Loss of Battery Voltage on 2018 Coleman Light - Dutchmen Owners

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Old 10-12-2018, 03:39 PM   #1
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Angry Loss of Battery Voltage on 2018 Coleman Light

Is the battery supposed to go dead in 1 week??? When not in use I don't keep it plugged in, but should I have to? I've been to the dealer 4 times since I bought it new in April and they have supposedly "found" something each time to supposedly correct the voltage loss, but the problem persists. This last time they simply said to disconnect the battery, that it is normal for the deep-cycle battery to drop from 12 volts to 3 volts in that short of time. Does anyone else have this problem? Does everyone disconnect their battery or keep it plugged in in-between camping trips? My car can sit for weeks without any loss of power and it has many memories and computers it has to maintain. I'm very frustrated to say the least! Don't know where to turn to next.
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Old 10-12-2018, 04:36 PM   #2
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For one thing, if you have the Interstate battery that comes with the RVs it isn't a true deep cycle battery.

You will lose some voltage due to parasitic draw from the propane detector located near the floor. No telling what else is drawing down the battery in your 2018 but something is.
There may be a battery cut off switch in your RV, if not it would be a good idea to install one. If you have a factory installed switch the propane detector will be by passed and will still draw some power even with the switch off.
The battery may simply be bad. The dealer probably charged it to find the mystery problem but didn't think about putting a load on it to see if it is good.
You can have the battery checked, if bad replace it with real deep cycle batteries or battery.
You can have someone with a VOM check to see how much current is coming out of the battery when it's in its static state. Shouldn't be anything but the detector drawing on the battery when it's static.
If the draw is excessive there is something killing the battery, deeper diagnosis is needed in this case. There is a quick way to determine if an excessive draw is on the battery, not the safest method but it will give an indication.
My money says it's a crappy battery.
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Old 10-12-2018, 05:03 PM   #3
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There are so many items in your RV that require VAMPIRE POWER. stuff like LP alarms, your radio, your TV, the inverter, the console for _____ , those things add up, etc. There were so many I finally added solar so it would maintain the battery, now I'm fine, right as rain, okie dokie, etc.

PS: Your car only has a couple of things that drain the battery at any one time, the alarm system, the radio clock... My Ford Taurus would have a dead battery whenever I left for two weeks or so.
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Old 10-12-2018, 05:15 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by SteveW View Post
Is the battery supposed to go dead in 1 week??? When not in use I don't keep it plugged in, but should I have to? I've been to the dealer 4 times since I bought it new in April and they have supposedly "found" something each time to supposedly correct the voltage loss, but the problem persists. This last time they simply said to disconnect the battery, that it is normal for the deep-cycle battery to drop from 12 volts to 3 volts in that short of time. Does anyone else have this problem? Does everyone disconnect their battery or keep it plugged in in-between camping trips? My car can sit for weeks without any loss of power and it has many memories and computers it has to maintain. I'm very frustrated to say the least! Don't know where to turn to next.



Definitely not. Something is pulling current. Even a "bad" battery would last a week. Probably.........


Everything that is drawing current like the detectors should not kill a battery in a week. We had our trailer at a repair shop last winter and it was still good after 2 months. With no charging whatsoever.


If you have a voltmeter you could test it by pulling fuses and see what is drawing current. But be careful if its more then the meter can handle you will fry it right in your hand. ughh You could go buy a cheap ($10 or free) Harbor Freight meter no big loss. And test it without being plugged into shore power.


Good luck.
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Old 10-12-2018, 05:44 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by franktafl View Post
There are so many items in your RV that require VAMPIRE POWER. stuff like LP alarms, your radio, your TV, the inverter, the console for _____ , those things add up, etc. There were so many I finally added solar so it would maintain the battery, now I'm fine, right as rain, okie dokie, etc.

PS: Your car only has a couple of things that drain the battery at any one time, the alarm system, the radio clock... My Ford Taurus would have a dead battery whenever I left for two weeks or so.

The Coleman probably doesn't have an inverter but it probably does have a converter.
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Old 10-13-2018, 12:37 AM   #6
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Sundancer: Thanks for your reply, I really appreciate it. The battery was replaced by the dealer at the last visit to the service department at Camping World. They have supposedly checked it extensively for draws. One time they said the backup camera, which is factory wired, was wired wrong.
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Old 10-13-2018, 12:42 AM   #7
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Thank you all for replies so far! Very helpful. I'll try to narrow things down using your advice.
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Old 10-13-2018, 10:32 AM   #8
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Thank you all for replies so far! Very helpful. I'll try to narrow things down using your advice.
Good luck! Welcome to the forum. Is WKBW still around?
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Old 10-13-2018, 03:11 PM   #9
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franktafl
Yes WKBW radio and TV is still around. Different format on the radio though, talk radio.
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Old 10-13-2018, 03:18 PM   #10
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franktafl
Yes WKBW radio and TV is still around. Different format on the radio though, talk radio.
Darn, Joe E Reynolds entertained me back in the day...
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Old 10-15-2018, 04:09 PM   #11
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Finding the culprit

Start with a meter like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-Mul...dp/B01K9JD3EQ/

Attach it to the battery per the included instructions.
Write down the current draw stated on the meter.
Pull one 12v fuse from your panel at a time and write down the new number noting which fuse was pulled.
Replace that fuse and pull the next.
Continue this until all the fuses have been cycled through.

