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Old 12-21-2013, 03:27 AM   #1
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Shower Head

Hey all....I want to talk about RV shower heads. I have a Voltage 3905 (doesn't really make a difference) and the factory shower head drips a bit when you turn it off. I replaced it with one that doesn't drip.

So, what I am getting to is this. When you have the water temperature set just right and turn the water off at the shower head. I find that if I am using the head that shuts the water off completely and open the flow, I get a blast of hot water. If I shut the water off at the head with the one that drips, I get a blast of cold water.

How about it folks. Have any of you had the same experience and if so, is there a cure for this.

Thanks
Arlan
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Old 12-21-2013, 05:06 AM   #2
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Mine does exactly the same thing. Unfortunately I don't have a fix for it though.
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Old 12-21-2013, 05:20 AM   #3
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Mine does exactly the same thing. Unfortunately I don't have a fix for it though.
Hot or cold?
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Old 12-21-2013, 06:53 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by arlan in arizona View Post
How about it folks. Have any of you had the same experience and if so, is there a cure for this.
I am still using the shower head that came with the Voltage and it drips. It also gives me a blast of cold water when I turn it back on at the shower head. If a no-drip head fixes the problem, I want one.
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Old 12-21-2013, 01:12 PM   #5
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Hot or cold?
HOT! Hot enough to burn.
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Old 12-21-2013, 02:48 PM   #6
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I am still using the shower head that came with the Voltage and it drips. It also gives me a blast of cold water when I turn it back on at the shower head. If a no-drip head fixes the problem, I want one.
My findings are that a no-drip head give me a blast of hot. The blast of cold is better in my opinion. I don't know what the fix is.
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Old 12-21-2013, 02:52 PM   #7
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HOT! Hot enough to burn.
Is your shower head a drip style or no drip. From my experience that seem be the difference whether it is resumes flow cold or hot. I had a slide-in truck camper for 15 years with a no drip head. It always was a blast of hot.
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Old 12-21-2013, 03:01 PM   #8
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Cold blast from the OEM head for me.
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Old 12-21-2013, 03:25 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Sinecure View Post
HOT! Hot enough to burn.
How about you Sinecure, what shower head are you using. I am trying to come up with a cure () for this.
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Old 12-21-2013, 04:19 PM   #10
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I had a single handle mixing chamber in the shower in my solar house. I had a shut off valve on the flexible hose but it was located at the outlet tube instead of the spray head.

When water flow was resumed it was very close to what is was when I had shut it off. This makes me wonder if the blast of cold or hot water is effected by the location of the shut off valve.

When I get back to my rig I think I will try and place a shut off valve at the mixing chamber and not use the one on the OEM spray head.
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Old 12-21-2013, 04:27 PM   #11
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I bought an inline shower shutoff valve for my Oxygenics shower head from the hardware store a few weeks ago. The hardware store guy told me that it will still allow a drip by design, because if you do a complete shutoff the hot water pressure will overcome the cold water pressure and when you open the valve again you'll get the blast of scalding hot. The drip style is supposed to alleviate this, although a blast of cold is not the same as being the same temp as pre-shutoff! I think the hot pressure overcomes the cold because typically we run showers with the hot valve full open and the cold valve opened just enough to achieve the desired temp. The hot water supply to the shower head has more pressure.
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Old 12-21-2013, 04:43 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinecure View Post
HOT! Hot enough to burn.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sundancer 87 View Post
I had a single handle mixing chamber in the shower in my solar house. I had a shut off valve on the flexible hose but it was located at the outlet tube instead of the spray head.

When water flow was resumed it was very close to what is was when I had shut it off. This makes me wonder if the blast of cold or hot water is effected by the location of the shut off valve.

When I get back to my rig I think I will try and place a shut off valve at the mixing chamber and not use the one on the OEM spray head.
Yes, I am going to try that again. I have an oxygenics shower head that has a shut of valve that located down there. I never used the oxygenics head as it dripped and I did not like the look of it. I may give it another try and do some testing when I am home and have plenty of water and my RV dump. The oxygenics shut off was not that user friendly with soapy hands
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Old 12-21-2013, 05:03 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by ewarnerusa View Post
I bought an inline shower shutoff valve for my Oxygenics shower head from the hardware store a few weeks ago. The hardware store guy told me that it will still allow a drip by design, because if you do a complete shutoff the hot water pressure will overcome the cold water pressure and when you open the valve again you'll get the blast of scalding hot. The drip style is supposed to alleviate this, although a blast of cold is not the same as being the same temp as pre-shutoff! I think the hot pressure overcomes the cold because typically we run showers with the hot valve full open and the cold valve opened just enough to achieve the desired temp. The hot water supply to the shower head has more pressure.
I can't go along with what the hardware store guy says. My entire house was pressurized with the same style 12 volt demand pump we have in the rigs. Hot water was created by an old six gallon RV water heater. Since it was a solar house and I had to haul water from nearby ranches I couldn't afford to waste even a drop of water so a complete shut off was necessary or waste more water mixing water yet again which wasn't an option.

