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Old 05-16-2017, 11:49 AM   #1
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Revisiting Electric Dump Valves...

Ok, I know there are other threads on this. I've read through a few of them, but this one's gonna have a twist...

Yesterday's arrival at the campground was the 2nd time I've set up since getting back on the road after my injury. In general things have gone well... even better than I expected... except for one area: the sewer.

Having to bend over and/or crouch down to connect & disconnect the sewer hose is painful, but manageable. However, opening/closing the rear grey tank, and especially the fresh water tank dump valves is not... especially when the slide is extended. I use my washer/dryer nearly every other day, and that rear grey dump valve that is located UNDER the slide is nearly inaccessible.

Couple that with the fact that my black tank valve is getting harder & harder to close... and I think it's finally time to switch to all electrics... including the fresh water dump (the twist).

Since this is clearly a job I can't do in my present condition... and since I don't wanna lose my rig to being in a shop for a few days... my plan is to purchase the valves myself, and then pay a mobile tech (or someone who knows how to do it) to install them at one of my future stops. (Any volunteers? LOL)

Questions:

Valterra vales or a different brand? Any pros & cons as to which?

Is there a preferred place to buy them, and what can I expect to pay for them? (I'll need 4)

Mounting location ideas for the switches. Interior near the control panel, or exterior in the wet bay?

Thanks in advance...
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Old 05-16-2017, 01:25 PM   #2
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Actually, after a bit of researching other forums, I think I may have found answers to a few of my questions.

I DO NOT want a motor unit that attaches to the existing valve... so that eliminates the Barker system.

I think these Waste Master units are what I'm looking for, but I don't recall reading about anyone here having used them. Anyone have thoughts or opinions about them?

| Drain Master
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Old 05-16-2017, 07:17 PM   #3
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Based on the instructions, it appears as though the drain master is a direct replacement for the manual valve. No cutting and gluing required.

My only concern would be the available space to install in the upright orientation as required.
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Old 05-16-2017, 07:47 PM   #4
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The Valterra require no gluing on the two front tanks - direct bolt on.

The galley will require adapters (Valterra sells them) to be glued in due to different size pipe.

The rear blackwater tank should require no gluing either as it is the same size pipe as the front two tanks - I have yet to install this one though I have it on hand.
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Old 05-16-2017, 07:58 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donzinger View Post
... The rear blackwater tank should require no gluing either as it is the same size pipe as the front two tanks - I have yet to install this one though I have it on hand.
I have no rear black tank (no rear toilet), so that's not an issue.

Just black tank... front grey... rear grey... freshwater.

Quote:
Originally Posted by donzinger View Post
The Valterra require no gluing on the two front tanks - direct bolt on.

The galley will require adapters (Valterra sells them) to be glued in due to different size pipe.
Question: what exactly is getting bolted on? An entire new valve & motor assembly, or just a motor to pull the existing valve?

Also... what size is the galley (rear) pipe? Not 3" as the others?
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Old 05-17-2017, 06:51 PM   #6
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I replaced the Black tank valve on my 2014 Voltage with the Valterra Electric 3". My front Grey tank is also a 3" valve and it will be next. The rear Grey tank is only 1 1/2" valve though and Valterra sells these in electric as well. The Black tank was 4 bolts, spread the pipe and pull the old valve out, along with the old seals. New one goes in the same way. Took about an hour to change out. The only problem I ran into was the existing pipe flanges were not exactly square. In other words, the flange/s are set up to be bolted square but the flange it self had a little rounding to it (see attached picture). All I did was grid off one side flat so the motor side of the valve would fit tight.


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Old 05-18-2017, 06:52 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATCguy View Post
I have no rear black tank (no rear toilet), so that's not an issue.

Just black tank... front grey... rear grey... freshwater.



Question: what exactly is getting bolted on? An entire new valve & motor assembly, or just a motor to pull the existing valve?

Also... what size is the galley (rear) pipe? Not 3" as the others?
Entire valve. Four bolts with nuts holds the cable valve in place and the Valterra electric unit is a direct fit to replace the cable valve.
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Old 05-18-2017, 12:17 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donzinger View Post
Entire valve. Four bolts with nuts holds the cable valve in place and the Valterra electric unit is a direct fit to replace the cable valve.
This is good to know.
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Old 05-22-2017, 09:12 PM   #9
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My personal opinion is up in the air!

I've installed the Valterra on both of my front tanks. (black & grey) alike you I want to do my third valve (rear grey) actually already have the valve and adapters just haven't done it yet.

The good: They are super easy, very straightforward to install and all components are included in the valve purchase. Good customer service, very good to send replacement parts.

The bad: Reliability (this is where my up in the air opinion comes from) I installed both valves the same day, while testing on day 1 one of the LED lights indicating open/closed quit working after 5 cycles. About 6 months after install the other valve quit working completely. I did call Valterra and they sent me a brand new valve no questions asked. I was actually surprised how easy it was to get a replacement, I had bought mine through Amazon and called Valterra directly when the second one quit working. They didn't even ask for the old non-working valve back.

Was this a fluke? Like I said i'm not bashing them as they are absolutely awesome when working. I also can say when it quit working i was able to change them out in under 30 minutes since i was just replacing the valve and not having to rewire etc. All in all I'd roll the dice and suggest them, I would also keep my receipts etc. just in case.
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Old 06-01-2017, 05:19 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vchris View Post
?.. The only problem I ran into was the existing pipe flanges were not exactly square. In other words, the flange/s are set up to be bolted square but the flange it self had a little rounding to it (see attached picture). All I did was grid off one side flat so the motor side of the valve would fit tight.
I guess I have a similar issue...

