3605 Grey water dump cable - Dutchmen Owners
Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×

Go Back   Dutchmen Owners > Dutchmen Technical | Towing, Maintenance and Repairs > Plumbing, Water and Propane Systems
Click Here to Login
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 06-17-2015, 11:33 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Okeana
Posts: 183
Ohio
3605 Grey water dump cable

I just pulled the grey water drain handle in the convenience center and the cable broke by the handle. The kitchen tank indicates full. I am going to try and get the under belly off enough to reach in and manually pull the valve. Any one know where this valve\ tank is on a 3605? I'm at a campground in Maine for the next two days.

Called Dutchmen and they referred me to two local dealers. Neither will have parts before we leave Sat morning.

Any other ideas would be helpful.
__________________

jeffwelsh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2015, 01:12 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
sundancer 87's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Tahlequah
Posts: 3,079
Oklahoma
Could you access the cable from within the wet bay? Be easier to remove the wall panel behind the bay for cable access. That might be easier than crawling underneath and fighting the underbelly rivets.
__________________

__________________
2013 Voltage 3800, 2012 Chevy 3500 HD
2010 Yamaha V Star 950
2009 Yamaha Raider
Volunteering with Habitat for Humanity Caravanners
sundancer 87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2015, 01:25 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
HornedToad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Midland
Posts: 606
Texas
The UDC grey handle broke off on my 3895. I was able to take down the basement wall, remove the handle fitting from the backside, cut the cable with dykes to open the valve, but couldn't get it close back all the way. It was installed wrapped in tight circles around the plumbing behind the UDC wall before it dropped into the underbelly with tension on the cable causing the break.

The dealer replaced both the black & grey cables under warranty with the correct long gradual sweeping curve into the underbelly. I also had the dealer install trap flaps to access & lubricate the valves.


R & G Mobile Home Supply- Underbelly Adhesives & Tape
Attached Images
 
__________________

Mike & Helen
2014 Voltage 3895 EPIC III
2013 Ford F350 CC DRW FX4
HornedToad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2015, 03:19 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
eightydo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 600
Nevada
I thought the one under the unit was for the galley tank. The one in the wet bay was the front bathroom tank. Correct me if I am wrong.
__________________

2017 Dodge Ram 3500 DRW
2014 Voltage 3200
2005 FLHTCI
eightydo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2015, 04:59 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
KeithE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Murrieta
Posts: 64
California
Just spent 11 days without sewer. Keystone, for some dumb reason, put the main bath and kitchen on one tank (grey pull in the wet bay) and put the rear bath sink on its own tank (grey pull underneath). This is despite the fact that the grey for the main bath/kitchen is just marked kitchen on the indicator. Hope that is clear and helpful.
__________________
2015 Voltage V3605
2012 Ford F-350 CC SRW
KeithE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2015, 01:16 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Canon City
Posts: 860
Colorado
On our 2014 Voltage Epic 3800 there is a grey and a black tank basically under the front bathroom. The front black tank is the main bath toilet only. The front grey tank is the bathroom sink and shower only. These thanks run front to rear.

Under the Kitchen area is the second grey tank which is for the kitchen sink and the Garage bathroom sink. The cable handle is located just about the middle of the living room slide. The tank runs side to side. The rear black tank is directly under the toilet in the Garage bathroom. Checked mine this past Winter with a video probe for issues...and it goes straight down from the toilet to the black tank!

Both the rear grey and black tanks have a sufficient distance from valve handle to valve for the cable to work.

The front tanks...the handles are in the "wet cabinet", the cables cannot be shortened, and its less than 3ft to the grey valve an less than 5ft to the black valve...and the cables are 8ft long, don't have a Teflon liner like bike throttle and clutch cables, and have sealed ends so you can't lubricate them!!!

Search for my "electric valve" post and you'll see the best fix for the problem!!!

Have had the rig out twice and the valves seal tight, open with the flip of a switch, and no mess!!!!

