Bathroom floor vent in 3895 and probably other models - Dutchmen Owners

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Old 11-16-2015, 11:21 PM   #1
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Bathroom floor vent in 3895 and probably other models

Cold weather has rolled back around and with it a problem I tried to solve last year but was advised in a post against my solution.

The floor vent in my bathroom for the propane furnace blows way too strong heating the bathroom up like a sauna. I bought a plastic floor register that will close but was warned against installing as it would melt in the heat.

I've thought about trying to fabricate some type of metal cap for what looks like a 4 inch round metal vent in a recessed box that feeds the 2 inch wide register, but access is limited.

Any suggestions beside slinging a wash rag over the door to hold it open???
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Old 11-16-2015, 11:56 PM   #2
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I have about an inch of metal duct work protruding into the transition. That extra duct work could be fitted with a partial cap to block some of the heated air or a damper could be fashioned to fit inside it or a damper to fit the size of the transition.


A tin bender, sheet metal guy, could cut a sheet metal cap to cover the opening. He could solder or rivet a strap that could bend down over the outside of the duct that could then be screwed to the duct to hold it in place. A smaller cap could be cut to allow some heat to escape instead of closing it off completely.
Another option would be to have a rectangular piece of sheet metal could be cut to fit inside the transition. He could solder an axle down the middle of the long end, just like the old stove dampers were made. You could drill holes in the ends of the transition for the axle to sit. Then a little tang on the damper could be screwed to the transition to hold the damper in place.
All this would be under the register and hidden away.
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Old 11-17-2015, 12:48 AM   #3
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First thing I would do is determine just how hot the air is that comes out of that vent. We use plastic furnace vents at home and I have an over sized gas pack to compensate for the lack of wall and ceiling R-value.

It wouldn't be too hard to fabricate some sort of damper to reduce the air flow to that particular vent. Surprised Dutchmen actually has the vent completely hooked up.

Aaron
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Old 11-17-2015, 01:06 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HornedToad View Post
Cold weather has rolled back around and with it a problem I tried to solve last year but was advised in a post against my solution.

The floor vent in my bathroom for the propane furnace blows way too strong heating the bathroom up like a sauna. I bought a plastic floor register that will close but was warned against installing as it would melt in the heat.

I've thought about trying to fabricate some type of metal cap for what looks like a 4 inch round metal vent in a recessed box that feeds the 2 inch wide register, but access is limited.

Any suggestions beside slinging a wash rag over the door to hold it open???
Could a wooden register work? There are some that are fairly flat so you would have to block some or all of it to control the heat.
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Old 11-17-2015, 05:22 AM   #5
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Mike, I found a metal one at Home Deport, and I close mind all the way, and enough air comes out to heat the bathroom
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Old 11-17-2015, 09:17 AM   #6
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^ Ditto on the metal one at HD...dropper right in, no issue
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Old 11-17-2015, 10:14 AM   #7
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I am unsure of where your vent is located, but I have thought about not only closing that vent, but cutting another vent just inside the bedroom. The small 2 inch line feeding the bedroom is quite anemic.

I also wonder that if you were to completely close that vent, would it cause an over temp within the furnace? There is a Temperature Limiting Switch...the lack of air flow combined with this switch could cause abnormal cyclic operations of the furnace. If I close the vent, I would look for a way to make another opening somewhere.

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Old 11-17-2015, 01:27 PM   #8
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Cale, you are correct about the temperature limit switch, I have a friend that covered the bathroom heat vent and it knocked out that switch. They were on an overnight stay while traveling and had to take it the CW to get it replaced and it cost them a couple extra days on the road.
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Old 11-17-2015, 02:06 PM   #9
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I only recently learned about the Temp Limit Switch when I was troubleshooting my furnace last month. Funny the things you learn about when working on other things.

Cale
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Old 11-17-2015, 04:55 PM   #10
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That bathroom vent issue isn't just limited to your 3895 Mike. My 3605 has the same problem. Dedicated 4' vent going into the bathroom. 2" teed into the bedroom. I wonder what engineer figured that one out.
I'm looking into swapping the hoses around. Only nice thing is you sure don't need much hot water to shower with if the furnace is running.
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Old 11-17-2015, 05:13 PM   #11
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Great feedback...

