Adding 12 Volt and 110 Volt Outlets - Page 2 - Dutchmen Owners
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Old 04-26-2017, 07:44 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by WannaBeFree View Post
Aaron. Those Coleman mods are giving me some great upgrade ideas

Have you ever removed the panels in the cabinetry to access wiring? In the image with the radio there is a highlighted vertical piece of wood screwed in with two screws. I'm thinking that removing that might allow access to the radio wiring. Also in the same image I noticed all of the cabinet bottoms seem to have an inch or two between the outside and inside bottom which I'm guessing allows access for 12V wiring to reach the under cabinet lighting. Have you ever removed the bottom inside a cabinet?

The second image shows wood panels in the bath sink area. There I found two horizontal pieces of wood screwed in which I'm thinking might allow access to the area below. For this mod I'd like to remove the bottom of the sink as the toilet area is very crowded. Before ripping out the cabinet I'd like to see what is happening below. Any suggestions on accessing the paneled over areas below the sink?

To access my water pump I have to lift and hold up the jackknife sofa. I'm guessing there is no way of locking the jackknife sofa in place but thought I would ask as this is not fun

Thanks!
If it is screwed in it should come out pretty easy. There are double bottoms in the most of the overhead cabinets, the only problem is they are stapled together and sometimes glued. You may split or break a section trying to remove it. I did take one of mine apart to mount the fold down Vornado fan that we had. I ended up having to replace the cabinet bottom, but lucked up in that the dealer happened to have a large scrap of the correct color plywood in stock from a ongoing repair. Otherwise I would have had to stain something to match.

They waste a lot of usable space on most RV's.

Cut a broom handle or piece of 1x2 to hold the jack knife sofa up while you are working under it.

Aaron
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Old 04-26-2017, 08:59 PM   #22
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Aaron. Thanks for sharing your experience with removing the panels. I was concerned I might have problems with removing those. And great idea on simply using a piece of wood to prop up the jackknife. I loved the idea you had with jacks under the bed but I think the jackknife may be applying more downward pressure and hopefully I'm only winterizing once a year.
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Old 04-27-2017, 06:13 PM   #23
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What about one like these from Amazon?
First is for mounting over or under a counter, second is surface mount...



https://www.amazon.com/BANDC-Marine-...ual+12v+outlet


https://www.amazon.com/SOLOOP-Cigare...ual+12v+outlet
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Old 04-27-2017, 06:38 PM   #24
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I don't see any reason that those wouldn't do the job.

Aaron[emoji41]

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Old 04-28-2017, 01:53 AM   #25
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Thanks Hoosier Daddy.

I really like https://www.amazon.com/SOLOOP-Cigare.../dp/B01HULC00E. I found this one previously but after thinking about it I realized it would be a good idea to mount it in an electrical box. A downside of this one is finding an electrical box to fit it, cutting out a hole in the trailer's side large enough to accommodate it, and making it waterproof. This should work but your other option, I didn't find, looks better.

Your other option, https://www.amazon.com/BANDC-Marine-.../dp/B00NLFFTK2, could be mounted plugs down on the side of the trailer with just a small hole for the 12V wires to enter the housing. I'm thinking if I mount this on some butyl tape and liberally coat the perimeter and screws with silicon water penetration should not be a problem.

Thanks!
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Old 04-28-2017, 02:20 AM   #26
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Thanks Hoosier Daddy.

I really like https://www.amazon.com/SOLOOP-Cigare.../dp/B01HULC00E. I found this one previously but after thinking about it I realized it would be a good idea to mount it in an electrical box. A downside of this one is finding an electrical box to fit it, cutting out a hole in the trailer's side large enough to accommodate it, and making it waterproof. This should work but your other option, I didn't find, looks better.

Your other option, https://www.amazon.com/BANDC-Marine-.../dp/B00NLFFTK2, could be mounted plugs down on the side of the trailer with just a small hole for the 12V wires to enter the housing. I'm thinking if I mount this on some butyl tape and liberally coat the perimeter and screws with silicon water penetration should not be a problem.

Thanks!
Would not either one of them fit in a weatherproof electrical box? Maybe an 'in use' weatherproof box would work with a little modification.
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Old 04-28-2017, 03:10 AM   #27
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Good idea sundancer 87. A weatherproof electrical box might accommodate either one of them.
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Old 04-29-2017, 12:46 PM   #28
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Since you liked that style, depending on what you are going to use it for, You can also get them with USB ports for charging phones / Ipods and such. Even with a digital voltage meter so you can monitor you batteries power if Boondocking. Because they are Marine rated they should be weatherproof. Because the socket is round and mounts in a hole of the case you can orient it so the wording is "up right".

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Voltm...3469275&sr=1-8

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Old 04-30-2017, 02:20 AM   #29
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Thanks Hoosier Daddy,

I was thinking of adding something like https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Charger.../dp/B00M6QODH2 to the 12V sockets. This type of plug is more expensive as it is flush - you could leave it in the socket and use the cover when not in use outside. When you add the cost of the USB plug and a housing without USB it gets closer to the housing that you suggested and the one you suggested even has a 12V voltmeter. With the voltmeter you don't need to even leave your chair under your awning to check the voltage. That is cool!

Thanks!
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Old 04-30-2017, 11:27 AM   #30
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I think I even talked myself into one.
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