no interior lights with shore power ? - Dutchmen Owners

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Old 12-26-2014, 07:22 PM   #1
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no interior lights with shore power ?

2011 Voltage V3200 TH

The TV and microwave run fine using shore power but no interior lights ? While plugged in to shore power ( batteries out for winter ) I hit the generater button by mistake .. now I have no 110 interior lights. I've checked the braker / fuse panel and everything appears fine. They work fine if I install the battery and use 12 volt ... are there any other breakers / fuses that I missed ??
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Old 12-26-2014, 08:22 PM   #2
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2011 Voltage V3200 TH

The TV and microwave run fine using shore power but no interior lights ? While plugged in to shore power ( batteries out for winter ) I hit the generater button by mistake .. now I have no 110 interior lights. I've checked the braker / fuse panel and everything appears fine. They work fine if I install the battery and use 12 volt ... are there any other breakers / fuses that I missed ??
I don't think you have 110 volt AC lights in your rig. They should be 12 volt DC, that's why they work when the batteries are installed.
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Old 12-26-2014, 08:23 PM   #3
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Yeah, all of the interior lights in my 3200 are DC power.
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Old 12-26-2014, 08:40 PM   #4
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I very much appreciate the replies, I just purchased the unit and thought I had done something stupid that was going to cost me $$$$ !! Am I right in saying that while plugged in to 110 volt the converter keeps the batteries charged ? If this is right then would it be best to leave batteries in the trailer and just keep it plugged in while not in use ? Tks again for your assistance !!!
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Old 12-26-2014, 08:57 PM   #5
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I don't remove my battery and I keep the trailer plugged in to shore power. When I won't be using it for a while, I disconnect from shore power and turn the battery supply switch off.
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Old 12-27-2014, 04:20 AM   #6
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I very much appreciate the replies, I just purchased the unit and thought I had done something stupid that was going to cost me $$$$ !! Am I right in saying that while plugged in to 110 volt the converter keeps the batteries charged ? If this is right then would it be best to leave batteries in the trailer and just keep it plugged in while not in use ? Tks again for your assistance !!!
We installed a 30 Amp RV outdoor outlet in the back yard, where we park the rig. I keep it plugged in all the time. The converter has at least 3 stages of charge, you can tell by the fan coming on when you start running lights. The water level in the battery is good, but check it every month or so. I pre-chill the fridge with AC before a trip, and turn the AC on a very low setting when it gets hot and humid, to keep the interior OK. If you're not going to install an outlet, then just keep it plugged into a (normal) 20 or 15 amp outlet, but just to keep the converter alive. Don't try to run AC or fridge from it.
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Old 12-27-2014, 11:54 AM   #7
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Great information, tks. Would you be able to tell me where the converter is located in the V3200?
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Old 12-27-2014, 12:43 PM   #8
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Your converter should be located under the bathroom & bedroom flooring.

To get to it, you'll need to remove the walls inside your basement storage area. Here's a photo of what you should find behind the walls... and if I'm correct, the grey box is your converter.

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Old 12-27-2014, 01:08 PM   #9
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Tks so much .. guess I have some work a head of me but at least I'm heading in the right direction.

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Old 12-27-2014, 01:24 PM   #10
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Your converter should be located under the bathroom & bedroom flooring.

To get to it, you'll need to remove the walls inside your basement storage area. Here's a photo of what you should find behind the walls... and if I'm correct, the grey box is your converter.

There are two boxes back there...your converter and the transfer switch. One is hanging up and the other is on the deck....lots and lots of wires. The one with really big wires will be the transfer switch, so it can swap between generator and shore power...it is laying right near the plumbing. I am planning on hanging it next to the converter and cleaning that area up somewhat.

On edit, you can see the transfer switch just to the right of the vacuum.

Cale
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Old 12-27-2014, 01:52 PM   #11
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There are two boxes back there...your converter and the transfer switch. One is hanging up and the other is on the deck....lots and lots of wires. The one with really big wires will be the transfer switch, so it can swap between generator and shore power...it is laying right near the plumbing. I am planning on hanging it next to the converter and cleaning that area up somewhat.

On edit, you can see the transfer switch just to the right of the vacuum.

Cale
Location and color of component is not to be construed as common placement or common anything. Look for boxes with big wires and then determine what it is.

The blind installers will put things where they'll fit. Mine are in a completely different place but they are in the basement.
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Old 12-27-2014, 04:36 PM   #12
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In my opinion which really doesn't matter! Putting the transfer switch or any other electrical components directly near water inlets on the floor not elevated is just stupid. Do you here me Dutchman, Keystone, or whomever is making them this week!
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Old 12-27-2014, 05:28 PM   #13
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I...Do you here me Dutchman, Keystone, or whomever is making them this week!
Dude, chill out. Dutchmen, Keystone, whoever... they don't care. The RV business is booming, and they're moving units.

You gotta remember... there are NO gov't regulations regarding how these things are built. No construction codes, no electrical codes, no plumbing codes. The only code our rigs must adhere to is DOT in re brakes, running lights, and weight ratings.