The water was completely shut off at the valve located inline between the outlet tube and the flex hose. Later on I changed out the old RV propane tank water heater for a Rheem on demand water heater. No change at all.

The 12 volt demand pump in the rigs only pressure up to 40 lbs and that pressure is held there until a valve is opened. Perhaps because hot water is, well, hot, it would rise but if that water is static I don't see how a hot blast would happen. Hot water does have more pressure than cold so the drip/no drip condition may be the factor of whether one gets burned or frozen when water flow is resumed.

This was my experience for 20 years using the shut off valve inline as mentioned above.

Now I'm wondering if one couldn't install a single handle faucet in that access hole in the shower wall. One would have to remove the two knob thing and blank the holes with something. I see in my head one could add a riser and have a set up like one may have in a normal house. It definitely will be worth a study to overcome this hot/cold problem we seem to have.
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Old 12-21-2013, 05:04 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by ewarnerusa View Post
I bought an inline shower shutoff valve for my Oxygenics shower head from the hardware store a few weeks ago. The hardware store guy told me that it will still allow a drip by design, because if you do a complete shutoff the hot water pressure will overcome the cold water pressure and when you open the valve again you'll get the blast of scalding hot. The drip style is supposed to alleviate this, although a blast of cold is not the same as being the same temp as pre-shutoff! I think the hot pressure overcomes the cold because typically we run showers with the hot valve full open and the cold valve opened just enough to achieve the desired temp. The hot water supply to the shower head has more pressure.
I was told the same thing by the guy at the hardware store. You just said the exact same thing I have been thinking. I still need to experiment with this and see if anything can be done about it.
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Old 12-21-2013, 05:07 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by sundancer 87 View Post
I can't go along with what the hardware store guy says. My entire house was pressurized with the same style 12 volt demand pump we have in the rigs. Hot water was created by an old six gallon RV water heater. Since it was a solar house and I had to haul water from nearby ranches I couldn't afford to waste even a drop of water so a complete shut off was necessary or waste more water mixing water yet again which wasn't an option.

The water was completely shut off at the valve located inline between the outlet tube and the flex hose. Later on I changed out the old RV propane tank water heater for a Rheem on demand water heater. No change at all.

The 12 volt demand pump in the rigs only pressure up to 40 lbs and that pressure is held there until a valve is opened. Perhaps because hot water is, well, hot, it would rise but if that water is static I don't see how a hot blast would happen. Hot water does have more pressure than cold so the drip/no drip condition may be the factor of whether one gets burned or frozen when water flow is resumed.

This was my experience for 20 years using the shut off valve inline as mentioned above.

Now I'm wondering if one couldn't install a single handle faucet in that access hole in the shower wall. One would have to remove the two knob thing and blank the holes with something. I see in my head one could add a riser and have a set up like one may have in a normal house. It definitely will be worth a study to overcome this hot/cold problem we seem to have.
That sounds like a great idea. Why don't YOU do it first and let me know if it worked.

Thanks everyone for the replies
Arlan
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Old 12-21-2013, 05:15 PM   #16
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That sounds like a great idea. Why don't YOU do it first and let me know if it worked.

Thanks everyone for the replies
Arlan
I will give it a study next month when I get my rig back from the dealership. I've looked in that hole and that's where the PEX lines are and that hole looks to be the correct size to install a single lever in there. Might have to run the riser through the soap dish, behind whatever that clear plastic rod does, but that exposure can be overcome with something.

It's my thinking that that shower liner was made to be just that and not necessarily fabricated for the RV industry. I could be wrong, I was once.

I don't like the cold wave hitting me unless the ambient temperature is 150 degrees outside!
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Old 12-21-2013, 05:23 PM   #17
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I don't like the cold wave hitting me unless the ambient temperature is 150 degrees outside!
It would feel colder if it were that hot. I do find that the blast of cold is better than the blast of hot. You can just put your hand over the spray and get cold water running down your arm. Hot is worse. PM me in the future if you do this mod or reply on this thread so I don't miss your finding. Have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
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Old 12-22-2013, 03:39 PM   #18
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How about you Sinecure, what shower head are you using. I am trying to come up with a cure () for this.

I didn't know that there were drip and no-drip styles. I thought the ones that dripped were defective. I'm fairly certain mine doesn't drip though.
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Old 12-22-2013, 05:54 PM   #19
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I didn't know that there were drip and no-drip styles. I thought the ones that dripped were defective. I'm fairly certain mine doesn't drip though.
I didn't know that either. My old RV shower head did NOT drip and I got a blast of hot water. The new RV does drip and I get a blast of cold. When I replaced dripping one with a non dripping I get hot instead of cold. Maybe one that drips a tiny bit less.
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Old 12-22-2013, 09:09 PM   #20
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I must be eating too many Jam Jam cookies these days as I couldn't figure out why we don't have this problem in our camper. It then occurred to me that we point the wand towards the shower floor until we get the proper temperature set and then place the wand into the holder while we shower. Now if I could only figure out a solution for the soft shower floor we would really be set.
By the way a person can never eat too many Jam Jam cookies as I'm a walking testament to that.
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