D-Ring tie downs in the garage - Dutchmen Owners

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Old 04-10-2016, 03:00 AM   #1
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D-Ring tie downs in the garage

We have a 2014 Voltage Epic 3800. The tie downs in the garage are not bad, but with a 900 lb Polaris RZR 800 tied down the rings are deforming badly. Moving p to a Polaris General that weighs around 1600 lbs. So decided heavier D-Rings are needed.

My plan is to install five. Three across the front and two at the back of the garage. The three at the front will be for two tie down straps and one to hook the winch to.

A little more on the front three. The two outside ones will be placed so that the door to the living area and the door to the garage bathroom can be opened with the straps in place tying down the new Side-by-Side. It been a PITA not being able to open the doors once the machine was in. Moving the D-rings in some shouldn't make any difference. There is still plenty of "spread": in the tie downs and reality says the goal is to keep the machine from moving back and forth. The center D-Ring will be placed in the center of the garage and inline with the other two new ones.

A bit more on the to rear ones. The existing tie downs are spaced so wide that the straps have been in contact with the rear tires. And on one trip, a strap failed due to the rubbing. So I have moved the new ones in so there is still plenty of spread, no interference with the sides of the "tool box" in the dove tail.

So here we go! First thing was to make sure there was no interference with anything under the floor. On a 3800 the belly skin ends at the structural cross piece about 10" forward of the center of the spare tire hanger. The belly skin is 78 inches wide at that point. Here's a pic:



I made several marks 39 inches from one side, so down the middle, and then used a straight edge to make a cut line. Just used a utility knife to slit the belly material and a layer of reflective aluminum foil. Here's a pic of the underside of the garage floor, as you can see its empty space:

From the cross member where the belly skin ends, to the rear face of the black water tank is 59.75 inches. Where the original tie downs are located, the long self tapping screw went through a small cross member. I opted to make sure none of my bolts would go through any structural member as they will be 3/8" bolts!

I'm a PlasmaCam owner and heck of an Autodesk Inventor designer. So I took one of the new D-Rings and designed a template for cutting the holes in the basement floor. Which by the way is 7/8" OSB with a 1/16" rubber cover. So pretty thick stuff. My template has matching holes for the ones in the D-Ring, so I used strips of gorilla tape to hold the template in place, drilled the four holes an inserted the bolts: Here's a pic of the template in place:

I used a Roto Zip saw with 5/32 collet and blue label bits for cutting OSB. Make sure the cutting edges of the bit start below the .120" thick template. Remove one bolt at a time to allow the Roto Zip face to rest on the template while cutting in that area. So to make the entire cut, each of the four bolts will need to be removed...but one at a time. So, remove one, cut that area, put the bolt back in and pull the next, etc.
Here's a pic of the partially made cut. Also note that I drilled an extra 3/8" hole just on the inside of the template to provide a starting point for the Roto Zip saw.

Here's a completed cut with the floor section removed.

Here is a D-Ring installed and the four carriage bolts in place.


On the underside, I use a 6" square backing plate with 5/8" holes, flat washers and Nylock nuts:



Here's a pic of the new front three D-Rings installed and my Supervisor Randall checking the work:


Repeated five times and all done! I did get replacements for the original tie downs and installed them. What else to do with a 3" diameter hole in the floor?

For fear of running out of room. If you would like dimensions of D-Ring positions, I can provide them. If you're interested in my templates and backing plates. Let me know. Project went just outstanding!!

PIrate
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Old 04-10-2016, 09:20 AM   #2
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Nice! I may add some just have extras, but out D-rings still look good after tying down our 900XP4 several times. I can't open the door no matter what as there is about 2" in front of and behind our! LOL. Also, I hook up tie downs from front frame of RZR to rear tie downs and from rear frame of RZR to front tie downs - no movement. I wonder if that makes a difference in the stress on the tie downs and why maybe mine aren't deformed at all? Hmmm
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Old 04-10-2016, 03:38 PM   #3
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I've seen lots of different ways to "run" the tie downs. Me, just two in front going forward and two in the rear going to the rear.

We did spend a lot of time, a couple of years actually, looking for a Toyhauler that had what we wanted. The 14 ft garage, the big bathroom with a shower stall, a walk around bed in the bedroom, the nice size wardrobe cabinets, a big refrigerator...and probably more, my not quite awake, brain can't recall. The Voltage Epic III had all of them and more.

