V3305 winterizing question?

[nowucme]

We are beginning the winterizing process of our toy hauler for the first time. I read the sticky and understand the general process but have a question regarding the valve and hose connection labelled winterizing in the hookup panel of our RV. What part of the process do they serve? There is a separate valve for bypassing the water heater and unfortunately the manufacturer instructions aren't that specific. I'm embarrassed to say but the sales rep did go over it all and at the time it made perfect sense but my memory ain't quite what it used to be.

Bruce and Jen

[Infinityrver]

I don't have a Voltage. I assume that they're close.

I start by turning on all my faucet valves inside and out, hot and cold. Pull the drain plug on the hot water tank. Let it drain. Low point drains, uncap them. After everything drains I turn my winterization valves in the service area. I then empty my fresh water tank by running the water out with the pump. I don't have a low point drain on my fresh water tank.

Some people winterize using air. I use RV antifreeze. I do hot side first (doesn't matter hot or cold first you pick). I do longest run on one side. Which is our kitchen sink. Wait till it comes through completely red. Then I go to the washing machine hookup and do the same. We will go to the shorter runs there after toilet, shower, and vanity sink. I will do the cold side the same way. I always run about two quarts through all drains to make sure they're winterized.

Kinda feels like a waste for me to have done this. We're leaving at the end of November for some Florida sunshine. I'll dewinterize the unit before we leave. I'll fill my fresh water tank water and water heater. Then run fresh water through all waterlines. I'll run my furnace through the evening and as I travel to keep the lines from freezing.

[nowucme]

Thanks for your timely answer. How do you introduce the RV antifreeze into your system? I was thinking maybe that's what the hose connection labelled winterize is for. I read where some people tried to pour it into the fresh water tank and pump through system but had to use many gallons. Others talked of disconnecting lines from their pumps, which I'm capable of doing but sounds like more trouble than the sales rep described. You mentioned you turn your valves. I imagine one is the water heater bypass, what is the other one for? I have to work a couple more winters but look forward to the day when we will head for warmer climates this time of year. Safe travels to you both.

Bruce and Jen

[Infinityrver]

Bruce,

You have a very up to date winterization system on your coach. The two different ways you mention are ways that I have had to do it on other units that I've had. Although, I must admit I have never placed RV antifreeze in my freshwater tank. A friend of mine did the tank thing and I showed him how to disconnect a hose off the pump and siphon it.

I introduce the RV antifreeze using a 6 foot 3/4" diameter garden hose attached to the winterizing fitting you mention. I either pour or siphon the rv antifreeze in while I'm running the pump. I do one faucet at a time.

"Hot water heater bypass valve" as you mentioned and "Winterization valve" both have to be turned in the vertical position. Red is for the hot water line and blue is for the cold water line.

At this time, my wife and I are not full time snowbirds (I wish). We're heading to Florida and will stay about a week, during Thanksgiving, to see my grand kids. We leave the tow vehicle and coach there at a camping site. We'll fly back home. We're flying back down the 1st of January and staying until after the RV show at the Tampa Fairgrounds. We'll do the same in February and in March we'll do the same. We'll bring everything back at the end of March.

[ATCguy]

Ok... maybe I should start an entire new thread on this... but since this is my first winter with an RV, it dovetails right in with the OP's question.

I've been sitting here debating whether to go thru the winterization process on my Voltage 3200. Why? Well, first off, I live in the south where we're really never going to have a 'deep freeze' period, over a sustained amount of days. Oh sure, we're going to get some nights where the temp drops below 32 degrees... but just a few hours later, it's going to be right back up into the 40s & 50s.

Secondly, I know my rig has the full 'underpinning', for lack of a better term... so I don't have any exposed pipes except for the sewer & low-point drains. And, I also have tank-heaters that I can turn on if needed.

Finally... I still plan to make 2 or 3 more weekend treks during these 10 weeks before I leave here in February for Florida. I don't want to have to fill & drain the anti-freeze every time I wanna take her out for a long weekend.

So I guess my question simply is, with those factors in mind... do I REALLY need to go thru the winterization process?

My rig sits beside my garage, where I have it plugged into my garage's power grid (110v, 15 amp circuit only). I have the thermostat set to HEAT, with the temp set to 40 degrees... so if it gets below 40 degrees, the heat will pop on. I've tested it, and the furnace will run on my 15-amp circuit with no problem. I've got both of my propane tanks filled, so I'm good there. I have not turned on my tank heaters because... since they're electric, I didn't want to run my electricity bill. But, of course, I can turn them on if needed, and I'm wondering if maybe I shouldn't do that on the nights I know the temp is going to drip below 32 degrees.

