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Old 07-02-2014, 07:50 PM   #1
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No DC Power

I have a 2011 Dutchmen Sport and I lost dc power. Put in a new converter but still no power and I can't find an inline fuse between the batteries and the panel. Any ideas?
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Old 07-02-2014, 07:54 PM   #2
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Do you have 12v at the converter?
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Old 07-02-2014, 07:57 PM   #3
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I don't have a voltage meter but I'll get one and check that
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Old 07-02-2014, 07:59 PM   #4
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I was wondering if anyone knew if there was an inline fuse between the batteries and the converter. There is a junction box but that only houses two posts where power is transfered from the batteries and vehicle lines.

I've also removed the ground from the batteries and plugged in AC, still no DC and is why I replaced the WFCO converter.
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Old 07-02-2014, 08:17 PM   #5
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I don't have a voltage meter but I'll get one and check that
12V test light will work also.
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Old 07-02-2014, 08:40 PM   #6
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I was wondering if anyone knew if there was an inline fuse between the batteries and the converter. There is a junction box but that only houses two posts where power is transfered from the batteries and vehicle lines.

I've also removed the ground from the batteries and plugged in AC, still no DC and is why I replaced the WFCO converter.
Check for circuit breakers. My rig has them mounted on the A-frame just below the battery box.

An rocket scientist at work in the rv industry. They put them in the perfect place for all the road slime, debris and salt can splash up on them. Had to replace both of them last year. Just one more project that I have to get to, I bought a project box at the electronics store and the breakers will be going in it to give some protection.
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Old 07-03-2014, 05:18 PM   #7
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No dc power

So attaching the ground to the battery again I tested for voltage and noticed an intermittent chirp from the electrical junction box up under the front of the trailer. Power to the converter only occurs briefly every few seconds. Thinking I've got a short to ground....
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Old 07-03-2014, 07:00 PM   #8
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Sounds like the circuit breaker is doing it's job. You just need to trace the power wire from the battery to the converter to find the short. Your on the right track.
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Old 07-03-2014, 07:52 PM   #9
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NO DC Power

Thanks
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Old 07-03-2014, 07:57 PM   #10
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So attaching the ground to the battery again I tested for voltage and noticed an intermittent chirp from the electrical junction box up under the front of the trailer. Power to the converter only occurs briefly every few seconds. Thinking I've got a short to ground....
Have you opened the junction box to see what's happening in there. It could be as simple as a terminal shorting out.

If you have a multi meter with a continuity test it will help you trace the shorted circuit.
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Old 07-03-2014, 08:12 PM   #11
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I did open it up but didn't see anything unusual. I am going to trace the wire back and open it again. Hope it's not beyond that as I have the membrane I'd have to open up...
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Old 07-06-2014, 04:27 AM   #12
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Hey gl111, you're kinda goin thru same issues I am goin on with my RV. You mention "two posts" in junction box at front of trailer. Take a closer look at what is holding the two posts. On my trailer, that IS the "short stop" circuit breaker, and it had shorted out. I replaced it with one from Oreilly's ($4.95) and now have 12 VDC to convertor.
Hope this helps you.
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Old 07-07-2014, 12:40 AM   #13
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Replaced that today. No change.... Guess it's headed to the shop
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Old 07-08-2014, 04:31 PM   #14
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Hey gl111,,,,your RV is a lot newer unit than mine, but in reading bout other RV'ers questions here, most units are somewhat similar.
I've received some really great info here, so I'll try to help you as well.
I don't really think you have a short between the "circuit breaker" or "short stop" as mine was labeled, and the converter,,, as that is a pretty good sized wire, (#8 or maybe even #6.) The "breaker" at junction box by battery is chirping tryin (re-setting itself?) to tell you something has a short downstream of itself and most likely the short is downstream of the converter itself,,,,OR the new breaker itself may be bad,,?? What is the amp rating of the new breaker?
I would ;
1. go to the 12 VDC part of converter and one at a time, remove all the fuses, carefully logging down what amp rating each one is and where it went.
2. Hook the battery up and check if you now have continuous 12 VDC at converter. Also, Verify with test meter if you have continuous 12 VDC across terminals at circuit breaker by battery. If OK, re-install first fuse and do this with all the other 12 VDC fuses, checking with meter, that you have continuous 12 VDC at converter, as well as at the breaker by the battery.
That should identify which 12 VDC circuit has the problem.
Hope this helps.
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Old 07-08-2014, 04:52 PM   #15
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yes, the 40 amp shortstop is located there and I replaced it as well. Still no DC so have called a mobile RV technician who has a really good reputation for RV's and electrical to come and fix it

That will be cheaper than hauling it to the dealer and I've exhausted my abilities on it.

Thank You All for your Excellent Assistance!!!
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Old 07-08-2014, 04:55 PM   #16
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I just saw the last thread about removing the fuses on the DC side of the converter..... I'm going to try that. Sounds very reasonable.

Thanks!
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Old 07-18-2014, 05:37 PM   #17
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So, turns out I had a direct short on the wire from the junction box to the converter. I replaced that yesterday by removing the membrane edge screws and then drilling a hole in the floor behind the cabinets. Buttoned back up, termed both ends, and now have DC, everything working right. I did replace with 6 gauge vs the 8 gauge factory installed.
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Old 07-19-2014, 12:26 AM   #18
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So, turns out I had a direct short on the wire from the junction box to the converter. I replaced that yesterday by removing the membrane edge screws and then drilling a hole in the floor behind the cabinets. Buttoned back up, termed both ends, and now have DC, everything working right. I did replace with 6 gauge vs the 8 gauge factory installed.
That'll do it, glad you got it fixed.

Have you determined what caused the short?
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Old 07-19-2014, 12:40 AM   #19
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No. The wire wouldn't pull out and at one point I know it was electrical tie attached to another wire set but my guess is that, as it ran up above the under membrane then up into the floor insulation area that it was pinched by a metal structural member somewhere during that run. I cut both ends back and wire nutted them and pulled the new wire.
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Old 07-19-2014, 01:13 AM   #20
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No. The wire wouldn't pull out and at one point I know it was electrical tie attached to another wire set but my guess is that, as it ran up above the under membrane then up into the floor insulation area that it was pinched by a metal structural member somewhere during that run. I cut both ends back and wire nutted them and pulled the new wire.
That was my first thought, protecting the wiring from pinching and abrasion isn't high on the priority list.
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