...groan, I need to change my black tank valve

franktafl · 07-19-2018, 04:46 PM

Now, my black tank valve won't fully close. I've got a scope to check it out but I'm afraid I'm going to need to change it out. Problem is, my RV is sealed underneath and I need to cut in order to find the darned thing. Been having issues for a while now but I have the extended warranty. Should I file under the warranty and when they fix it, use one of the electrics? I have a Denali 289RE!

Your thoughts?

GGreGG · 07-19-2018, 07:13 PM

Mine was replaced under warranty 4 years ago. Also the cable. The high tech dealerships simply cat a hole in the belly and taped it back. Looks like crap but now I know where it is! My biggest issue has been lubing the cables. Electric would fix that.

lcv800 · 07-19-2018, 08:29 PM

Had all 4 of my valves and cables changed under extended warranty. $1,100.00. Paid no problem. I tried to pay difference and have electrics put in, but I couldn't make it happen.
Rusty

CSCLARK · 07-19-2018, 09:17 PM

I had a bad black valve and went all out and replaced all with electric Valterras with no regrets. If I bought a new coach today I would change them immediately as well. Never a worry again. Easy peasy.....

franktafl · 07-25-2018, 10:13 PM

Called the dealership, they mentioned they are three weeks behind (which is not an issue). They were supposed to call me back to discuss it but ... no call back. Maybe tomorrow. I asked about replacing the valve with an electric one. No answer.. said I need to speak to the service writer.

mjcarte · 07-26-2018, 09:33 AM

I replaced mine with Barker Electric Valves... no problems since. It's nice to dump the tanks without leaving the trailer, especially when it's raining outside.

franktafl · 07-26-2018, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mjcarte

I replaced mine with Barker Electric Valves... no problems since. It's nice to dump the tanks without leaving the trailer, especially when it's raining outside.

Do the electric valves still "seep" when they are closed like the manual ones?

mjcarte · 07-26-2018, 02:33 PM

Not to my knowledge. You should only get "seepage" when there is something blocking the complete closure of the flapper. When I removed my old manual black tank, I found junk had in fact gotten into the flapper causing it to not fully close hence it started seeping.

Besides the electrical valves, I also bought and installed one of those waste valve twist-on valves ( Twist-On RVWaste Valve, 3" -Valterra ). In fact to prevent it from being stolen, I put on a PVC coupler (https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Plum...2843/305473572 )

franktafl · 07-26-2018, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mjcarte

Not to my knowledge. You should only get "seepage" when there is something blocking the complete closure of the flapper. When I removed my old manual black tank, I found junk had in fact gotten into the flapper causing it to not fully close hence it started seeping.

Besides the electrical valves, I also bought and installed one of those waste valve twist-on valves ( Twist-On RVWaste Valve, 3" -Valterra ). In fact to prevent it from being stolen, I put on a PVC coupler (https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Plum...2843/305473572 )

I purchased one of the aux valves also, IF I didn't have that, since I could not close the black tank off, it REALLY came in handy and allowed us to camp over the 4th. I'm wondering how you can keep from getting waste deposits where the valve closes. I flush the tank out real well but unfortunately, I feel I need to close the valve and let water build up in the tank then open it again in order to get a reasonable cleanout.

I have to say, getting the black tank completely empty is my biggest headache when I'm packing up and takes the most time of anything I have to do. I usually end up flushing the tank three, four, five times in order to see that there is NO waste or colored water coming out. It's a real pain.

Cedrick · 07-26-2018, 03:38 PM

I had the same issue on my Infinity with the valve being stuck. It is a pain to change it yourself but it is doable. The problem is finding the valve and working around all the sensor wiring and other lines running through the work space. My biggest problem was getting the valve properly seated. I looked at the electric valves but I know this unit will not be my last and decide not to invest the time and effort.

If you have a warranty and don't like working in cramped space go the warranty route.

Cedrick

franktafl · 07-26-2018, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cedrick

I had the same issue on my Infinity with the valve being stuck. It is a pain to change it yourself but it is doable. The problem is finding the valve and working around all the sensor wiring and other lines running through the work space. My biggest problem was getting the valve properly seated. I looked at the electric valves but I know this unit will not be my last and decide not to invest the time and effort.

If you have a warranty and don't like working in cramped space go the warranty route.

Cedrick

I have the cornerstone warranty and they said they will pay for repairing and replacing the valve. Funny thing, I have a "spongy" floor in the bedroom and they won't pay for repairing that. ?

franktafl · 07-27-2018, 06:24 PM

I have an appointment to get it repaired at the local General store that I purchased it from. They want me to drop it off on August 28th. no idea how long they will keep it but they said they can replace the valves with the new electric ones if I pay the difference.

Just in case you were wondering what the weather is in Key West today...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpeS864lWKc

...

Local150 · 10-02-2018, 03:01 AM

My old 5ver black tank valve seeped too,, this may be hard to explain,, but I put a new knife type valve at the place where you hook your drain hose. Had to put a adapter on each side of the valve so you could put it on by twisting just like your hose hooks on. It cheaply a d easily solved my seep problem,, and on mine it didn't stick out any further than the side of the 5ver,, quick easy fix

franktafl · 10-02-2018, 10:41 AM

an update, I got the RV back, the valves seem to work nicely. they put the controls under the RV, hopefully they are IP rated. Cornerstone paid to replace the valves but I paid to put in the electrics. One valve is a 3" and the other is a 1.5". The valves, which I ordered on line, were 118.00 for the 1.5 and 140.00 for the 3". The dealership wanted twice that but they allowed me to purchase them and they installed them.

All in all, the bill was 1200.00. The insurance company paid 700 and it cost me 500.00 in labor. THAT's A LOT! Is this "normal". Their labor rate was 150.00/hour. They had to spend an extra hour each to wire them in and mount the controls plus I have a 200 deduct for the cornerstone policy.

What have you had done to your RV at the dealership and what was your bill?

**wahoonc** · 10-03-2018, 10:36 AM

$150 an hour sounds about normal. I believe my local CW is more than that and they aren't exactly what I would call competent.

I need to get up the road to "my" dealer Campers Inn and I will see what their's is. I have a part that I ordered waiting up there for me that I need to get and install. IIRC is is somewhere in the $150 range.

Aaron

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