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Old 10-31-2016, 04:01 AM   #1
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No 12V

We have a 2014 Trailblazer 2100 RBS (Dutchmen). Last time to the trailer I had no 12V at the electric tongue jack. Turns out I had none at all, inside or out. My multi-tester also took a vacation - nowhere to be found. Fortunately I had my portable generator with me so I plugged it in and voila' - power, including the jack. I hooked up and took off. As long as we were plugged in things were fine, and after 24 hours or so even when I turned off the shore power things worked. I was puzzled but at least we saved the weekend.

Went back to the TT yesterday - dead, no 12V inside or out. I bought a new tester and both coach batteries are at 12.75V. So what the heck is up? There is what I assume to be a "fuse" in the positive wire, bolted to the trailer frame. It was POURING rain yesterday so I didn't even attempt to work on/under the trailer but I'll go back to the storage yard sometime this week.

Seems to me that if there is 12V when the 110 is hooked up then the converter is working. Because there is plenty of charge in the batteries then issue is something between there and the inside fuse panel. Am I thinking straight so far?

Any thoughts on what to look for/at?

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Old 10-31-2016, 10:27 AM   #2
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There typically is a fuse/circuit breaker on the tongue of the trailer, I would check there first. Funny how a VOM can grow legs and walk...

I have a couple of really good ones, then about half a dozen cheap ones, stashed in various places.


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Old 10-31-2016, 04:12 PM   #3
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Peter Goddu,

I think you're on the right track by starting with that re-settable circuit breaker you identified. If it doesn't reset automatically or have a button to reset it, it may need replacing. Although try bypassing it first to see if the 12V system then works in order to confirm that the breaker was the cause. If your batteries read 12.75V after having been unplugged for many hours, then they are fully charged. By "coach batteries" I assume you meant the trailer batteries? I think the term coach battery is used for the engine starting battery on a motorhome and "house battery" is the term for the deep cycle batteries used by the camper part.

I would also make sure you don't have a battery disconnect switch engaged.
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Old 10-31-2016, 04:25 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by ewarnerusa View Post
I would also make sure you don't have a battery disconnect switch engaged.
This! I have a bad habit of panicking and replacing the most expensive thing possible first, when usually it's something simple.
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Old 10-31-2016, 06:51 PM   #5
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No 12V

I'll check the "fuse" for continuity, then keep pushing on until I hit the converter/fuse panel inside. Interesting comment on the disconnect switch. We have been boaters, and also did own a MH for several years (hence the comment about coach battery). When we bought the trailer (new) I asked for a battery disconnect to be installed, fully expecting a Perko or similar rotary disconnect switch. I asked for it to be put in the forward storage area. What I got was a simple positive action 12V light switch, installed inside the trailer in the cabinet next to the fuse panel. Not what I had in mind but it worked (or not?). It did work last time out but I'll check it.

Thanks for the input.
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