Hot main - Page 2 - Dutchmen Owners
Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×

Go Back   Dutchmen Owners > Dutchmen Technical | Towing, Maintenance and Repairs > Electrical, Batteries, Charging and Electronics
Click Here to Login
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 08-09-2019, 03:16 PM   #21
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Capron
Posts: 413
Illinois
Just tripped again, this time the AC and Microwave and nothing else. Total amps 17.9, AC is 1250 (10.4), and 900 (7.5) for the MW. It was hot too. Currently it is running at 121* with just the AC. It's one of those dual breakers, 30 on one leg 15 on the other. So now the search is on for a replacement.
__________________

acdii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2019, 03:23 PM   #22
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Wesley Chapel
Posts: 3,051
Florida
Quote:
Originally Posted by acdii View Post
Just tripped again, this time the AC and Microwave and nothing else. Total amps 17.9, AC is 1250 (10.4), and 900 (7.5) for the MW. It was hot too. Currently it is running at 121* with just the AC. It's one of those dual breakers, 30 on one leg 15 on the other. So now the search is on for a replacement.
picture please. The 30 should be the main breaker for the unit, the 15 is for the plugs.
__________________

franktafl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2019, 03:27 PM   #23
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Capron
Posts: 413
Illinois
Quote:
Originally Posted by franktafl View Post
Question, when you installed your surge protector, was it made for an RV or was it a whole home unit?



Looks like we posted at the same time.


I installed a Surge Guard 35530 hardwire.



It did detect an undervoltage last year when I was running on a 15 amp extension cord that had corroded a bit. Turned on the AC, it ran a bit then CLICK off went the power. I turned it off, then 3 1/2 minutes CLICK, power back on. Plugged in a vacuum and same thing, thats when I discovered the extension cord had fouled where they were connected together. I installed a 30 amp outlet near the barn door, and made a 100' cord from 10/3 with the proper ends, and use that instead now. I made the mistake of running the water heater and the AC while on that cord, and thats when the main tripped for the first time. I have since turned off the breaker for the water heater, and have had the main trip at least 4 times during this trip. I don't know if it got damaged somehow, but considering I have never had these issues since 2016 when I first got the trailer, I doubt it is a normal issue.

acdii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2019, 03:30 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Capron
Posts: 413
Illinois
Quote:
Originally Posted by franktafl View Post
picture please. The 30 should be the main breaker for the unit, the 15 is for the plugs.

I would except internet here sux. Here is the actual breaker that is installed.



Breaker


Quote:
This breaker has a 30 and 15 Amp single pole breakers in one 1 in. housing.
acdii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2019, 03:32 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Wesley Chapel
Posts: 3,051
Florida
have you tried taking it back out of the circuit to see if the issue persists?
franktafl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2019, 03:37 PM   #26
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Capron
Posts: 413
Illinois
I haven't touched anything yet. I am currently searching for a place nearby that may have one. I checked the closest HD, but they are ship to store, so no stock. It is such a PITA to work on and around that panel that I want to do it once, if you know what I mean. I also don't have my square bit driver for the screws. I didn't think I would need my electrical tools with me.
acdii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2019, 03:38 PM   #27
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Wesley Chapel
Posts: 3,051
Florida
check for a high resistance neutral.
franktafl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2019, 09:03 PM   #28
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Capron
Posts: 413
Illinois
Found the problem. Needs a new breaker. I powered down and pulled the panel, and in the process of removing the breaker found that the screw for the input is stripped. This was from the factory, I had cut the line about 2 feet from the panel to install the surge guard.



The 10 gauge wire from the pole is loose in the breaker. Sometimes it's the simplest of things. Now to find a breaker. I went to Lowes and HD, neither carry this particular breaker, but looks like I can get a single 30 & 15 Amp, and just remove the water heater breaker for now, and order the correct breaker for a permanent repair.
acdii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2019, 10:09 PM   #29
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Capron
Posts: 413
Illinois
This one can be marked as RESOLVED! Whew, what a relief too. A local ACE had an EATON brand QP in 30 amp and a duplex 15, so I yanked the 15 and 30/15 breakers out, replaced the 30/15 with a single 30 amp, now it really is the main breaker, and replaced the single 15 with a 15/15 duplex.



