CM16FFBS Mods

[wahoonc]

Originally Posted by kalm_in_NJ

I was wrong on the specs for both types. The lumens are approx 180 versus 350 lumens for the original bulb. But we like them just fine anyway. Looks like if you want 350 lumens you have to buy a 200mA led at a higher price. Ken

Thanks Ken... I knew the lumens were a bit lower, but with the low draw you can always turn on another one!

Aaron

[wahoonc]

Originally Posted by EricNSTL

I saw those too, but after reading the reviews, these can get hot if you have less then 12V and at almost 14V when on shore power. I found these also at amazon for a few more dollars, but has a better voltage range.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A2WYHIKT67HDGV

I found that out "after the fact" I have the 12 volt cheapies, I have ordered the 12-28 volt ones so I can swap them out. I will use the 12 volt ones in the fixtures that don't get left on for very long.

Aaron

[Firemedic1717]

Hey guys. Just to drop another Idea. I retrofitted mine with all LED from M4 products. I'm not dropping a plug for them, just a very satisfied customer. ( i'll add the link at the end) A little more expensive then the ones you find on eBay and Amazon but they are built solid and from what the web site reads, they are designed to dissipate what little heat they produce with increases the life of the bulb. So far so good.

Aaron I love the cut out and the 3 switch addition. How hard was it to tie into the exterior flood light and where did you get the power for the new light and awning light? The end result looks GREAT, just might be above MY skill level to do HAHA. Being a paramedic I'm really good at fixing people, just not so good a custom jobs like that. The thermostat upgrade looks great too. Where did you get it from, eBay has them for about 120 bucks. Was it a plug and play hook up or do you need an engineering degree to figure it out?

Lastly I saw an earlier post about cable outlet. It seem simple enough to drill a hole for the cable jax and run in down the wall and out the bottom. ( I'd really like to avoid drilling into the siding). Is there anything in the way or should the cable just reach the bottom mesh netting that lines the under side of the trailer?

Love the tread so many great ideas!
Cool Bright White Wedge Base LED Retrofit Light

[wahoonc]

Bryan,

Right now nothing is hooked up to the switches.

The thermostat came from Home Depot or Lowe's and was under $30. It is not RV specific. It has a battery in it to keep it powered up. I will see if I can get the model number for you.

Power for the new light was pulled across from the bathroom light fixture.
I plan on powering the LED for the awning from either the gaucho under cabinet light, or when I pull a new feed to the outside light. Just haven't gotten that far along in the process.

As far as the cable is concerned you have a couple of choices, I am going straight down the wall and put an outlet in just above the bumper in the siding. Only problem with going out the bottom is there is a wall plate at the bottom you would have to work around. You might be able to drill a hole in the bottom of that rear cabinet and in the wall, then feed the cable up to the TV/Antenna Connector.

Aaron

[nineoaks]

I am installing 2 stabilizers on the front, bought them at harborfreight for $32.00 each but less 20% coupon for one, they each come with a handle too, whereas camping world does not include a handle.

[nineoaks]

Originally Posted by wahoonc

Just installed a fluorescent light over the sink area to replace the stock camper light. Eventually the rest will get replaced with LED units. I had the fluorescent on hand so that was quick and easy. Got a whole list to work through...

• Bed Lift arms
• Front Stabilizer Jacks
• LED Lights
• Larger LP tank
• Vent Fan for Bath
• Power Jack
• Television Bracket

Pictures eventually if not later.

Aaron

The first thing I did was to replace the front jack with an electric, (harborfreight with 20% off $102.00 I replaced the cheap fuse with a good inline one and put an on /off toggle switch in the battery box.
I have the two front stabilizers to install yet ( also harborfreight)
I also made a rod to hold the bed up,
I installed my clothesline post holders on the rear bumper and checked the drop in posts (home made)
I resealed all the exterior lights so the lens will stay on and for waterproofing.
I replaced the TV antenna head with a JACK head, much better performance.

I have to install an inside to outside jack for the sat.
I have several more mods in mind and I have picked up a couple already from this and Trailer Life forum.

[wahoonc]

Originally Posted by nineoaks

I am installing 2 stabilizers on the front, bought them at harborfreight for $32.00 each but less 20% coupon for one, they each come with a handle too, whereas camping world does not include a handle.

I looked into those and instead went with the old style screw stabilizers. Mine were a gift, but I have seen the set of 4 on sale at CW for $19.95.

Aaron

[nineoaks]

I finished installing the anti sway device today (Harbor Freight $49.00)
Painted the clothes line posts, they will be dry by tomorrow.
I also will be installing the new LED TV tomorrow
I have a lot of mods to do yet, actually they never stop but it keeps me busy

[wahoonc]

Added a Stromberg-Carlson power jack to the front of my Coleman today. No mo cranking to hook up the WDH bars.

