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Old 05-23-2013, 06:13 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by ATCguy View Post
OK, here are the 4 types of vents that I have in my unit... not counting the FanTastic type vents:

This is one of the circular 'puck' vents in my ceiling, that I can open or close by screwing the cap into/out of the ceiling. I believe these are the outputs from the main 15K A/C unit for Zone 1. These are the only adjustable vents I have in the unit, and I have 4 of these in the main area... 2 in the garage... 1 in the bathroom... and 2 in the bedroom. Again, I believe these are standard in every Voltage 3200, regardless of how many additional A/C units an owner my opt for:




These next vents are located in the steps to the bathroom... and I'm told they are the return vents for the Zone 1 A/C system:



Next I have these vents in the floor of the unit, which are the furnace outputs:



Finally, I have 2 of these vents in the ceiling... and I believe these are the furnace return vents:

Either I read your post incorrectly or you have two items reversed.
The wooden parts under the stairs are intake for the furnace and the louvered vents in the ceiling are for A/C return air in the kitchen.
That's how it works in my 3800.
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Old 05-24-2013, 12:53 AM   #22
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Thank you for the post of the pics Tom from ATCguy and Rick from GOLDENYEARS.
Very much appreciated.

I'm going to be ordering them.

I'm hookin' the coach to the truck tomorrow morning and heading to Wassamski Camping Resort for a long weekend of R&R and possibly a favorite beverage.

We're raining steady here in the Northeast 'till Tuesday, maybe.............I'll have alot of my favorite beverage.

Cheers to our fallen.............active duty and veterans.
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Old 05-24-2013, 01:19 AM   #23
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Have one for me...travel safely.....

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Old 05-24-2013, 02:28 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by sundancer 87 View Post
Either I read your post incorrectly or you have two items reversed.
The wooden parts under the stairs are intake for the furnace and the louvered vents in the ceiling are for A/C return air in the kitchen.
That's how it works in my 3800.
The white rectangular vents in the picture are the return vents for the Zone 1 AC unit in my trailer. My cool air vents do not look like those in the picture either, they are circular and slotted with the ability to be turned to direct air flow but not closed
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Old 05-25-2013, 12:15 AM   #25
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Hello all from Minnesota.
I have a Denali 289RK and have used the air cond once it seemed to work fine. The cold air came out of the ducted round ceiling vents and I pointed them where I thought they should be. It cycled on/off for 2 days OK. I am going out 5/27 to 5/31 and will examine it better.
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Old 05-25-2013, 02:44 AM   #26
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Hello all from Minnesota.
I have a Denali 289RK and have used the air cond once it seemed to work fine. The cold air came out of the ducted round ceiling vents and I pointed them where I thought they should be. It cycled on/off for 2 days OK. I am going out 5/27 to 5/31 and will examine it better.
Louie
Welcome to the forum.

You may not have any issues with your cooling. Great, if you don't. If you have issues, you may be looking for sometype of resolve.

For whatever reason, the Voltage and the Infinity are experiencing some issues with cooling.
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Old 05-25-2013, 04:47 AM   #27
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72 Mach I feel your pain as I have the same unit only its a Komfort with front living, same lay out and floor plan as the 3750 fl, I cut an additional slot in the wood trim panel in the fwd living and it did make a little difference but not that great when the temps get very hot. I use a tower fan in the kitchen area moving the cool air fwd and that seems to work better than anything else, I also close the down flow vent 1/2 way on the A/C unit which helps. I am in the process of installing a fantastic fan in the front living area vent, trying to get a power source there now.
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Old 05-25-2013, 05:02 AM   #28
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72 Mach I feel your pain as I have the same unit only its a Komfort with front living, same lay out and floor plan as the 3750 fl, I cut an additional slot in the wood trim panel in the fwd living and it did make a little difference but not that great when the temps get very hot. I use a tower fan in the kitchen area moving the cool air fwd and that seems to work better than anything else, I also close the down flow vent 1/2 way on the A/C unit which helps. I am in the process of installing a fantastic fan in the front living area vent, trying to get a power source there now.
Is it your understanding that the "slots" and the "Hockey puck" vents are discharge vents for cold air or are they "return air" vents?

The way I understand the way the ducts should be done is that the hockey puck vents and the slots CUT IN THE WOOD need to be blowing COLD AIR, WHICH IT DOES NOT.

