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Old 11-09-2015, 10:23 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Camper2b View Post
First I ever heard this... thanks for the 101!
Okay the professor stands corrected.

I went an pulled the 30/50 adapter that I have in my stuff box. It only powers one leg, not both. So it is either dysfunctional or that was an old standard. The only 50 amp RV that I have had any experience with was an Airstream TT. The only difference between it and the 30 amp ones was an additional air conditioner and two extra plugs, they were on the extra leg of the 50 amp and were not powered when using 30 amp. Airstream is too cheap to put any sort of power control centers in. The last time I checked they were still using two stage converters too.

Time to go find a 50 amp RV and pay attention to the wiring

Aaron
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Old 11-09-2015, 11:05 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by calewjohnson View Post
Is this a pic you were looking for?

Cale
Yes, Cale, thanks! It shows the one hot on the 30 amp plug feeding both hots of the 50 amp outlet.
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Old 11-09-2015, 03:49 PM   #23
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I would agree with your assessment...if a GM truck, chances are that either the fuse is not installed (driver side engine compartment) or the wire is not hooked up to the lug or both. My 2005 DurMax had the wire taped up near the break booster...dealer said that not everyone uses the trucks for towing a trailer that uses a 12v power supply, SOP was not to hook up/install fuse, because it is another place for an electrical related failure to happen...

Cale
Exactly what the gentleman at the Titan help desk told me. The brake activator must have a constant source of 13+ volts to power the pump.

Of course I left out the part about the easy way the check it is to verify the voltage at the 12V power pin on the TV connector. It took me less than 5 minutes to verify that I had 0 volts at the pin, find the manual, identify the fuse, pop the hood, find the fuse, check across the terminals, 0 voltage.

CRAP!!!!! Stupid me, That'll teach me to ignore the user manual and use it like my DW always tells me to do!



I think I have finally figured out that "she who must be obeyed"' should at least be listened too! ARG

That square thing is a fuse!

I never had a problem with one before, and silly me I always ass-u-me-d they were them mini breakers that have found their way into to the NA auto market, from the import market.

Having a Daimler-Chrysler Ram, it's got a whole lot more of them than I've seen before, so that just reafirmed my Ass- -me. Wife she's always right!

It's 3:30 if I go to my local auto repair guy he should have one and I'll get back with about enough day light to get back to get power to the pin and brake module to con firm operation.

After 30 minutes of searching his parts bins no luck. His used parts box no luck. crap tomorrow will be written off I'll be all day running to town and back. Repair guy tells me to check at the tire store, they have started doing trailer hitch installs and trailer wire. Success!

Made it home with just enough light that I get the fuse installed and confirm power at the pin.

The moral of the story, when your troubleshooting, identify the problem, identify the possible cause, then start at one end and eliminate the possible causes one by one.

Once that is done and you still can't find the problem, that's where the tech help lines play a role. When you call them and can explain the exact problem and exactly what you have verified. The tech can then tell you if you have missed anything. I have been finding my troubleshooting skills work 99% of the time, it's all of the modern electronics in vehicles and appliances that are my biggest problem.

First generation electronics were a lot easier, they didn't have all the reset switches and system checks like today's electronics.
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Old 11-09-2015, 04:01 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by wahoonc View Post
Okay the professor stands corrected.

I went an pulled the 30/50 adapter that I have in my stuff box. It only powers one leg, not both. So it is either dysfunctional or that was an old standard. The only 50 amp RV that I have had any experience with was an Airstream TT. The only difference between it and the 30 amp ones was an additional air conditioner and two extra plugs, they were on the extra leg of the 50 amp and were not powered when using 30 amp. Airstream is too cheap to put any sort of power control centers in. The last time I checked they were still using two stage converters too.

Time to go find a 50 amp RV and pay attention to the wiring

Aaron
Yep, there have been a lot of changes since my old Airstream, I've pretty much unlearned everything that I learned when I had mine.

There's no sense in keeping that stuff ratlling around and hurting my brain, I'll never get DW back into a camper without a slide and I don't care for the AS slide units I have seen.

What this world needs is a u-build camper kit. By the kit with all the hard stuff done, then your build the floor plan you want.
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Old 11-09-2015, 04:55 PM   #25
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Hddecker, You hit a homerun, If they had a kit, man it would be fun to make your own, I took my 2000 Truck Camper and took it apart and redid everything, it added a couple pounds, but it don't make any sounds any more, and I added oak flooring and redid all the supports, etc. I would like to do a 5th wheel, but I'm retired and getting old, don't know if I would like to do that much work, but I think who ever started your plan, would make a few dollars....
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Old 11-09-2015, 08:18 PM   #26
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Hddecker, You hit a homerun, If they had a kit, man it would be fun to make your own, I took my 2000 Truck Camper and took it apart and redid everything, it added a couple pounds, but it don't make any sounds any more, and I added oak flooring and redid all the supports, etc. I would like to do a 5th wheel, but I'm retired and getting old, don't know if I would like to do that much work, but I think who ever started your plan, would make a few dollars....
I'm retired and tired!

I've seen a lot of u-builts over the years and some of them look it, then some you can't tell if it's live or Memorex.

In1970 I had a neighbor that was building what would be a class A in todays language. He bought a new bare chassis in the 5 ton class. When I saw it he had it weather tight and his plumbing and electrical roughed in. Most of the interior walls had been sheathed and he was about to start on the cabinetry.

We moved to a new town before he finished it, so I didn't see the completed project. I can tell you that his wiring and plumbing would have passed the codes of the day.

Guy down the road from me built a hunting trailer on his 18' hiboy utility trailer. Very unique, it's modular, so when hunting seasons gets here he lays in the modules, including an insulated floor, interlocking walls go into are aliged by the stake pockets and fastened together. Then he locks the modules into place, sleeping, cooking, cleaning and fresh water. His grey water is piped into a five gallon pail outside the rig, then pumped into a holding tank in his truck bed when it reaches the level he set it at.

There has been an increasing number of bare fifth wheel superstructures showing up in my travels, the majority of then look like they are designed for a utility use, but I seen a few that looked suited to a camper.

We or I should say I am not into the fifth wheel, because I use my TV for too many other things, including using it as our grocery getter and I don't want to be re and reing the hitch all the time. We have also downsized the fleet to one road vehicles, my HD, and a couple of ATVs.

Our travel interests are more in seeing the history and culture of the places we go vs bringing the toys. If I could find a superstructure that was suited to a TT and it came with the base stuff like tanks, axles that are aligned and disk brakes I would be all over it.
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Old 11-09-2015, 09:01 PM   #27
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Only problem with a U-build unit would be the finished quality and determining value. I know some people that think they can do anything, but they don't know enough about what they are doing. Some people would build gold plated units that would be far above most things available on the market.

What works for me, is to buy the unit that comes closest to my needs then modify or customize it, with the understanding that the modifications aren't going to help the resale value if it comes to that. I have had several Airstreams, those are probably the only units I have ever had where I got anything close to my money back out of them. Regular RV's depreciate so quickly that it doesn't really pay to buy new, and figure that you had better keep it 10 years just to get the enjoyment out of it and not take a massive financial hit. But then again if you buy an RV to save money or as investment you are beyond help anyway.

Aaron
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