So, I order 4 Valterra EZ-valves, and two 1½ to 3" flanges. Get them in, and set up an appointment with an RV shop to install them. I get to the shop early this morning, drop the rig.

Got a call about 2 hours later to inform me of a snag, and ask me to come over. When I arrive, the techs bring me over and inform me that my OEM plumbing hardware is Bristol. The snag is... as mentioned above... the flanges don't line up. He says he can grind the flange in the new valves to fit, but is worried that since the one side will be thinner, concerned that they may crack due to road vibration and ordinary wear & tear. Wants my ok before he continues.

I gave him the ok, and hope & pray it'll be ok. Guess time will tell.
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Old 06-02-2017, 10:23 AM   #11
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Had the same issue when I replaced mine (manual valve). Didn't want to risk it and reordered Bristol. On top of that, my grey up front was 3", not 1 1/2". Go figure?
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Old 06-02-2017, 07:38 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATCguy View Post
... The snag is... as mentioned above... the flanges don't line up. He says he can grind the flange in the new valves to fit, but is worried that since the one side will be thinner, concerned that they may crack due to road vibration and ordinary wear & tear. Wants my ok before he continues.

I gave him the ok, and hope & pray it'll be ok. Guess time will tell.
Ran into the same challenge replacing the black valve on my V3605 - filed/ground down one of the 'ears' and it popped in like I thought it should. That's been around two years ago, I'd guess, and no problem with vibration, etc.

Ran into a different challenge after the main grey tank valve replacement. Rather than convert a bunch of piping to 3", I adapted the 3" valve to fit the 1-1/2" pipe downstream of the new valve. Fished a plastic disc out of the tank outlet and figured that's why my grey had been slow to drain on occasion. Now experiencing the same symptom, and I'll bet my pink slip it's another plastic disc (maybe a coke can) that an assembler left in the tank. Next warm day when I have nothing better to do (sigh).

Hope yours perform flawlessly.
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Old 06-15-2017, 01:03 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xhogboss View Post
Ran into the same challenge replacing the black valve on my V3605 - filed/ground down one of the 'ears' and it popped in like I thought it should. That's been around two years ago, I'd guess, and no problem with vibration, etc.

Ran into a different challenge after the main grey tank valve replacement. Rather than convert a bunch of piping to 3", I adapted the 3" valve to fit the 1-1/2" pipe downstream of the new valve. Fished a plastic disc out of the tank outlet and figured that's why my grey had been slow to drain on occasion. Now experiencing the same symptom, and I'll bet my pink slip it's another plastic disc (maybe a coke can) that an assembler left in the tank. Next warm day when I have nothing better to do (sigh).

Hope yours perform flawlessly.
Looks like I may have the plastic disk syndrome as well in my rear grey tank. Drained fine a week ago now not a drop. Got under and held on to the valve while the wife pulled and pushed and it seems fine, I can feel movement. It was always slow, just figured the 1 1/2" was the culprit. Planning on upgrading 1 1/2" pipe to full 3" all the way back.

Anybody see a problem with that, that I don't!

Already ordered the 3" so hope that will work. If not, got 3 more tanks to do too!
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Old 06-15-2017, 04:21 PM   #14
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Trying 'burping' the tank to dislodge the disc. Attach and extend your drain hose. Cap it. Open the gray tank valve. Working from either end of the drain hose, fully collapse it - this will force the air in the hose past the obstruction and hopefully move it out of the way so the tank can drain. It it does, you'll have an empty tank so there won't be a flood when you remove the valve from the system.

Good luck
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Old 06-15-2017, 07:26 PM   #15
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Update on my valves...

Had them installed 2 weeks ago (June 1st). Worked as advertised for a week. Got to OKC, and had to cycle the toggle open-closed a few times for 2 of the valves to work... but they did open. The red LED light on them dud not.

Last night here at Mesa Verde in Colorado, I went to dump the tanks... could not get those same 2 to work. This morning, I went out and removed the switch from working valve... replaced non-working valve switch with the working one... valve operated, tank dumped. Repeated on the other one... same result.

Called Valterra... explained the situation, and followed up with email including invoices for purchase & install, and photos of my testing. They are sending me 2 new switches via 2-day UPS so I'll have them before I leave.

So far, so good... gotta like that for customer service. Will update again after I receive the new ones.
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Old 06-16-2017, 01:36 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xhogboss View Post
Trying 'burping' the tank to dislodge the disc. Attach and extend your drain hose. Cap it. Open the gray tank valve. Working from either end of the drain hose, fully collapse it - this will force the air in the hose past the obstruction and hopefully move it out of the way so the tank can drain. It it does, you'll have an empty tank so there won't be a flood when you remove the valve from the system.

Good luck
Xhognoss you're a genius! Hooked up drain hose stretched out and filled with air, put cap on, opened twist off first then had wife open main valve. Initially no water. I started at the far end and compressed about half way before I hear a loud swish! Filled hose, shut off twist off valve. Held hose end up to connect Clean Dump and opened twist off again to another swish, then pumped out a full tank plus. The plus was the wifey in there cleaning sinks and dishes real quick.

Xhognoss here is a couple of cold beers 🍺🍺🍺🍺 just for you.

This should be an "Unclog Waste Drain Valve" sticky!

I will he saving instructions​ for future reference for sure.

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Old 07-20-2017, 08:07 PM   #17
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Glad it worked out! If I ever get back to Texas or you get to South Dakota, I'll take you up on t!e beers.
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