I mean, I know some people take their rigs on ski trips, where they're constantly subjected to sub-freezing temperatures for days on end. What do they do? Surely they don't go without their plumbing systems. So if their pipes aren't bursting at night when they're sleeping & not using them for 6-to-8 hours... what's the trick?

I've got to make some kind of decision pretty quick though, as we are forecast to have our first sub-32 degree temps of the season beginning Tuesday night. The forecast calls for an overnight low of 28, with a daytime high of 46... sinking back into the same for Wednesday night before we warm back up for a few days after that.

[Jbee]

Originally Posted by ATCguy

Ok... maybe I should start an entire new thread on this... but since this is my first winter with an RV, it dovetails right in with the OP's question.

I've been sitting here debating whether to go thru the winterization process on my Voltage 3200. Why? Well, first off, I live in the south where we're really never going to have a 'deep freeze' period, over a sustained amount of days. Oh sure, we're going to get some nights where the temp drops below 32 degrees... but just a few hours later, it's going to be right back up into the 40s & 50s.

Secondly, I know my rig has the full 'underpinning', for lack of a better term... so I don't have any exposed pipes except for the sewer & low-point drains. And, I also have tank-heaters that I can turn on if needed.

Finally... I still plan to make 2 or 3 more weekend treks during these 10 weeks before I leave here in February for Florida. I don't want to have to fill & drain the anti-freeze every time I wanna take her out for a long weekend.

So I guess my question simply is, with those factors in mind... do I REALLY need to go thru the winterization process?

My rig sits beside my garage, where I have it plugged into my garage's power grid (110v, 15 amp circuit only). I have the thermostat set to HEAT, with the temp set to 40 degrees... so if it gets below 40 degrees, the heat will pop on. I've tested it, and the furnace will run on my 15-amp circuit with no problem. I've got both of my propane tanks filled, so I'm good there. I have not turned on my tank heaters because... since they're electric, I didn't want to run my electricity bill. But, of course, I can turn them on if needed, and I'm wondering if maybe I shouldn't do that on the nights I know the temp is going to drip below 32 degrees.

I mean, I know some people take their rigs on ski trips, where they're constantly subjected to sub-freezing temperatures for days on end. What do they do? Surely they don't go without their plumbing systems. So if their pipes aren't bursting at night when they're sleeping & not using them for 6-to-8 hours... what's the trick?

I've got to make some kind of decision pretty quick though, as we are forecast to have our first sub-32 degree temps of the season beginning Tuesday night. The forecast calls for an overnight low of 28, with a daytime high of 46... sinking back into the same for Wednesday night before we warm back up for a few days after that.

You pretty much asked all of the questions I had as well. I have the all weather package with the heated storage and underbelly. Mine also stays plugged in (50 amp) so power is no issue. I plan to set the heat to come on at 40-45 degrees and could also run the tank heaters. That said, are the tank heaters automatic or, when they are on, they are on? Next, does anyone know which of the three switch's would be just for the fresh water holding tank heater?

[gonervn]

I live in Northwest Ohio and it does get cold here. I have been winterizing my RV's for about 15 years. Unless it gets in the mid 20's and stays there for a few days I do not winterize. If temps were to fall below 20 and not get above freezing for a day I would consider doing it. I always have waited until after Thanksgiving.

I hook up a hose to the winterize valve after doing all the other pre-work you mentioned and stick the end in the antifreeze bottle then do one faucet at a time. I start with kitchen sink and work my way up. Don't forget the outside shower. I only wait for the water to turn pink for 15 seconds or so.

With your situation you should be fine with heat in the RV. If you go camping in the mean time and are hooked up to water and it were to get real cold let a faucet drip water over night.

[nowucme]

Thanks again Dave for all your help. I just finished the plumbing part of the winterizing. I found that the pump will pull the antifreeze from the bottle when I put the hose in the bottle. I just need to bring in the flat screen and roll up my water hoses. I think I'll pull the sliders in too.

[nowucme]

I was wondering which switch does which tank heater too. Or if the heater would burn up if I turned it on an empty tank.

[Jbee]

Originally Posted by nowucme

I was wondering which switch does which tank heater too. Or if the heater would burn up if I turned it on an empty tank.

I would like the answer to both of these questions as well.... anyone....anyone? :-)

[sundancer 87]

The funny thing about those tank heaters, we have no way to know if they are on or not.

I would think they are only like a heating pad for your body, a warmth more than a hot contact to the tank so a dry tank shouldn't be warmful. However, that's only a SWAG on my part.

[Jbee]

Well I know there is a load being pulled on the converter because I can hear the fan come on when at least two are switched on. Gives me a minor case of the warm and fuzzys anyway