Pirate
Pirate is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2015, 01:49 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
HornedToad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Midland
Posts: 606
Texas
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pirate View Post
have sealed ends so you can't lubricate them!!!
Pirate,

The trap flaps are not to lubricate the cables, they give you access to lubricate the actuator on the valve body with silicone spray. Something you may even consider on the actuator for your electric valves.
__________________

Mike & Helen
2014 Voltage 3895 EPIC III
2013 Ford F350 CC DRW FX4
HornedToad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2015, 05:22 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Minden
Posts: 707
Nevada
On the V3895, the grey and black front tanks are in the wet area, The grey Kitchen handle is located under the slide about in the middle, and has a small handle….The back Black tank handle is right under where the back bathroom is.
__________________
Rich and Angela, Lab Dogs, Ruben, Ace
2015 Voltage V3895
2006 Lance Truck Camper 1181
2019 GMC 3500HD 4X4 CC DRW LB Bags Husky 26K Hitch Can Am Commander 1000 ATV
RVNevada is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2015, 05:22 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Okeana
Posts: 183
Ohio
Thanks everyone for the help. None of the RV dealers had a replacement cable, so I ended up taking the cable out of wet cabinet and cut the sheathing to access the remainder of the cable. That allowed me to wrap the inter cable around my pliers and pull the valve. I bought one of those Valtera cap valves to stick on the end of the dump to prevent any leakage.


Also had the dead bolt break in the rear door. I had to take that apart from the inside to get the back door open. Since the thing is under warranty, it goes back to Holmans to fix that and the cable. Unfortunately, they do not do appointments and you have to leave your unit until they get it in. They told me to plan on 2-3 weeks. That pretty much wraps this thread up. Thanks again.
__________________
2014 F-250 6.7 with Timbrens
2015 Voltage 3605
jeffwelsh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2015, 09:39 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Canon City
Posts: 860
Colorado
Jeff,

Here's a link to where I got a replacement door lock set after wife snapped a key off in one. Also allowed me to get a lock with matching key to front door...one less key to carry.

The lock cost about $30 delivered. I wouldn't waste my time trying to get warranty for $30

Here's the link:

Products

Pirate
Pirate is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2015, 01:53 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Kennewick
Posts: 58
Washington
2015 Voltage 3818, seems the black tank valve is not closing fully, I have a secondary valve on the outlet right now to prevent spilling, but how can I access the cable to check to see why it is not closing? Can I access it from the storage area next to the wet area where the valve handles are? Also, how do these valves close normally, spring loaded or what? Any help would be appreciated befor I tackle this.... Thanks
ranbud is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2015, 03:55 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Okeana
Posts: 183
Ohio
You can see some of the cable from the back of the convenience center. Mine goes through a hole to the under belly. To actually get to the valve you will have to go underneath. I used an air chisel to knock off the rivets, so that wasn't bad.
__________________
2014 F-250 6.7 with Timbrens
2015 Voltage 3605
jeffwelsh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2015, 04:00 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Kennewick
Posts: 58
Washington
Thanks, probably not do any good then to open the storage access. I am just trying to operate the valve in and out to see if I can get it to seal correctly. Being this new, it should not be sticking like this. I was thinking a mobile RV repair guy might be in order, but they probably do not want to deal with taking the bottom off to just clear a tight valve.
ranbud is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2015, 12:09 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Canon City
Posts: 860
Colorado
I would bet that, unfortunately, its not the valve that not sealing. Its that the cable is so long, and can't be lubricated, that it hangs up and won't allow the valve to fully close.

This is why I went with the electric valves. No physical cable, just two wires. The electric drive is heavy duty and opens and closes the valve in oh, maybe a second or less. Seals every time, no leakage.

The only way to go. Honest!

Pirate
Pirate is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2015, 12:15 AM   #15
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Kennewick
Posts: 58
Washington
Thanks for that, I had never heard of these. So is it a costly deal to change to electric valves? I like that idea.
ranbud is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2015, 03:38 AM   #16
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Canon City
Posts: 860
Colorado
Phooey, lost what I had typed.

Anyway the valves are made/sold by Valterra.

Here's a link to the post I did on my change out project:

http://www.dutchmenowners.org/forums...lves-2682.html

They work very, very well!!

Pirate
Pirate is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2015, 02:42 AM   #17
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Kennewick
Posts: 58
Washington
Talked me into it for sure, I am going to do all three valves asap, well, I am going to have it done for me actually. Thanks for the info, for some reason, I never heard of electric ones, seems this should be a standard option.
ranbud is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2015, 02:01 AM   #18
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Kennewick
Posts: 58
Washington
I got my electric valves in and love them, boy what a difference. I am trying to find out if it is OK to leave the gray valves open. Ther eis a flashing red light that indicates that the valve is open, wondering if that is a problem, as I understand it, it is not power keeping it open, it is just a gear to open one direction, then the other direction to close, so leaving the valve open should be OK??? I was thinking of installing a small switch on the two gray valves to cut power to the switch after I open them in order to turn that flashing red light off. Should be Ok right? I have Barker Valves
__________________

ranbud is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Dutchmen RV or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT. The time now is 08:24 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2020 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.
×