I hope I have made myself clear.
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Old 05-25-2013, 11:48 AM   #29
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Rick,

The rectangle shaped registers (in the ceiling) are filtered intakes for your air conditioner, as you know. There are two located on each side of each factory installed air conditioner.

The 4" round "puck" vents (in ceiling) are air ducts. There should be air conditioned air flowing through all of them.

You also, have air duct vents in the slotted wood molding. These look good but are as useless as.......................(you fill in the blank). They'll never work correctly. Bad research and development.

If you don't have air flowing through the round "puck" vents then it is time to have a discussion with your dealer.
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Old 05-25-2013, 01:15 PM   #30
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Rick,

The rectangle shaped registers (in the ceiling) are filtered intakes for your air conditioner, as you know. There are two located on each side of each factory installed air conditioner.

The 4" round "puck" vents (in ceiling) are air ducts. There should be air conditioned air flowing through all of them.

You also, have air duct vents in the slotted wood molding. These look good but are as useless as.......................(you fill in the blank). They'll never work correctly. Bad research and development.

If you don't have air flowing through the round "puck" vents then it is time to have a discussion with your dealer.
Please read my OP again. Something is amiss with my unit. I agree with you the pucks should be discharge vents for the air conditioned air. But they are most surely intakes. All 6 pucks and both slotted vents. The only discharge is the vents in the air unit itself and they do not have filters.

I will be checking the vents in the bedroom today for filtering medium. I will keep all posted

I have spoken to the service manager at the dealership and also Bishop from dutchmen as well. I have sent pictures as well. I will keep all informed.
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Old 05-27-2013, 01:12 PM   #31
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Rick,

The rectangle shaped registers (in the ceiling) are filtered intakes for your air conditioner, as you know. There are two located on each side of each factory installed air conditioner.

The 4" round "puck" vents (in ceiling) are air ducts. There should be air conditioned air flowing through all of them.

You also, have air duct vents in the slotted wood molding. These look good but are as useless as.......................(you fill in the blank). They'll never work correctly. Bad research and development.

If you don't have air flowing through the round "puck" vents then it is time to have a discussion with your dealer.
On my 3905 the slotted wood molding vents looked to me like their only purpose was to allow pass thru air to the basement. Since it is a heated basement. I noticed how I would feel drafts coming from them when my basement doors were opened. If you are on city water you have to keep the doors opened on my model, which is a bad design in the cold weather. Next time I'll just fill the fresh water tank and keep the door closed to keep in the heat.

Now on the 3905 the bedroom AC is tied in with the hockey puck duct work. So on my model the only vents that I'm going to close are the ones in the garage. I have a AC unit back there too. I have tried it out in 80 degree weather and all three units cooled the RV down to 72 no problem. The main room was harder to keep cool with the door always opening and closing. So I'm going to shut the vents in the garage. I had them open because I have the heat pump option and in the mornings and over night I used it to keep the chill out of the RV. I really wish the Voltage had a ceiling fan in the main room to push that heat down like my Raptor did. It must have been 85 degrees in the loft when I was running that heat pump.
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:51 PM   #32
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Any one else with air conditioning problems

Just wondering is anyone else is having problems with air coming from the air conditioning vents and suspect that there may be a problem with the way the ducting is hooked up.
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Old 05-29-2013, 11:18 PM   #33
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Does anyone have beaded insulation come out?
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Old 05-30-2013, 01:09 AM   #34
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Just wanted to follow up on my earlier posts to say that... Thankfully, I think I can safely say that I no longer have any cooling problems.

Having closed all of the round ceiling vents in the bedroom, bath, and garage... I'm getting a good flow of cool air into the main cabin now. (you may remember that I have extra, separate A/C units for the bedroom & garage, so I don't need to have the ceiling vents open in those areas)

I decided to test everything today, as I knew we were forecast to have humid temps up into the mid-80s. So when I left the rig today for my ride, I intentionally closed everything up and left all of the A/C units in the OFF position. When I arrived home shortly before 6 PM, needless to say the interior of the rig was hot... with an interior temp reading on the thermostat of 86.