Perhaps part of my fetish for pulling tie downs really tight...we had rear strap break. I think due to rubbing on the rear tire...and that RZR800, parking brake on, three straps...and it danced all around in the garage an did damage on all four sides!! That was about $3000 in repairs and I did a lot of them myself. So 6000 lb rated tie downs, facing such that the pull is with the ring, not standing it up and pulling backwards on it.

Just me!

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Old 04-10-2016, 03:42 PM   #4
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Pirate, Great Job, I have been planing to add some more D-Rings also, The Can-Am is also large like your new General
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Old 04-10-2016, 10:47 PM   #5
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Ouch on damage. Main reason I strap down the way I do is just the length of the RZR vs the length of the garage. I do think I'll still add more tie downs. If I go with the heavier ones, like you, I'll use those for the RZR and the OE ones for our extras that we carry
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Old 04-11-2016, 02:03 AM   #6
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Don,

And if you would like one of my templates for cutting the holes in the floor and my backing plates for the underside. Just let me know.

I suggest getting my template before buying the D-Rings...then you'll know they are the same. There are some different D-Rings out there.

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Old 04-11-2016, 03:34 PM   #7
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I travel with a 900 pound Harley in the garage and the D-rings are fine. Wonder why yours are having issues?
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Old 04-11-2016, 04:19 PM   #8
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Pirate,

Your new D-rings look like they could hold a Mac truck. Nice

If I may offer a suggestion, as your floor is OSB I would add a piece of plywood across the frame for added support. I have seen stuff mounted on OSB where there is alot of tension and the surrounding OSB fails. If your like me, I get the suspension on the quads compressed then give another couple of clicks on the ratchet straps.
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Old 04-12-2016, 12:47 AM   #9
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The two original D-rings that are failing are the two at the very rear, mounted on the beavertail. They are so far apart that my ratchet straps holding the back end of the RZR were literally pulling sideways on the ring...thus those extra couple of clicks pulled hard an deformed the ring.

I went with the heavier D-rings...just cuz... I also set them closer together so that the pull would be inline with the D-ring, and if off a bit...still pulling on a round, hell for stout ring.

Jim, if you look at the pics, I put a 6" x 6" backing plate on the underside, tight up against the OSB garage floor to distribute the pulling forces. With 7/8" OSB and the steel plates...I kinda doubt I could pull one of the new D-rings out of the floor!! But I did give that issue some thought!!

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Old 04-12-2016, 03:44 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pirate View Post
The two original D-rings that are failing are the two at the very rear, mounted on the beavertail. They are so far apart that my ratchet straps holding the back end of the RZR were literally pulling sideways on the ring...thus those extra couple of clicks pulled hard an deformed the ring.

I went with the heavier D-rings...just cuz... I also set them closer together so that the pull would be inline with the D-ring, and if off a bit...still pulling on a round, hell for stout ring.

Jim, if you look at the pics, I put a 6" x 6" backing plate on the underside, tight up against the OSB garage floor to distribute the pulling forces. With 7/8" OSB and the steel plates...I kinda doubt I could pull one of the new D-rings out of the floor!! But I did give that issue some thought!!

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Pirate,

I did see the backing plates and they look substantial, but I have seen D-rings pulled right out backing plate and all, leaving a hole about the size of a basketball. That set up was a bit different than yours, the D-rings were on a vertical wall and the tie downs were pulling on the horizontal.

Your setup most likely won't put the same amount of stress on the OSB as that one. I just thought I would mention it.
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Old 04-13-2016, 02:07 AM   #11
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Jim,

Thanks for the explanation. The floor in the garage, OSB and the rubber cover is 1" thick. So it would probably take a heck of a pull to pull it through. But I added the backing plates just for good measure!

Mounted on a wall, probably not nearly as secure.

I'm trying to figure out how to mount cabinets on the wall in the garage...with no framing behind where the cabinet going to be mounted. Figuring on using butterfly clips to the wall and securely connect the end of the new cabinet to the end of the existing cabinet.
Gads, no framing above the window or door in the garage!!

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Old 04-13-2016, 03:09 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Pirate View Post
Jim,

Thanks for the explanation. The floor in the garage, OSB and the rubber cover is 1" thick. So it would probably take a heck of a pull to pull it through. But I added the backing plates just for good measure!

Mounted on a wall, probably not nearly as secure.