These are mass-production units. I admit that I haven't been RV'ing very long... but it's already become apparent to me that the quality rigs live up in the $200k & above range. Mobile Suites, the high-end Redwoods, a few others and the custom-build models.

While I like my Voltage, and very well may end up trading for another at some point... I have figured out that what I really have is in the Chevy Vega - Ford Pinto range of RV vehicles. Not the Lincoln or Cadillac range.
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Old 12-27-2014, 06:12 PM   #14
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Dude, chill out. Dutchmen, Keystone, whoever... they don't care. The RV business is booming, and they're moving units.

You gotta remember... there are NO gov't regulations regarding how these things are built. No construction codes, no electrical codes, no plumbing codes. The only code our rigs must adhere to is DOT in re brakes, running lights, and weight ratings.

These are mass-production units. I admit that I haven't been RV'ing very long... but it's already become apparent to me that the quality rigs live up in the $200k & above range. Mobile Suites, the high-end Redwoods, a few others and the custom-build models.

While I like my Voltage, and very well may end up trading for another at some point... I have figured out that what I really have is in the Chevy Vega - Ford Pinto range of RV vehicles. Not the Lincoln or Cadillac range.



Tom "dude" I am chilled.... I'm aware there's no codes involved. It's important for manufacturers to here from owners of their products and read comments on concerns. Believe it or not! They monitor these types of sites and make subtle changes as a result of certain comments. As far as Pinto vs Cadillac ..... I've seen cheaper trailers that aren't wired or plumbed nearly as shabby. Common since would say! Should we maybe move this electrical switch away from this area just in case it springs a leak? Duh! No its okay here move on...

60k for my trailer too me is a lot of bucks.... if I had known what it looked like behind those walls I may have moved on. But since I've put things in a safer place its okay. Heck, I've even installed halon systems behind walls as a defense against fires. I'm not new to RV'S motorhomes, busses you name it. I have noticed through the years the quality is not where it should be this day and time with the technology available to us. Your right they dont care, and will care less as long as folks think its okay for substandard builds and no ones really saying anything about it. Its cool, not like we paid 200k... I'm good

As far as meeting DOT standards, I'm not sure all their units meet those requirements either. The sticker the manufacturer places on the side doesn't mean its certified DOT.
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Old 12-27-2014, 06:13 PM   #15
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Sorry, didn't mean to hijack thread...
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Old 12-27-2014, 11:45 PM   #16
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In my opinion which really doesn't matter! Putting the transfer switch or any other electrical components directly near water inlets on the floor not elevated is just stupid. Do you here me Dutchman, Keystone, or whomever is making them this week!
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You gotta remember... there are NO gov't regulations regarding how these things are built. No construction codes, no electrical codes, no plumbing codes. The only code our rigs must adhere to is DOT in re brakes, running lights, and weight ratings.
Actually there is a set of standards that they are SUPPOSED to be built too. RVIA however from what I gather outside of the NFPA1192 requirements, the standards are voluntary. Also, apparently the standards must be pretty loose because I can't find where anyone has ever successfully sued a manufacturer for violating those standards.

Even the higher end units have QC issues, and the manufacturers really don't care. It seems that the ones that did are no longer in business. Brands like Sunline, Grand Teton, Glendale and Avion. There are still some decent brands out there in the lower price point end of the market, but they seem to only reach regional markets. Also the volume dealers aren't going to want to carry them because the markup is lower and they can't get enough units.

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Old 01-06-2015, 05:56 PM   #17
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Got the converter out and ordered a new one, hope my diagnostics are right .. so much to learn, so little time !! Tks for your help ..
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Old 01-14-2015, 12:41 AM   #18
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Something to remember is that the converter is a limited current supply when compared to the battery. If you are on shore power without the battery connected to the DC system and still using the original 921 incandescent lamps in the light fixtures, the DC converter will cut off on short circuit protection until the apparent short circuit (lamp) is removed from the circuit. With the battery connected to the DC system, it's high internal impedance prevents the short circuit protection from occurring.
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Old 01-16-2015, 03:58 PM   #19
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Got the converter out and ordered a new one, hope my diagnostics are right .. so much to learn, so little time !! Tks for your help ..
I just read through this thread and I'm curious as to why you are replacing the converter? What I gathered was that you had removed your 12V batteries which resulted in your 12V interior lights no longer functioning. The first troubleshooting item to try would be to hook your batteries back up.

It is true that while plugged into shore power your converter will be on and providing 12V power to the trailer. Some converters require that the batteries be in the circuit to function and others do not. See Mole's post above. It could be the case that with your trailer, you need the batteries in the loop in order for the converter to function. That would suggest that converter is functioning just fine, but you need the batteries in the circuit for the 12V power to be available.
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Old 01-16-2015, 05:36 PM   #20
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ewarnerusa .. tks for the thought's .. I did cross my fingers and install the batteries, unfortunately same results. I took a tester and checked the converter to see if 12 volts was coming out of it and nothing. Purchased a new converter and all is good. Sure learned a lot from this site from a lot of good people .. tks all !!
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