It is 105 outside according to my outdoor thermometer, at least that is what the side of my trailer is measuring. The AC is cranked, and keeping it at about 77*, was 74 before I started, but it warms up quickly inside when the door is opened and closed a few times without the AC on.



I fired up the toaster, and the microwave, and lo and behold, the main breaker is ambient after 30 minutes. It was 120 with just the AC going on the old breaker.



Good thing I did this, the case on the old breaker is also cracked. Whoever installed it really cranked down on those two screws.



So now I can relax, finally. I also picked up a new set of spring bars for my Blue Ox since I believe the 1500 bars are hindering instead of helping. They distribute properly, but fail to provide adequate sway protection. two more days of vacation and I plan to enjoy them now that the worries are over.
acdii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2019, 10:13 PM   #30
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Wesley Chapel
Posts: 3,051
Florida
franktafl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2019, 10:51 PM   #31
Senior Member
 
wildwest450's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Sparta
Posts: 1,726
Tennessee
It's time to fire up the microwave, toaster, coffee maker, AC, hot water heater and curling iron
__________________
2014 Aerolite 213 RBSL
2016 Chevrolet Colorado
wildwest450 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2019, 03:22 PM   #32
Senior Member
 
dsol's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Calabasas
Posts: 783
California
Glad you sorted this out. Made way too much sense that it was going to be something like this because the key piece of information to me was the fact that it worked fine for two years or so.

Isn’t RV ownership fun?
__________________
2018 Voltage 3305
dsol is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2019, 08:12 PM   #33
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Capron
Posts: 413
Illinois
Yes it is! After replacing the main with a dedicated 30 amp, and replacing the single 15 with a duplex 15, no more issues, all breakers are cold now. What I discovered also is that the GFCI was also wired to the same 30/15, and happened to be the circuit the toaster and coffee maker was on. I ran the last few days with the electric water heater going and didn't change anything else around, made coffee, toast, and all breakers were room temp as they should be.



This trailer is going to nickel and dime me, and I don't mind, this was the first major issue I had with it since I got it. The other repairs have been a cracked bathroom vent from hail, $15, and the flapper for the stove hood, $7, hub seal on one wheel, $3. This one was $27. Everything else I have done were improvements, such as replace the cheap ugly plastic kitchen sink with a stainless steel one, replace the too small yet large jackknife sofa with one just a couple inches wider, but full usable width, the Surge Guard, and a memory foam Short Queen for up front. Outside I installed JT Strongarms, huge difference, trailer does not move, and a hitch rack to store the head and bars when not towing.



There were some minor repairs to the cabinet and dinette seat, but that was pennies, only needed some screws and staples. Overall, if this was my worst issue in 4 years camping, I'll take it.



I even got the AC working the way it should, thought I was going to have to replace it because it wasn't cooling the entire trailer, found out the duct to the vents was 90% blocked by the stick on foam they used during installation. I cut it away to open the ducts 100%, and saw dust came out the front vent. Now the AC works great, and saved over $1000 I didn't need to spend.
acdii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2019, 10:33 PM   #34
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: San Diego
Posts: 159
California
If your running a 100' extension chord you should go one size bigger on the wire. #8 if your trying to pull 30 amps. If your starting out with lower voltage that make the amperage go up which adds to your problem. Every body had good ideas. Also when a circuit is designed its not to designed topull max amperage continuously. We usually go with 80% or 24 amps on a 30amp circuit. If the breaker was very hot to the touch the breaker and maybe the Buss is damaged. I would check Buss and all connections. It would be nice to have a volt and amp meter in our rigs. I have one because I'm a electrician.
larrypride is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2019, 12:16 AM   #35
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Capron
Posts: 413
Illinois
Quote:
Originally Posted by larrypride View Post
If your running a 100' extension chord you should go one size bigger on the wire. #8 if your trying to pull 30 amps. If your starting out with lower voltage that make the amperage go up which adds to your problem. Every body had good ideas. Also when a circuit is designed its not to designed topull max amperage continuously. We usually go with 80% or 24 amps on a 30amp circuit. If the breaker was very hot to the touch the breaker and maybe the Buss is damaged. I would check Buss and all connections. It would be nice to have a volt and amp meter in our rigs. I have one because I'm a electrician.