I'm trying to figure out how to mount cabinets on the wall in the garage...with no framing behind where the cabinet going to be mounted. Figuring on using butterfly clips to the wall and securely connect the end of the new cabinet to the end of the existing cabinet.
Gads, no framing above the window or door in the garage!!

Pirate
Pirate,

Do you know what a Real European kitchen is?

When the Europeans moved they took their kitchen cabinets with them. The cabinets were hung on rail on the wall, then a mechanical fastener so they don't get dislodged. My son the cabinet, got his sense of humor from me, when he came to install our new kitchen he started laying out an elaborate setof measurements on the wall. My wife asks him what he was doing, "I'm just laying out the hangers for your new European kitchen"

Back to my point, run a rail from one know support to another. Install some J-clips on the cabinet, hang it, drill hole the size of your fastener through cabinetand wall. Take cabinet off wall, drill the pilot hole put to the size of your wall anchor, hang cabinet, tighten fasteners. Get frosted glass, ice cube, your choice of spirits. Pour 2oz of your favorite spirit in glass, apply ice cube to forehead, drink spirits and grin.
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Old 04-13-2016, 03:38 AM   #13
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Jim.

My problem...I have only one known support...the existing cabinet.

On the other end...5 inches away, would be the vertical track for the HappiJack beds. So I don't think I can there.

Yes, that's a thought to mount a rail to the top of the wall and then connect the cabinet to that rail...good idea...but then the new cabinet sticks out 1/2" further that the existing cabinet.

How do I win?

The new cabinets have a 2" x 1/2" rail at the top and bottom of the vertical back of the cabinet. In the center of the back is a glued on piece about 2" x 4"

So I'm thinking 3 bolts across the top and bottom rail and one in the center of the piece in the center.

Process:
Remove the new cabinet doors
So drill the 3/16" bolt holes in the cabinet.
Get the cabinet in position on the wall.
Drill the 3/16" holes in the wall.
Take the cabinet down and drill the holes in the wall big enough to pass the butterfly clips.
Put the bolts through the cabinet, screw the butterfly clips onto the bolts.
Put the cabinet in place on the wall and push the butterfly clips through the wall.
Start tightening the bolts until beginning to get snug.
Use Irwin squeeze clamps to clamp the existing and new cabinets together.
Finish tightening bolts.
Remove Irwin clamps
Put doors back on cabinets
Put hardware on new cabinet doors

Repeat process for second cabinet.

Then get glass, ice cubes, Pendleton Whiskey, Coke, sit in lawn chair and admire my work!

Sound like a plan???

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Old 04-13-2016, 05:33 AM   #14
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Pirate,

Did you say somewhere that you were also going to tie the new cabinet into the existing. That will help, but is that also where your know anchor is.

Your plan will definatley get the cabinets up there, I just think you need to get some kind of support to a structural member on the far end. Could you tie a piece of sheet steal to the top plate, down far enough that you could drill you holes through the three layers.

I'll have to dream on it a bit.
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Old 04-13-2016, 06:15 AM   #15
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Tie Down Thoughts

The term "Tie Down" is kind of misleading. I learned early on that you can't really tie these big quads and side by sides "down". Just like a boat in rough water, you need to tie a "Spring" line. I.e. On my rig, RZR 1000 in a 3905 hauler. I tie the rear axles to the front "D" rings and the front axles to the rear "D" rings. It never moves and the "D" rings show no deformity. The straps do touch the tires sometimes but since there is no "Up"/"Down" movement placed on the straps, there is no friction or chaffing. This will also prevent "bounce" loading of the straps and "D" rings. There is just too much weight to hold down while the trailer is bouncing down the road. Let your toy suspension take the road shock and make your ties/tie downs below the suspension travel on the axles. There is almost no movement up and down at that point!
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Old 04-13-2016, 04:46 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Rob C View Post
The term "Tie Down" is kind of misleading. I learned early on that you can't really tie these big quads and side by sides "down". Just like a boat in rough water, you need to tie a "Spring" line. I.e. On my rig, RZR 1000 in a 3905 hauler. I tie the rear axles to the front "D" rings and the front axles to the rear "D" rings. It never moves and the "D" rings show no deformity. The straps do touch the tires sometimes but since there is no "Up"/"Down" movement placed on the straps, there is no friction or chaffing. This will also prevent "bounce" loading of the straps and "D" rings. There is just too much weight to hold down while the trailer is bouncing down the road. Let your toy suspension take the road shock and make your ties/tie downs below the suspension travel on the axles. There is almost no movement up and down at that point!
Duh. (as he slaps himself on the head.)

