it was, for some reason the LMS is keeping the compressor from starting. I disconnected the 2 yellow wires and BAM compressor fired off. Started cooling immediately. So now to figure out the cause of this. I'm on a 50 amp shore service and even when the other 2 units are off and the yellow wires are connected the middle #1 compressor won't kick in. Must be a loose wire somewhere or something. Any others ideas? I will attempt to follow the other threads on LMS I saw. Looks pretty similar on the 3990 with a 3rd AC. I may have to wait until Tuesday and give them a call, but for now it's cooling off in here. Thanks everyone for the assist, great help.
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