Voltage Level Up 6 way Level System - Dutchmen Owners

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Old 03-01-2014, 07:52 PM   #1
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Voltage Level Up 6 way Level System

Hi,
I have a 2014 3905 Voltage with the 6 way level systems, According to the directions when you finish camping and are ready to hook back up, you simply press the left and right buttons and the unit will raise up to where it was dropped off,

ok... but what about the other 4 jacks that are still down? I mean if the front starts to rise up wont it put stress on the other 4 jacks that are already down?

Maybe a silly question but I have already had a problem with leveling this coach and the unit slid of the landing blocks and bent one of the front landing gear legs and 2 of the rear jack legs. It is being repaired now. I just keep playing this video over and over again trying to figure out what I did wrong. My dealer said the ground was unstable, but the ground was frozen and I used 10X10 squares 3 inches think to put the landing gear on to prevent it from sinking.

Anyway I'm just a bit gun shy about getting the coach back and trying again to level it or hook back up.

Thanks for any suggestions and or comments.

Mike
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Old 03-01-2014, 08:38 PM   #2
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Before you return to the original drop off position you'll want to retract the rear and middle jacks.

Scroll down until you see 'Retract Rear'. Let them retract and then hit the left and right buttons to bring the front back to the drop off position.

If the ground doesn't look level use chock blocks. Some owners automatically use them whereas I get a feel of the ground. If it looks good I'll release the pin, if not, then I'll chock the wheels on both sides.
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Old 03-01-2014, 10:50 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sundancer 87 View Post
If the ground doesn't look level use chock blocks. Some owners automatically use them whereas I get a feel of the ground. If it looks good I'll release the pin, if not, then I'll chock the wheels on both sides.
Always use wheel chocks. Always! Read this…………..Accident Avoidance

I have felt my trailer move (a small amount) on level ground. Nothing like what happened to VoltageGuy
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Old 03-01-2014, 10:58 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by realniceguy5000 View Post
Hi,I have a 2014 3905 Voltage with the 6 way level systems, According to the directions when you finish camping and are ready to hook back up, you simply press the left and right buttons and the unit will raise up to where it was dropped off
Mike
Yep, that's what I do. I push the right and left together then hook up, scroll to retract rear and if has been good. Wheel chocks come out after everything is finished and go in place before everything else is started. I have always just read and followed the instructions on the sticker below the jacks control. Maybe I am doing it wrong. I'm sure I will get told if I am.
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Old 03-01-2014, 11:04 PM   #5
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I forgot the part about setting the air brakes.......
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Old 03-02-2014, 01:16 AM   #6
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Thanks everyone, Seems to be a couple ways to do it. Sundancer 87 way makes sense to me, however the directions and arlan in Arizona say other wise. But I even remember at the dealer they said the same thing.

Also I noticed when trying to level the coach that one side of the coaches wheels came off the ground, I saw a video on youtube showing leveling the coach and the same thing happened. You guys ever see your wheels come off the ground? I'm thinking maybe this had something to do with my problem. Also it says in the directions about the spot being level, exactly how level should the site be? Most campsites I have been too are not level and I used to have to drive up on those plastic things with my old rig, I thought when looking at this coach that I would not have to do that any longer. Just not sure anymore...

Thanks, Mike
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Old 03-02-2014, 03:26 AM   #7
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I have one wheel off the ground now. It's the last axle on the left side. I've had this happen a few times and never gave it any thought.

Six point leveling to me is just that, I shouldn't have to carry anything more than some blocks to put under the pads. As long as the system is happy with itself and gives me the level signal I forget about it. I will say where I am currently the ground has been frozen, thawed, rained on and frozen again so I go out from time to time and relevel.

You'll get a feel for it with a little more experience and become comfortable with whichever process you use.
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Old 03-02-2014, 12:37 PM   #8
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Sundancer 87,
Im staying in a similar environment. Are you using auto-level to re-level vs manual mode to adjust for settling?
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Old 03-02-2014, 02:47 PM   #9
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Sundancer 87,
Im staying in a similar environment. Are you using auto-level to re-level vs manual mode to adjust for settling?

I do, the adjustment is so small I don't worry about retracting slides.
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Old 03-02-2014, 04:09 PM   #10
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I do, the adjustment is so small I don't worry about retracting slides.
I've not had the nerve to attempt an auto-level since i dont want to retract the slides and am very concerned with how the leveling system will react. According to monitor im currently showing -.01 side to side and -.05 front rear. Not sure how reliable these number are since a manual level validates the -.01 but adjusting front to rear to 0.0 has the nose noticeably down. I've been doing manual adjustments to get green light on controller, but im now getting concerned that im putting the frame in a bind since i dont believe i have the independ control over individuals jacks.