I looked all over for a metal floor register last year and the plastic one at the RV Supply was all I could find. I guess since most new construction in West Texas is a concrete slab on grade the stores just don't carry floor registers.

Plan A is to use the metal floor register mention above that I did find online at Home Depot. While I was browsing I ran across some HVAC round metal reducers / adapters. I'm going see if I can use these as suggested to swap the large bathroom feed for the smaller bedroom feed and see if that will even out the air flow???

Plan B is to cap the bathroom feed. With this Temp Limit Switch it sounds like if I go to Plan B I'll still need to re direct the air flow.

Thanks all...

I've got to get this fixed if I expect DW to live in the trailer all winter while we wait on our new house to be built.
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Old 11-17-2015, 05:31 PM   #12
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Concerning your Plan A, I wonder how hot that metal floor vent will be? I know the floor is pretty warm, I can only imagine how heat soaked the vent would get while having hot air blow through it. I would be mindful of stepping on it.

Cale
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Old 11-17-2015, 09:42 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by dougs2 View Post
Cale, you are correct about the temperature limit switch, I have a friend that covered the bathroom heat vent and it knocked out that switch. They were on an overnight stay while traveling and had to take it the CW to get it replaced and it cost them a couple extra days on the road.
I guess I've been lucky, our bedroom vent has been closed for ever, we like a very cool bedroom.

The saving grace must be the way the genius engineer or desiger layed out the heat vents, they put one right below the thermostat. Wish I would have thought about it when I had the bellypan down, I would have added another spill air into the belly right below the bedroom vent.
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Old 11-17-2015, 10:21 PM   #14
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I just finished the bathroom mod. I now have hot air blowing the dish towel that hangs on the oven door and the air flow has most definitely increased, even a tad more to the garage. More air flow into the bedroom vent also.


I took a Dinty Moore 20 oz. beef stew can and cut the bottom out of it. The can bottom is almost the same size as the duct coming up to the register.
I cut strips from the can itself and screwed them to the can bottom. Dry fitted the bottom and strips over the duct opening and bent the strips so they would set the bottom slightly above the duct and slightly off center as well.
Bent the strips 90 degrees to the transition so the can bottom was above the opening and drilled holes in the transition. Screwed the strips down and replaced the register.


I can adjust the air flow if necessary but I think I'll leave it as is until it gets really cold.


Photos coming tomorrow. Besides the pix I want to do an air flow test with and without the can bottom in place.
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Old 11-18-2015, 03:26 PM   #15
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Concerning your Plan A, I wonder how hot that metal floor vent will be? I know the floor is pretty warm, I can only imagine how heat soaked the vent would get while having hot air blow through it. I would be mindful of stepping on it.

Cale

Cale, I'm the one that advised against plastic based on personal experience. Melted the crap out of register and deformed the vinyl flooring when I tried it. I was concerned that metal would get hotter and burn s*it up. My plan was to reroute and resize ducting. Good web site that sells all materials.

Mark
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Old 11-18-2015, 04:37 PM   #16
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Think it's best when dealing with bathroom to hot and bedroom to cold to deal with the T connection. Been gone for a month eager when I get home to resolve this. Perhaps as mentioned previously simply change lines around. Bathroom is a lot smaller than bedroom!!
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Old 11-18-2015, 04:52 PM   #17
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Cale, I'm the one that advised against plastic based on personal experience. Melted the crap out of register and deformed the vinyl flooring when I tried it. I was concerned that metal would get hotter and burn s*it up. My plan was to reroute and resize ducting. Good web site that sells all materials.

Mark
I find that the plastic registers get hot enough to make it uncomfortable to step on in bare feet.

Metal can get hot enough to cause blisters, particularly in the little feet that run around in the camper.

The wooden registers get warm, but not blistering hot. But now you have me thinking that I better start checking the temps, I don't need them going up in flames.
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