Funny when I stop to think about it, that's how I "tie down" the quads on my flat deck. My Harley I colapse the suspension.
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Old 04-14-2016, 03:48 PM   #17
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I am in the process of adding new s also to my 3305. My boys have two Honda dirtbikes and I am looking at a quad. The current location of rings will not work for me as I would like to be able to use one door to get in the garage from the kitchen or living room.
I used to double tow with my last fifthwheel and had a 14" flat deck and added wheel chokes and d rings.
We are going cross country this summer for a 12k trip and on the way east will have a Honda 50 that I want to put along a wall as to cause the least disruption in the garage as this leg of the trip will be 7-10 days.
On return we may have 3 rigs in the garage so I need to add about 3-5 d ring locations.
Bought a 5000 pound rated ring yesterday with backerplate and will try one first.
Thanks for pics and info.
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Old 10-04-2016, 02:55 PM   #18
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re-install belly skin

Great thread Pirate! How did you re-install the belly skin? That's a pretty long cut.

Thanks, Moose
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Old 10-04-2016, 05:07 PM   #19
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Moose,

I made long cuts, but unlike my electric valve installs, I did not cut out "pieces" of the belly skin. Just long cuts.

At Home Depot I can get "white plastic cardboard", which are my words for the black belly skin.

So, I cut a piece 4" wide and as long as the sheet of plastic cardboard, I think the sheets I can just go in and buy are 24" x 36" so I cut a strip 4" x 36".

I use strips of blue masking tape to lay out 2" from each side of the cut. Then I have a location for my strip of plastic cardboard.

I use 1/2" sheet metals screws that have a "washer like" head. So a phillips screw pan head that extends 1/16" out from the pan head, so close to 1/2" in diameter. I can post a pic later on if need be.

Since this is a cut in the belly skin I never plan on opening again, unlike the electric valve locations. I got a small squeeze tube of clear liquid nails at my local Ace Hardware.

I start my cuts in the belly skin at a place where I can use clamps to get it back in place, so at the location of a cross member.

So cut ends clamped back up in place with Irwin squeeze clamps, blue masking tape in place, screws and cordless drill handy, squeeze tube of liquid nails open and ready....I put a nice bead of the liquid nails all the way around the strip about 3/4" in from the edges.

With help from "she who must be obeyed" we put the strip up in place and start putting screws about 1/2" in from the edges of the strip, every two inches.

Since I began using this process for closing up holes or slits I've made in the belly skin...haven't had one come loose yet.

Make sense?

Pirate
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Old 10-04-2016, 06:46 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pirate View Post
Moose,

I made long cuts, but unlike my electric valve installs, I did not cut out "pieces" of the belly skin. Just long cuts.

At Home Depot I can get "white plastic cardboard", which are my words for the black belly skin.

So, I cut a piece 4" wide and as long as the sheet of plastic cardboard, I think the sheets I can just go in and buy are 24" x 36" so I cut a strip 4" x 36".

I use strips of blue masking tape to lay out 2" from each side of the cut. Then I have a location for my strip of plastic cardboard.

I use 1/2" sheet metals screws that have a "washer like" head. So a phillips screw pan head that extends 1/16" out from the pan head, so close to 1/2" in diameter. I can post a pic later on if need be.

Since this is a cut in the belly skin I never plan on opening again, unlike the electric valve locations. I got a small squeeze tube of clear liquid nails at my local Ace Hardware.

I start my cuts in the belly skin at a place where I can use clamps to get it back in place, so at the location of a cross member.

So cut ends clamped back up in place with Irwin squeeze clamps, blue masking tape in place, screws and cordless drill handy, squeeze tube of liquid nails open and ready....I put a nice bead of the liquid nails all the way around the strip about 3/4" in from the edges.

With help from "she who must be obeyed" we put the strip up in place and start putting screws about 1/2" in from the edges of the strip, every two inches.

Since I began using this process for closing up holes or slits I've made in the belly skin...haven't had one come loose yet.

Make sense?

Pirate
Thanks for quick reply! I think I get it. The "cardboard strip" mounts from underside and is screwed "up" to belly? Are the strips of masking tape there as guides?
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