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Old 08-09-2019, 10:51 PM   #31
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It's time to fire up the microwave, toaster, coffee maker, AC, hot water heater and curling iron
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Old 08-11-2019, 03:22 PM   #32
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Glad you sorted this out. Made way too much sense that it was going to be something like this because the key piece of information to me was the fact that it worked fine for two years or so.

Isnít RV ownership fun?
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Old 08-13-2019, 08:12 PM   #33
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Yes it is! After replacing the main with a dedicated 30 amp, and replacing the single 15 with a duplex 15, no more issues, all breakers are cold now. What I discovered also is that the GFCI was also wired to the same 30/15, and happened to be the circuit the toaster and coffee maker was on. I ran the last few days with the electric water heater going and didn't change anything else around, made coffee, toast, and all breakers were room temp as they should be.



This trailer is going to nickel and dime me, and I don't mind, this was the first major issue I had with it since I got it. The other repairs have been a cracked bathroom vent from hail, $15, and the flapper for the stove hood, $7, hub seal on one wheel, $3. This one was $27. Everything else I have done were improvements, such as replace the cheap ugly plastic kitchen sink with a stainless steel one, replace the too small yet large jackknife sofa with one just a couple inches wider, but full usable width, the Surge Guard, and a memory foam Short Queen for up front. Outside I installed JT Strongarms, huge difference, trailer does not move, and a hitch rack to store the head and bars when not towing.



There were some minor repairs to the cabinet and dinette seat, but that was pennies, only needed some screws and staples. Overall, if this was my worst issue in 4 years camping, I'll take it.



I even got the AC working the way it should, thought I was going to have to replace it because it wasn't cooling the entire trailer, found out the duct to the vents was 90% blocked by the stick on foam they used during installation. I cut it away to open the ducts 100%, and saw dust came out the front vent. Now the AC works great, and saved over $1000 I didn't need to spend.
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Old 08-14-2019, 10:33 PM   #34
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If your running a 100' extension chord you should go one size bigger on the wire. #8 if your trying to pull 30 amps. If your starting out with lower voltage that make the amperage go up which adds to your problem. Every body had good ideas. Also when a circuit is designed its not to designed topull max amperage continuously. We usually go with 80% or 24 amps on a 30amp circuit. If the breaker was very hot to the touch the breaker and maybe the Buss is damaged. I would check Buss and all connections. It would be nice to have a volt and amp meter in our rigs. I have one because I'm a electrician.
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Old 08-15-2019, 12:16 AM   #35
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If your running a 100' extension chord you should go one size bigger on the wire. #8 if your trying to pull 30 amps. If your starting out with lower voltage that make the amperage go up which adds to your problem. Every body had good ideas. Also when a circuit is designed its not to designed topull max amperage continuously. We usually go with 80% or 24 amps on a 30amp circuit. If the breaker was very hot to the touch the breaker and maybe the Buss is damaged. I would check Buss and all connections. It would be nice to have a volt and amp meter in our rigs. I have one because I'm a electrician.

I keep the amps down when hooked up at home by only running the AC and reefer. I do this to keep it dry. I don't intend to run full blast when it is at home, just maintenance mode, so the cable I used will do what I need, that and 8 gauge outdoor flexible cable for this is very hard to find and quite expensive too. At some point I may trench in a 50 Amp post, but for now it does what I need it to, and nothing more.



The issue was a loose connection due to the lug being over tightened and stripped. All is back to normal now.
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Old 08-15-2019, 01:45 PM   #36
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Had the same problem with mine. Never knew when it would trip. Was a weak breaker.

Sometimes it will trip if you place a light finger on the on/off tab.

With it tripping that much I would change. Cheap way to check.

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Old 08-15-2019, 04:12 PM   #37
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Had the same problem. Breaker was weak, happens. Changed and no more problems.

Not saying that's your problem but a good place to start. Breakers are inexpensive. You can also try and see if it trips by putting your finger lightly and apply light pressure. If bad it will go off

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Old 08-17-2019, 07:30 PM   #38
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This one can be marked as RESOLVED! Whew, what a relief too. A local ACE had an EATON brand QP in 30 amp and a duplex 15, so I yanked the 15 and 30/15 breakers out, replaced the 30/15 with a single 30 amp, now it really is the main breaker, and replaced the single 15 with a 15/15 duplex.



It is 105 outside according to my outdoor thermometer, at least that is what the side of my trailer is measuring. The AC is cranked, and keeping it at about 77*, was 74 before I started, but it warms up quickly inside when the door is opened and closed a few times without the AC on.



I fired up the toaster, and the microwave, and lo and behold, the main breaker is ambient after 30 minutes. It was 120 with just the AC going on the old breaker.



Good thing I did this, the case on the old breaker is also cracked. Whoever installed it really cranked down on those two screws.



So now I can relax, finally. I also picked up a new set of spring bars for my Blue Ox since I believe the 1500 bars are hindering instead of helping. They distribute properly, but fail to provide adequate sway protection. two more days of vacation and I plan to enjoy them now that the worries are over.
Gotta love Ace Hardware... when you can find them.

I was working down in Sylvania, GA and the guys tore up a couple of drive belts on a roof cutter. The office had sent spares... the wrong size Found out there was an Ace hardware in town, the name is Possum Eddy Ace Hardware They had them in stock, so we were back in business ASAP.

Aaron
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