I keep the amps down when hooked up at home by only running the AC and reefer. I do this to keep it dry. I don't intend to run full blast when it is at home, just maintenance mode, so the cable I used will do what I need, that and 8 gauge outdoor flexible cable for this is very hard to find and quite expensive too. At some point I may trench in a 50 Amp post, but for now it does what I need it to, and nothing more.



The issue was a loose connection due to the lug being over tightened and stripped. All is back to normal now.
acdii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2019, 01:45 PM   #36
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Malvern
Posts: 62
Arkansas
Had the same problem with mine. Never knew when it would trip. Was a weak breaker.

Sometimes it will trip if you place a light finger on the on/off tab.

With it tripping that much I would change. Cheap way to check.

labill
labill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2019, 04:12 PM   #37
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Malvern
Posts: 62
Arkansas
Had the same problem. Breaker was weak, happens. Changed and no more problems.

Not saying that's your problem but a good place to start. Breakers are inexpensive. You can also try and see if it trips by putting your finger lightly and apply light pressure. If bad it will go off

labill
labill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2019, 07:30 PM   #38
Site Team
 
wahoonc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Sprung Leak
Posts: 3,157
North Carolina
Quote:
Originally Posted by acdii View Post
This one can be marked as RESOLVED! Whew, what a relief too. A local ACE had an EATON brand QP in 30 amp and a duplex 15, so I yanked the 15 and 30/15 breakers out, replaced the 30/15 with a single 30 amp, now it really is the main breaker, and replaced the single 15 with a 15/15 duplex.



It is 105 outside according to my outdoor thermometer, at least that is what the side of my trailer is measuring. The AC is cranked, and keeping it at about 77*, was 74 before I started, but it warms up quickly inside when the door is opened and closed a few times without the AC on.



I fired up the toaster, and the microwave, and lo and behold, the main breaker is ambient after 30 minutes. It was 120 with just the AC going on the old breaker.



Good thing I did this, the case on the old breaker is also cracked. Whoever installed it really cranked down on those two screws.



So now I can relax, finally. I also picked up a new set of spring bars for my Blue Ox since I believe the 1500 bars are hindering instead of helping. They distribute properly, but fail to provide adequate sway protection. two more days of vacation and I plan to enjoy them now that the worries are over.
Gotta love Ace Hardware... when you can find them.

I was working down in Sylvania, GA and the guys tore up a couple of drive belts on a roof cutter. The office had sent spares... the wrong size Found out there was an Ace hardware in town, the name is Possum Eddy Ace Hardware They had them in stock, so we were back in business ASAP.

Aaron
__________________
There is madness to my methods
2015 Coleman CM16FBS(traded) 2016 Concord 300DS
2015 Ford Fusion Hybrid following along
wahoonc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2019, 05:54 AM   #39
New Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Oakville
Posts: 1
Ontario
Quote:
Originally Posted by acdii View Post
This is true, but we have been able to run all three without issues before.



Here is something I did find out though and probably the root cause. The campground we were at had blown a transformer the night before, and was running on reduced power. They had replaced it the night I originally posted, and we have not had an issue since. The breaker does run warm with just the AC on though. I have the fan on all the time, but the compressor only runs as needed. I'm still going to inspect the panel though just to be safe. I may have loosened a connection when I pulled the panel out to install the surge/voltage protector.
where is the electrical panel in a Dutchman RV trailer?
Tonyd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2019, 01:27 PM   #40
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Capron
Posts: 413
Illinois
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonyd View Post
where is the electrical panel in a Dutchman RV trailer?

It sits under the reefer on mine. The enclosure under it is also the cord storage area and inverter location.
__________________

acdii is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Dutchmen RV or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT. The time now is 01:47 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2020 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.
×