On the thermostat, I then set ZONE 1 to the COOL setting, set the temp to 68 degrees, and began the timer on my iPhone. In less then 15 minutes, the cabin was cool... and the system shut down with a little more than 26 minutes on the clock. Since then, I've increased the target temp to 70 degrees... and it's been nice & cool in the main area, with the system cycling on & off occasionally as needed.

So I think I'm good to go... with the solution being closing the vents to the other areas. Of course, if you've only got a single A/C unit (or even 2), that may not be an option for you, and I'm not saying this to brag. I just wanted to share my solution to the issue.
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Old 05-30-2013, 01:21 PM   #35
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Does anyone have beaded insulation come out?
Not yet, should there be? Not, I would suspect.
My bedroom air works like a charm in the 3750FL. Cold air exudes from the "puck vents". My only concern is the lack of air filters in that unit. There are no manuals for it or the zone 2 air in my manual pack. I dont even know what kind of unit it is yet..

I am expecting an email anyday now from Bishop at Dutchmen.
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Old 06-01-2013, 03:55 AM   #36
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Does anyone have beaded insulation come out?
That is the styrofoam that your walls and roof are make of. All the duct system in these units are is a carving out of the styrofoam; there is no actual "duct" in the ceiling. It's the worst system I've been around for airflow.

I just traded a Jayco that had actual ducts run in the wood trussed ceiling. With my Kodiak, the walls and ceiling are made of compressed styrofoam with no place to put an actual duct work. Notice there are no electrical outlets in the exterior walls either.... It's lighter, but it comes with its own set of nuances.
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Old 06-02-2013, 06:36 PM   #37
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A couple of things that helped with my voltage 3950:
1: pull off all the adjustment discs on the puck vents mad check for debris. Each of mine had a plastic disc inside of the duct work from where some lazy moron cut a hole in the ceiling with a hole saw and left the "hole" part up there

2: completely remove (by pulling) the adjustment disc from one or two puck vents in the main lounge area, this allows the air to blow directly down from the high ceiling. This makes a huge difference.

3. I have two AC's and they are ducted together, so running them both with the bedroom unit in the duct mode (the sliding close off louvers closed) the unit calls off very quick. With the louvers open it will freeze the bedroom.

After doing this my voltage stays a nice cool temperature all the way into the upper 90's outside. I hope this helps some, although some on here have other issues.
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Old 06-02-2013, 11:55 PM   #38
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That is the styrofoam that your walls and roof are make of. All the duct system in these units are is a carving out of the styrofoam; there is no actual "duct" in the ceiling. It's the worst system I've been around for airflow.

I just traded a Jayco that had actual ducts run in the wood trussed ceiling. With my Kodiak, the walls and ceiling are made of compressed styrofoam with no place to put an actual duct work. Notice there are no electrical outlets in the exterior walls either.... It's lighter, but it comes with its own set of nuances.
Yesterday, I received the adjustable air conditioning "puck" vents that I ordered. I didn't know that they couldn't be closed off.

I have altered them by cutting off the nubs that hold them from closing all the way.

I can shut off all of the vents now and drive the cold air into the bedroom to the wood molding slot vents. It's not as cold as it should be.

I too, have discovered the same styrofoam duct work in my coach. The idiots that put this together were thinking about saving money and lack of air conditioning efficency. I've never had an issue with keeping cold air in any of my past 5th wheel units.

I will be looking for these differences in my next 5th wheel.

It will not be another Infinity .
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Old 06-03-2013, 12:31 AM   #39
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That is the styrofoam that your walls and roof are make of. All the duct system in these units are is a carving out of the styrofoam; there is no actual "duct" in the ceiling. It's the worst system I've been around for airflow.

I just traded a Jayco that had actual ducts run in the wood trussed ceiling. With my Kodiak, the walls and ceiling are made of compressed styrofoam with no place to put an actual duct work. Notice there are no electrical outlets in the exterior walls either.... It's lighter, but it comes with its own set of nuances.
the styrofoam may be the norm but my Voltage has real ductwork in the ceiling. It is ductboard with vents cut into it.

I pulled my puck ducts out and looked inside. I didnt have a mirror to see into the ducts to see if any objects were just out of reach of my fingers but it was ductboard.
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Old 06-04-2013, 01:36 AM   #40
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Tanman what year is your Voltage? Factory built month/year would be nice. If you have that information.
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