Leveling Tandems - Dutchmen Owners

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Old 12-10-2012, 08:35 PM   #1
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Leveling Tandems

We are picking up a ntu 2010 Dutchmen Classic Camper and was wanting to know some info on leveling tandem axles. We have upgraded from a pop-up and had a bal leveler but in looking for info on leveling tandems info seems limited. Any help would be greatly apprciated. Thanks! Hope this is the right forum to place this request.
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:10 PM   #2
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wanting to know some info on leveling tandem axles.
I'll start off by saying I don't know anything about this. When the trailer is off the hitch, you control the degree of being level by using the tongue jack. Then you select the height of the ball and by using a weight distribution hitch, you maintain the degree of being level.

Guys, is there some adjustment in the vicinity of the tandem axles on some trailers that also controls being level????
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:23 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pf32450 View Post
We are picking up a ntu 2010 Dutchmen Classic Camper and was wanting to know some info on leveling tandem axles. We have upgraded from a pop-up and had a bal leveler but in looking for info on leveling tandems info seems limited. Any help would be greatly apprciated. Thanks! Hope this is the right forum to place this request.
That's a very good question.

I usually back my rig into the spot where my wife would like to see it set for the duration of our camping expedition. Once there, I take a level and place it either on the rear bumper or level area inside the camper floor. At this point we're checking for side to side level. Later we'll look at front to rear. If one side is down or unlevel then I will pull the camper forward about the lenghth of the tandems. I'll place a board or a plank on that particular side that's low, that we want to bring up, then back the camper onto the board or plank and check the level again. If we don't have it right then we'll repeat the process. Once the side to side is level we disconnect the camper from the truck or car and then level front to rear with the front jack and rear jacks until level.

Hopefully, this was helpfull. Happy Camping.

Dave & Patty
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Old 12-11-2012, 12:27 AM   #4
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Thank you for your rapid response. I guess I should clarify that what I was looking for was when we get to campsite and setting up. I guess my real question is do you roll both wheels onto the plank for side to side leveling or are you able to just run one wheel onto plank? Sorry I did not make myself as clear as I should have. And again thanks for your quick response.
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Old 12-11-2012, 01:02 AM   #5
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[QUOTE=Le51a;3634]That's a very good question. QUOTE]

See, it's always good to confess your ignorance.

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Old 12-11-2012, 03:19 AM   #6
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Both wheels should be elevated.
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Old 12-11-2012, 10:31 AM   #7
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RE:Leveling Tandems

pf32450,

What Wanderer said.

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Old 12-11-2012, 02:05 PM   #8
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Thanks that helps a bunch.
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Old 12-12-2012, 10:28 PM   #9
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I've been in situations where elevating both axels was more than I needed and have just done one. Your suspension is basically independent, so it shouldn't hurt. I wouldn't do just one for a great amount of leveling.

Not to jack your thread, but I've also changed flat tires by just elevating the one axel high enough for the other to clear the ground. Sure beats dragging a jack out!
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Old 03-18-2013, 01:04 AM   #10
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I agree with Hut. Our TH has triple axles and like any other tandem axle setup I have seen has equalizers between the axles. If you have a flat you put a jack under one axle and jack it up to change the tire, the equalizer accommodates that movement. I have always carried an assortment of short 2X6's and varied the stack to achieve a level condition. I ran across a pair of small bubble stick-on levels with screw holes and after leveling the rig I screwed them to the left front corner, one front to back the other across the front by the jack switch. These neat little suckers have numbers on them the equals the off level condition. If the bubble in on 1, block the low side up one inch and if it's 2, add two inches ------ you get the idea. Ok each 2X6 is actually 1.5 inches thick so if I need 3/4 of an inch I put one of my blocks under 1 axle, if I need to raise 2 and a quarter it's 2 blocks and 1 block and so on. I think there is also a 3/4 board or two in there as well. I use treated lumber for my blocks cause bugs don't like to chew on them.
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