I think the OP makes a valid point regarding the operation of this system. I question how standard the systems are across different models and years. When i hooked up at dealer for the first time he gave me a set of hand written directions for retracting gear and told me to disregard the directions on the sticker located in the basement. Considering we were experiencing one of Denvers worst snow storms, i did not take time to question. IAW their directions when hooking up i first enter manual mode, press the retract switch then press the rear quad switch. Once all four rears are up i shut off retract switch. Now i control nose up and down with the retract and front quad switches while still in the manual mode. Also, it sounds like there may be differences in options available when scrolling thru the controller displays. I see the following when scrolling:

1. Not level jacks: Down
2. Battery 12.8 volts
3. Sise to Side -.01
4. Front to Rear -.05
5. Auto Retract enter to begin
6. Manual Mode Enter to begin

I've also attempted to attach a pic of my controller.

Does anyone with the 6 point Hyd system have anything different? Appreciate all inputs.
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Old 03-02-2014, 04:44 PM   #11
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There is a valid point here. We are discussing six point level systems but we have two different actuators.

I have the electric motor system and you have the hydraulic system. That might be the difference in the overall process of extending and retracting the jacks. Whatever means is used to get level one thing remains constant, level is level.

I stuck some bubble levels inside the compartment just to verify the electronics are correct. Heat and cold has an effect on the stickiness of the levels so I use them for quick reference and depend on the electronics being correct when finished.

Since the level positioners/sensors are installed by someone, there is a possibility they could be off by tenths of degrees. When the electronics says the rig is level, according to the sensors, then that's what I tend to believe. Before electronics we relied upon a person setting a giant bubble level to tell us we were level. Also, we walked the inside of the rig, if we felt we were listing to the side or to the ends we adjusted accordingly.

Regarding your feeling the nose is low, mine looks like that too. I've been told I was nose down a few times. It may be a structural anomaly that makes it look that way. To verify the electronics did their job correctly take a bubble level and check various areas in and around the rig. I think you'll find it's all ok, it just looks nose down.
I have a roll around tool box in the garage where a magnetic level lives and the bubble stays in the middle. I have a Smart Level, it's electronic and it always reads 0.00 when the Lippert system says the rig is level.
Do some spot checks with a good level and see how the comparison readings come out. I think you will find them to be very close to each other.
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Old 03-02-2014, 06:06 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by realniceguy5000 View Post
Hi,
I have a 2014 3905 Voltage with the 6 way level systems, According to the directions when you finish camping and are ready to hook back up, you simply press the left and right buttons and the unit will raise up to where it was dropped off,

ok... but what about the other 4 jacks that are still down? I mean if the front starts to rise up wont it put stress on the other 4 jacks that are already down?

Maybe a silly question but I have already had a problem with leveling this coach and the unit slid of the landing blocks and bent one of the front landing gear legs and 2 of the rear jack legs. It is being repaired now. I just keep playing this video over and over again trying to figure out what I did wrong. My dealer said the ground was unstable, but the ground was frozen and I used 10X10 squares 3 inches think to put the landing gear on to prevent it from sinking.

Anyway I'm just a bit gun shy about getting the coach back and trying again to level it or hook back up.

Thanks for any suggestions and or comments.

Mike
I don't know if you have watched this video or not. Just thought I'd put it out there for you.

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Old 03-03-2014, 02:59 AM   #13
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To the original poster- Did it fall off of the jacks because it rolled back or forward. I am assuming that it did. If that is the case, it had nothing to do with the leveling system, so don't be afraid to use it. Just remember, when you park the unit, and drop the front jacks, chock the wheels and unhook the truck, then hit the leveling button, the system will then adjust the front jacks before it puts down any of the other jacks. After the trailer is close to level, then the system will drop the rear jacks, get it completely level, then drop the stabilizer jacks in the middle.


When you are ready to hook back up, everything must be done in reverse order. That means you have to pull up all the rear jacks before you move the fronts up or down. If you leave the rear jacks down, and the front of the trailer was lowered to get it level, then to get it back up to the height of the truck, it is going to want to raise the front. I think that video is wrong about hooking up the truck. I have had a site that was running downhill away from the truck, and that procedure would have done damage to my trailer. If the rear jacks are down, that is going to put a big bend in your trailer when the back doesn't want to move because you haven't raised the rear jacks. It could even raise the wheels off the ground, and I really don't want to have my 17,000 lb. trailer sitting on 4 jacks that are held on by three 3/8's inch bolts. Too much weight for my taste. And if the site isn't level, and it lifts the wheels off of the chocks, then it is going to want to move downhill, and you will have the same situation that the the OP was telling about, bent jacks.

It doesn't matter if you have hydraulic or electric jacks, the procedure should be the same. The hydraulics will only make it happen quicker, and with more force.
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Old 03-03-2014, 03:10 AM   #14
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Greg,

I'm not disagreeing with you but everything I have seen. Video, the instructions in the storage area by the control and what (I think) I read in the Lippert manual say nothing about raising the middle and rear jack before returning to connect height. When I get back home tomorrow I need to reread the manual. I believe there is also a video provided by Lippert. I just want to do it right so I will investigate. I see no problem with retracting the middle and rear first. I agree, that seems correct. I just don't understand how they say the opposite.