Aaron

[MartyG]

Congrats Aaron, you'll love it! We got the same one. When it fails (2X), it's a loose fuse connection in-line. Go there before you dig out the crank!

[wahoonc]

That was listed in a couple of reviews I read. I plan to eventually replace the glass fuse with a better grade of holder that uses the blade style. But it will do for the time being.

Aaron

[hddecker]

Originally Posted by wahoonc

Added a Stromberg-Carlson power jack to the front of my Coleman today. No mo cranking to hook up the WDH bars.

Aaron

I see you cheated. You left the fuse holder out and accessible.

I tried my damnedest to find the fuse holder in the pouring rain, I finally gave up and cranked the jack up by hand. At least the fuse blew on the last day of our trip.

Once we got home and the trailer on the driveway, it only took me about 5 minutes to cut all the cable ties to find the fuse holder. Somebody thought it would be a great idea the bury the fuseholder into the tightest bundle of wires I ever saw on my trailer.

[wahoonc]

Originally Posted by hddecker

I see you cheated. You left the fuse holder out and accessible.

I tried my damnedest to find the fuse holder in the pouring rain, I finally gave up and cranked the jack up by hand. At least the fuse blew on the last day of our trip.

Once we got home and the trailer on the driveway, it only took me about 5 minutes to cut all the cable ties to find the fuse holder. Somebody thought it would be a great idea the bury the fuseholder into the tightest bundle of wires I ever saw on my trailer.

That is difference between someone that assembles them and someone that actually uses them, doing the work.

In reality that is where the fuse was mounted on the jack when I bought it. However had it not been it would have ended up some where close to that location! I plan on swapping it out for an ATC/ATO fuse holder in the future, that way I will have all of the same type of fuses.

Aaron

[hddecker]

Originally Posted by wahoonc

That is difference between someone that assembles them and someone that actually uses them, doing the work.

In reality that is where the fuse was mounted on the jack when I bought it. However had it not been it would have ended up some where close to that location! I plan on swapping it out for an ATC/ATO fuse holder in the future, that way I will have all of the same type of fuses.

Aaron

Yep, common sense does not apply. Of course if the workers did do something that made sense they'd probably get 40 lashes.

The fuse holder on the jack in my old Airstream was in the same place, the jack on this trailer is one of the China specials so I consider myself lucky that it even had a fuse. It sounds like it's about to die everytime I lift the tongue.

I still have the head of the old jack, which is a Barker Engineering jack made in the USA, I just have to get a new shaft and the POC on the camper now is gone.

[nineoaks]

Mine is wired to the TT battery. I drilled a hole in the battery case and installed the new style fuse holder there, (in place of the old screw type holder) easy to reach and easy to find..

[MartyG]

Aaron, I forgot to mention something. A 5-qt Penzoil jug, cut off just above the handle, makes a great rain shroud for that model. A snug fit, I even leave it on while traveling. It looks stupid, but keeps the water out of the motor!

[wahoonc]

Thanks Marty... no Penzoil jugs around here. I hope the Rotella one fits.

Aaron

[nineoaks]

I went to Lowes and purchase 2 1/2 sheets of luan and a couple of sticks of 1/2 white wood, which I ripped in half, I cut the Luan to shelf size and made one shelf in the pantry as we felt the shelves were to high and a lot of wasted space, it started raining so I only had time to do one, 2 more to go. this gives the DW a place for towels etc.
I also purchased 8 of the tap lights for about 1.00 ea. as Wally World to put in the cabinets for lights and installed them with Velcro, these are smaller than the original and are LED and should last for a long time. Looks like we will be rained in for the next few days so and outdoor work will be slow, but at my age everything slows down anyway.

[nctrailboss]

Not sure if it's a mod or not,but I had to hustle down to Lowes for a new LP regulator today.Pulled the trailer out from the shed today for a Christmas beach trip and had no LP flowing.Regulator had taken a crap.So now it has 2 stage gas grill reg, on the front wall.Old one had an oily substance in it.????????

[sundancer 87]

Originally Posted by nctrailboss

Not sure if it's a mod or not,but I had to hustle down to Lowes for a new LP regulator today.Pulled the trailer out from the shed today for a Christmas beach trip and had no LP flowing.Regulator had taken a crap.So now it has 2 stage gas grill reg, on the front wall.Old one had an oily substance in it.????????

LPG is odorless so it has an oil additive in it to give it an odor. It may be oil of Mercaptan or skunk oil. Natural gas has one of these additives also, I just don't remember what odorant goes where.