Leak at back of toilet

[Jayro88]

Hi all.
I noticed that I have a small leak coming from the toilet where the water supply line connects. At first I thought it was that the line was loose ot leaking, but that isn't the case. It is right above where the line threads on. I tried to take a picture, but it didn't turn out that well. It only leaks when you are actually flushing the toilet. It is blurry, but you can see where the line fitting is threaded on. It is leaking from the white ring/doughnut thing above it. Is this something that can be repaired, or is it a replace the whole toilet kind of thing? Thanks

[sundancer 87]

Originally Posted by Jayro88

Hi all.
I noticed that I have a small leak coming from the toilet where the water supply line connects. At first I thought it was that the line was loose ot leaking, but that isn't the case. It is right above where the line threads on. I tried to take a picture, but it didn't turn out that well. It only leaks when you are actually flushing the toilet. It is blurry, but you can see where the line fitting is threaded on. It is leaking from the white ring/doughnut thing above it. Is this something that can be repaired, or is it a replace the whole toilet kind of thing? Thanks

Let us know what RV you have so we can make better suggestions,
As for suggestions, you probably need a new flush valve but it's hard to ascertain from the photo.

[mjcarte]

I would suggest removing the water line, inspect the host connection for a crack and inspect the valve thread as well for a crack.



Out of curiosity, when you winterized your unit, did you run the antifreeze through the toilet lines? I forgot that one year and the valve broke from freezing. It's an easy replacement.


If there are no cracks, try putting thread seal tape on the valve thread.

[Jayro88]

Thanks.

The trailer is a 1994 Dutchman Classic 300.

Yes, antifreeze was run through the toilet as well.

I will double check, but it does not appear to be leaking at the threads where the line comes in. It is leaking above it. It only leaks when you actually flush the toilet. If it was the line coming in I would think it would leak any time it is under pressure.

Is this correct?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mjcarte]

You are correct... if it was the hose or the thread then it would leak when under pressure.


It sounds as though it is the valve. You will have to remove the toilet and check the valve. You can look to see if a screw may have come loose. Also you can check the rubber O-Ring gaskets on the valve; I've had to replace them on my old trailer after 10 years of usage. You can normally find replacement 0-rings at Lowe's, Home-Depot, Menards, etc...

[franktafl]

The new ceramic toilets are really nice, maybe time for an upgrade ?

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Style...273AF3A158D54E

[Jayro88]

Originally Posted by mjcarte

You are correct... if it was the hose or the thread then it would leak when under pressure.


It sounds as though it is the valve. You will have to remove the toilet and check the valve. You can look to see if a screw may have come loose. Also you can check the rubber O-Ring gaskets on the valve; I've had to replace them on my old trailer after 10 years of usage. You can normally find replacement 0-rings at Lowe's, Home-Depot, Menards, etc...

Thanks.

I have never pulled the toilet in a trailer/RV. Is it the same basic process as on in a house with bolts and a wax ring, or does it seal different?

[franktafl]

Originally Posted by Jayro88

Thanks.

I have never pulled the toilet in a trailer/RV. Is it the same basic process as on in a house with bolts and a wax ring, or does it seal different?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9pY6bVfTT0

[Jayro88]

Originally Posted by franktafl

The new ceramic toilets are really nice, maybe time for an upgrade ?

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Style...273AF3A158D54E

Thanks. Looks pretty much the same as a residential except using the rubber gasket instead of a wax ring.

[Pirate]

Same process. Problem may be that the "elevation" of the toilet water supply will continue to have water in it, even after draining the water system. Been there, done that.

So use compressed air to blow the water out of the trailer water system. Then have something to catch water right handy!!

Its a PITA that RV's don't have toilet water supply shut off valves.

Our 2014 Voltage Epic is piped with 1/2" PEX. So I went to ACE Hardware and bought a 1/2" ball valve with 1/2" sharkbite fittings on both ends.

Cut the supply line and put the ball valve in. Whenever we return from a trip, blow the water out of the system with compressed air and then shut the ball valve.

Next trip, connect water, make sure there are no leaks, then slowly open the ball valve...and good to go. If there is a leak around the toilet, just shut the valve and find the problem.

I have a good pic, but its on Photobucket.

Pirate

[CSCLARK]

Originally Posted by Pirate

Same process. Problem may be that the "elevation" of the toilet water supply will continue to have water in it, even after draining the water system. Been there, done that.

So use compressed air to blow the water out of the trailer water system. Then have something to catch water right handy!!

Its a PITA that RV's don't have toilet water supply shut off valves.

Our 2014 Voltage Epic is piped with 1/2" PEX. So I went to ACE Hardware and bought a 1/2" ball valve with 1/2" sharkbite fittings on both ends.

Cut the supply line and put the ball valve in. Whenever we return from a trip, blow the water out of the system with compressed air and then shut the ball valve.

Next trip, connect water, make sure there are no leaks, then slowly open the ball valve...and good to go. If there is a leak around the toilet, just shut the valve and find the problem.

I have a good pic, but its on Photobucket.

Pirate

Funny you say that Stuart, one of my first mods was to put those valves throughout my Voltage water lines, hot and cold except the rear toilet as I can't get to it.....yet. One of these days I plan on removing and replacing the gasket when it goes bad then put the valve in then. Have used them several times over the last year, very handy indeed.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

[AETHERIA]

Hello I had a similar situation on my Kodiak 201QB. The issue for me was that the "pex" line does not have any flex and the curve the manufacture has in the line will always came loose and would strain the thread connection. I installed a small chrome valve (Model# 23060LF) and a sink Faucet flexible hose (braided Fluid master Model# B1T20CSP15) From the local Home Depot. I think these are the actual numbers but you will need to choose what suites you toilet. Clamp the valve on the PEX and attach the hose. Did a real nice job and hasn't leaked in 7000 miles

[Jayro88]

Originally Posted by AETHERIA

Hello I had a similar situation on my Kodiak 201QB. The issue for me was that the "pex" line does not have any flex and the curve the manufacture has in the line will always came loose and would strain the thread connection. I installed a small chrome valve (Model# 23060LF) and a sink Faucet flexible hose (braided Fluid master Model# B1T20CSP15) From the local Home Depot. I think these are the actual numbers but you will need to choose what suites you toilet. Clamp the valve on the PEX and attach the hose. Did a real nice job and hasn't leaked in 7000 miles

Thanks for the info. Been really busy and haven’t had a chance to really dig into it yet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Willid96]

The toilet is easy to remove and the valve is about $40.00. Most RV suppliers carry them in stock.

[MaineDutchmen180]

I just replaced flush valve on my aqua magic 4 because of The same problem. It wasn’t that hard to do, I watched a YouTube video and it showed how to do it without taking the entire toilet apart. You basically unhook the toilet water line, base dismounts with two nuts. You then put something soft like an old towel down and put the toilet upside down on top of it. There are two screws holding the valve in that you have to undo. Once that’s finished you can gently pull the entire valve assembly and unhook the little metal actuator arm that’s connected to the flush handle. The kit will come with a new valve stem and a new O-ring. Just pull the old stem out and replace with one that comes in the kit. Then reassemble in reverse and you’re all set. I went to a local RV places I did not want to wait and it cost me $50 for the kit. I noticed that the aqua magic 5 kit was $40. I needed something to get me going so It didn’t leak when I was going, so I bit the bullet and paid the money. I’ve seen the kit online as cheap as $22.

[Jayro88]

Thanks. My 3 boys soccer season is over, so I should have time to start messing with this and a few other things.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk