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10-14-2017, 10:46 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Cody
Posts: 1,764
Wyoming
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Ok, Let's Talk RV Water Pumps...
Ok, I'm kinda dumb when it comes to pneumatic issues, so this may seem a bit odd.
For most of the summer, I've been fortunate enough to be at campgrounds & RV parks with decent (if not always great) water pressure. However, a few have been downright piss-pour. I seem to recall reading here & there that turning on the water pump, even when on the city water connection, may sometimes help. Tried that, with no appreciable difference noted.
Now I've bought various water pumps over the years at a hardware store... sump pumps, things like that... and they're always rated by volume output, not necessarily by output pressure.
While I understand that the 2 are somewhat related... I know volume can simply be achieved by having a bigger piston & hose diameter, and not necessarily supply more pressure. In fact, I can't really see a way to affect pressure other than adding a compressor of some type, or by the use of reducing the size of the output line. But that's as far as my pneumatic knowledge goes...
Questions:
1) Will turning the RV water pump on help/boost pressure to the various faucet & shower outlets from the the city water pressure coming into the rig... or is that a myth?
2) Are there water pumps available with output pressure ratings... or are they only sold by volume output (gals/hour)?
3) If the answer to #2 is "yes"... does anyone know of an RV water pump being sold that will supply, say 50psi to the rig's faucets & shower?
__________________
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Tom
2013 VOLTAGE 3200 (EPIC I & II)
2014 Ford F-450 PLATINUM
2018 BMW R1200GS RALLYE
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10-14-2017, 11:04 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Tahlequah
Posts: 3,079
Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATCguy
Ok, I'm kinda dumb when it comes to pneumatic issues, so this may seem a bit odd.
For most of the summer, I've been fortunate enough to be at campgrounds & RV parks with decent (if not always great) water pressure. However, a few have been downright piss-pour. I seem to recall reading here & there that turning on the water pump, even when on the city water connection, may sometimes help. Tried that, with no appreciable difference noted.
Now I've bought various water pumps over the years at a hardware store... sump pumps, things like that... and they're always rated by volume output, not necessarily by output pressure.
While I understand that the 2 are somewhat related... I know volume can simply be achieved by having a bigger piston & hose diameter, and not necessarily supply more pressure. In fact, I can't really see a way to affect pressure other than adding a compressor of some type, or by the use of reducing the size of the output line. But that's as far as my pneumatic knowledge goes...
Questions:
1) Will turning the RV water pump on help/boost pressure to the various faucet & shower outlets from the the city water pressure coming into the rig... or is that a myth?
2) Are there water pumps available with output pressure ratings... or are they only sold by volume output (gals/hour)?
3) If the answer to #2 is "yes"... does anyone know of an RV water pump being sold that will supply, say 50psi to the rig's faucets & shower?
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#1 probably not. With the pump on you'll just be drawing water from the tank at the designed pressure.
#2 most 12 volt demand pumps are set at 40 pounds or so. However, some have an adjustable pressure switch.
#3 there are 60 pound demand pumps but they are wash down pumps with low volume.
This is a FLOJET I have, Model #03501-505. This 12 volt pump has a 1.35 gpm flow rate, 5.0 amp, and 60 psi automatic pressure switch.
It is ideal for wash downs, sinks, etc. The mounting brackets are 2 1/4" apart (length) x 3 14" apart (width) center on center.
They Have (2) 3/8" NPT Threaded Openings.
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2013 Voltage 3800, 2012 Chevy 3500 HD
2010 Yamaha V Star 950
2009 Yamaha Raider
Volunteering with Habitat for Humanity Caravanners
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10-14-2017, 11:09 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Hewitt
Posts: 275
New Jersey
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Turning on the water pump while on city water at best will do absolutely nothing. Worst case, it could burn out the pump from running it dry. The water pump pulls water from the fresh water tank, and is not in the circuit to boost city water pressure. In theory, you could connect your city water connection to the winterize port, and turn on the pump. Same concept as when you put a jug of RV antifreeze connected to the port, and run the pump to pump the antifreeze. I’m not recommending this, as I’m not sure what would happen if the pump had pressure on the inlet all the time. Plus, if the flow is not there, the pump won’t be able to increase flow/pressure.