You will now have a list of how much parasitic draw is happening on each circuit. The fuse that showed the greatest change in the numbers when you pulled it represents the first circuit to get your attention. It should be clearly marked as to what is on that circuit, but don't expect a great amount of detail. You can turn everything on including outside and pass-through lights, etc., pull that fuse and make note of what is no longer running.

Also, be aware that in some systems there are items that won't pass through your fuse box. Inverters, slide motors, jack motors. etc. I was shocked at the things on our TT that are just wired hot to the battery with only a switch and zero fuse protection. It's even possible that tank sensors, thermostats, etc. may not have been wired through the panel.

I've even read of cases where the charging system was at fault - a bad charger was drawing on the battery when not plugged into shore power.

Best of luck!
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Old 10-17-2018, 09:01 PM   #12
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If you dont already have a Battery Disconnect, I reccomend having one installed.
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Old 10-17-2018, 10:16 PM   #13
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If you dont already have a Battery Disconnect, I reccomend having one installed.
X3 on the Battery Disconnect. I left mine on a few times and the battery was dead each time I came back. Started turning it off, never was dead after that.
Once you have to throw your generator and battery charger in the truck one time to charge your battery to run your power jacks up, you never forget
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Old 10-18-2018, 03:45 PM   #14
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I had the same problem with my 2018 Kodiak 201QB. The battery would go dead in one week because of all the "vampire" draws. I installed a on/off switch on the battery attaching it to the top of the case. Problem solved. You can but a switch for less than $20.00.
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Old 11-07-2018, 06:43 PM   #15
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SO at this point the battery still goes down to 3 + or - volts after a short time. I.ve had it back to camping world 3 or 4 times. I don't know how they can claim they found a problem each time but not have it corrected. I've talked to other camper owners who's battery doesn't go down. Pretty frustrated. I wish they had the Lemon Law for campers.
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Old 11-07-2018, 06:51 PM   #16
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It's just the battery-is it that much of an annoyance? Not sure why they would not put a new battery in it or make a good effort in trying to see what actually is pulling the power causing the issue. Your battery WILL go down over a period of time because of the vampire loads like the TV and the stereo and smoke and propane detectors, control panels, even the inverter/converter itself, etc.

the "well-we-think-we-got-it-this-time" stuff they feed you is just a best guess on their part probably.
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Old 11-07-2018, 06:52 PM   #17
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When winterizing my 2018 unit I discovered very erratic cut-out areas in the wall next to the water heater hidden by the lower bunk bed. Looks like to access the wiring and/or plumbing. Looks like it was cut out by a blind person. I wonder was this done by a tech who was in a hurry when I was in for the electrical problem nor at the manufacturer's when it was made. Also quick-connect wire connectors used, which are considered a temporary connections. LOT OF SHODDY WORK THAT YOU DON'T SEE BEFORE YOU BUY! Wish I could post a picture but it askes for URL address for the picture. Not sure how.
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Old 11-07-2018, 07:23 PM   #18
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When winterizing my 2018 unit I discovered very erratic cut-out areas in the wall next to the water heater hidden by the lower bunk bed. Looks like to access the wiring and/or plumbing. Looks like it was cut out by a blind person. I wonder was this done by a tech who was in a hurry when I was in for the electrical problem nor at the manufacturer's when it was made. Also quick-connect wire connectors used, which are considered a temporary connections. LOT OF SHODDY WORK THAT YOU DON'T SEE BEFORE YOU BUY! Wish I could post a picture but it askes for URL address for the picture. Not sure how.
those kind of holes are all over the RV in places where you can't see them and would never think to look. When I look at the holes they cut for the heater and electrical under where the hot water heater is, if they only had inspectors but they must get paid by the unit and neatness is not their thing.
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Old 11-07-2018, 09:53 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by HouseOfBig View Post
Start with a meter like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-Mul...dp/B01K9JD3EQ/

Attach it to the battery per the included instructions.
Write down the current draw stated on the meter.
Pull one 12v fuse from your panel at a time and write down the new number noting which fuse was pulled.
Replace that fuse and pull the next.
Continue this until all the fuses have been cycled through.

You will now have a list of how much parasitic draw is happening on each circuit. The fuse that showed the greatest change in the numbers when you pulled it represents the first circuit to get your attention. It should be clearly marked as to what is on that circuit, but don't expect a great amount of detail. You can turn everything on including outside and pass-through lights, etc., pull that fuse and make note of what is no longer running.

Also, be aware that in some systems there are items that won't pass through your fuse box. Inverters, slide motors, jack motors. etc. I was shocked at the things on our TT that are just wired hot to the battery with only a switch and zero fuse protection. It's even possible that tank sensors, thermostats, etc. may not have been wired through the panel.

I've even read of cases where the charging system was at fault - a bad charger was drawing on the battery when not plugged into shore power.

Best of luck!

That link is an AC meter only.
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Old 11-09-2018, 03:24 PM   #20
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Thank you for this helpful reply. I did this with a DC meter and saw no significant drop.
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