Arlan
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Old 03-03-2014, 12:42 PM   #15
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Im beginning to think this is a limitation imposed by Dutchman. My dealer sells a large number of voltages and claims to have a close relationship with their Engineering group. It was my dealer that provided me with a hand written set of procedures for operating the Leve-up which clearly states to bring up all aft jacks before moving nose up during hook up. Im trying to get clarification from them now.
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Old 03-03-2014, 01:35 PM   #16
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One option I noticed the hydraulic control panel does not have is "Auto Retract Rear". My electric six point has this option which just brings up the mid point jacks and the rear jacks. Once my slides are in, I select this option so I can then raise or lower the front for hook-up to my TV.

I do not get to use the feature that returns the front to the disconnect point due to the process I use. When I arrive to my camp site, I drop the front jacks, chock all four wheels (before disconnecting) and then I raise the front enough to disconnect from my truck. In the past, I would lower my mid and rear jacks to whichever pin hole I felt would be closest to the ground and then hit the auto level button (this method allows for use of the return to disconnect height feature). This created problems on unlevel sites as the front may have to drop significantly and then my rear or mid jacks would run out of stroke.

Now, once the trailer is off my truck, I lower/raise the front of the trailer until I get to a zero reading on the panel. They I place blocks, under my rear and mid jacks so I don't have them potentially extended all the way out which creates too much sway. Then I press the auto level button.

While this process works for me, it renders the return feature useless because the system has lost the point it should return to.

Hydraulic jacks would save me a ton of time since there is no adjustment of the jack legs required.
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Old 03-04-2014, 02:45 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by macman83 View Post
To the original poster- Did it fall off of the jacks because it rolled back or forward. I am assuming that it did. If that is the case, it had nothing to do with the leveling system, so don't be afraid to use it. Just remember, when you park the unit, and drop the front jacks, chock the wheels and unhook the truck, then hit the leveling button, the system will then adjust the front jacks before it puts down any of the other jacks. After the trailer is close to level, then the system will drop the rear jacks, get it completely level, then drop the stabilizer jacks in the middle.


When you are ready to hook back up, everything must be done in reverse order. That means you have to pull up all the rear jacks before you move the fronts up or down. If you leave the rear jacks down, and the front of the trailer was lowered to get it level, then to get it back up to the height of the truck, it is going to want to raise the front. I think that video is wrong about hooking up the truck. I have had a site that was running downhill away from the truck, and that procedure would have done damage to my trailer. If the rear jacks are down, that is going to put a big bend in your trailer when the back doesn't want to move because you haven't raised the rear jacks. It could even raise the wheels off the ground, and I really don't want to have my 17,000 lb. trailer sitting on 4 jacks that are held on by three 3/8's inch bolts. Too much weight for my taste. And if the site isn't level, and it lifts the wheels off of the chocks, then it is going to want to move downhill, and you will have the same situation that the the OP was telling about, bent jacks.

It doesn't matter if you have hydraulic or electric jacks, the procedure should be the same. The hydraulics will only make it happen quicker, and with more force.
Hi, thanks for your reply, Sounds like you were in my driveway when all went wrong, I wish you would have given me a shout

Seriously you are right it does slope down hill some and to the driver side a bit, making the driver side leg the lowest point, with that said I still didn't feel it was unreasonably area to get level.

The passenger side wheel was chocked, however once it started it was too late for the passenger side front leg and drivers side rear and whichever other rear leg was bent, I'm not sure but the dealer said one other rear jack was bent.

Here are a couple pics of the damage, I cant wait to get this back and start all over again.

@ arlan yes I saw that video and others , I watched it about 100 times in fact any video from anywhere I could get a good look at what was going on. that is why I was confused, I did what the video said. or so I thought.

Thanks Everyone, Mike
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Old 03-04-2014, 03:00 AM   #18
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Well, you say your driveway slopes down hill and to the driver side. What am I looking at here. Frozen ground and snow or ice. I live in Arizona but used to live in snow country. I found everything that was not fastened down had a tendency to slide on a sloped surface.

I hate snow and ice.
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Old 03-23-2014, 02:54 AM   #19
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Macman83 is exactly right in his instructions. At first I couldn't figure out wether to chock or not either. In fact I twisted the crap out of a set of xchocks with this trailer(don't use xchocks btw). The Lippert instructions left out two very important points. First is to chock the wheels before unhooking, and second you have have to manually raise the rear jacks (hydraulics dont have an auto retract rear setting) before pressing the left and right buttons to have it get back to hook up height.
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Old 03-23-2014, 03:01 AM   #20
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Other thing is don't be afraid to use auto level. I dry camp all the time on VERY uneven ground and it works great. At first I tried to put blocks under the jacks if the ground was low. Regretted it almost every time. The jacks don't need it, there's plenty of travel there. Just hit the button and watch the magic.
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