As far as #2, yes. There are cheap pumps, like Dutchmen installed in our units, and there are better quality after market pumps that will provide more GPM flow, which translates into more pressure. You get what you pay for.
You could put some water in the fresh water holding tank, the try the pump to see if that’s an improvement. Leave the city water disconnected/off if you do that. Then you need to deal with the whole tank cleaning issue. If that provides an improvement, you could buy a better quality aftermarket pump. Plenty of threads here on what works. I’d suggest you get one that will not burn out if run dry.
As far as #3, I don’t think you are going to get 50 PSI, but you can get a pump that is better than the stock one. ShurFlow pumps seem to get good reviews.
If you try filling fresh water tank and using the pump; if the pressure is not good enough, before you replace the pump, pull the panels and make sure the hoses are not pinched. Not that Dutchmen would do that.
We stay in a campground in Maine with intermittent water pressure. One site is OK, another site (our preferred site) sometimes only has a trickle. It’s at the end of the distribution line. Gets worse when everyone is using water. In FL, we usually get residential quality water pressure & flow.
__________________
2013 V 3105
2016 F350 King Ranch CC 6.7 diesel dually
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10-14-2017, 11:15 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Tahlequah
Posts: 3,079
Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdonoghu
Turning on the water pump while on city water at best will do absolutely nothing. Worst case, it could burn out the pump from running it dry. The water pump pulls water from the fresh water tank, and is not in the circuit to boost city water pressure. In theory, you could connect your city water connection to the winterize port, and turn on the pump. Same concept as when you put a jug of RV antifreeze connected to the port, and run the pump to pump the antifreeze. I’m not recommending this, as I’m not sure what would happen if the pump had pressure on the inlet all the time. Plus, if the flow is not there, the pump won’t be able to increase flow/pressure.
As far as #2, yes. There are cheap pumps, like Dutchmen installed in our units, and there are better quality after market pumps that will provide more GPM flow, which translates into more pressure. You get what you pay for.
You could put some water in the fresh water holding tank, the try the pump to see if that’s an improvement. Leave the city water disconnected/off if you do that. Then you need to deal with the whole tank cleaning issue. If that provides an improvement, you could buy a better quality aftermarket pump. Plenty of threads here on what works. I’d suggest you get one that will not burn out if run dry.
As far as #3, I don’t think you are going to get 50 PSI, but you can get a pump that is better than the stock one. ShurFlow pumps seem to get good reviews.
If you try filling fresh water tank and using the pump; if the pressure is not good enough, before you replace the pump, pull the panels and make sure the hoses are not pinched. Not that Dutchmen would do that.
We stay in a campground in Maine with intermittent water pressure. One site is OK, another site (our preferred site) sometimes only has a trickle. It’s at the end of the distribution line. Gets worse when everyone is using water. In FL, we usually get residential quality water pressure & flow.
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One little point of clarification for the masses, 12 volt demand pumps are designed to run dry without damaging them. Unlike an impeller pump that demands water for lubrication the diaphragm doesn't.
__________________
2013 Voltage 3800, 2012 Chevy 3500 HD
2010 Yamaha V Star 950
2009 Yamaha Raider
Volunteering with Habitat for Humanity Caravanners
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10-15-2017, 10:15 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Wesley Chapel
Posts: 3,051
Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sundancer 87
One little point of clarification for the masses, 12 volt demand pumps are designed to run dry without damaging them. Unlike an impeller pump that demands water for lubrication the diaphragm doesn't.
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Can't you fill your internal tank and run off of that?
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10-16-2017, 12:01 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Central
Posts: 104
Massachusetts
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I have had water in fresh tank and hooked to city water also
turned on pump ... if City water is low pressure the pump will kick on and supplement the pressure
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10-18-2017, 09:44 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Desert Hot Springs
Posts: 1,761
California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongo
I have had water in fresh tank and hooked to city water also
turned on pump ... if City water is low pressure the pump will kick on and supplement the pressure
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+1 Agree. My OEM pump started to leak but was still under warranty. I just bought a better Sureflo off of Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Shurflo-2088-...=shurflo+pumps
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Mike
2002 42' Monaco Signature Triple Crown tow 2014 F-150
2014 Voltage V3605 Sold 5/3/17
2012 F-350 6.7l CC 4X4, Sold 10/10/17
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