Voltage holding tank valves.

[larrypride]

My 2018 Voltage 2951 has 3 holding tanks. After our last outing 2 of the 3 valves are stuck. One stuck open the other stuck closed. Darn, I hate dropping the pan underneath looking for the valves. Would be nice if I had an idea what to open to locate valve. Anybody else had this problem? I did notice that the handles have been getting harder to push and pull over time. I have broken off 2 of the plastic handles tryin to open and close valve. Bummer. Thanks for any help.

[ATCguy]

Unfortunately this is a common issue. If you do a search, you'll find numerous posts on the subject.

You can try squirting some motorcycle cable lube down the shaft, but it's pretty ineffective.

Many of us have had to replace them... and since we've had to be in there anyway, have replaced them with electric valves. Some have done the work themselves, while a few like me have had them professionally installed.

[joebedford]

Donzinger gave me these measurements for his 3950. Yours is probably similar.

"Both are 88" as measured from the front edge of the basment/generator compartment.

One is 36" from the right outer edge of the camper and the other is 66" from the right outer edge of the camper."

[larrypride]

Originally Posted by ATCguy

Unfortunately this is a common issue. If you do a search, you'll find numerous posts on the subject.

You can try squirting some motorcycle cable lube down the shaft, but it's pretty ineffective.

Many of us have had to replace them... and since we've had to be in there anyway, have replaced them with electric valves. Some have done the work themselves, while a few like me have had them professionally installed.

Thanks . I guess I need to open the belly.

[larrypride]

I located the valves. The black water valve is beside the step on right side, easy to get to. I’m changing 3” valve to electric. The gray tank I think I’m just going to replace cable and correct the way cable is routed. The cable goes around in a tight circle. I haven’t found the other gray tank yet it still works ok. I can’t attach pictures.

[ATCguy]

Originally Posted by larrypride

...I can’t attach pictures.

I just created the post at this link. Maybe it will help:

http://www.dutchmenowners.org/forums...html#post72265

[VCToyhauler]

Originally Posted by larrypride

I located the valves. The black water valve is beside the step on right side, easy to get to. I’m changing 3” valve to electric. The gray tank I think I’m just going to replace cable and correct the way cable is routed. The cable goes around in a tight circle. I haven’t found the other gray tank yet it still works ok. I can’t attach pictures.

That’s exactly the problem. I had it too. They just coil the excess cable, when they install it at the factory, rather than trim it. Mine would not push shut after about the first 6 months. I had them rerouted and they have been fine ever since. The electric valves were way too expensive and error-prone I felt.

[larrypride]

Originally Posted by VCToyhauler

That’s exactly the problem. I had it too. They just coil the excess cable, when they install it at the factory, rather than trim it. Mine would not push shut after about the first 6 months. I had them rerouted and they have been fine ever since. The electric valves were way too expensive and error-prone I felt.

Error prone? I have already installed a shutoff ahead of the connection point because I didn’t like it when I would remove the cap and would always make a mess. So if either of the front tanks black and gray leak I will still catch it before the cap. I Like the way the electtric valve looks. I will post how it works after I get it installed.

[cdesero]

I installed two electric valves on my Voltage 3200 last summer one of the best things I have done to the camper. Going to do the second grey tack this year when I drop the bottom on the rear of the trailer to reinforce the fresh water tank supports.

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Sewer/Valterra/E1003VP.html

They are great no more stuck open or closed valves with junk cables.

[larrypride]

I gave up. I couldn't remove old 3” black water valve, it was to tight. I was concerned that if it was that tight I would never get it back together with out hurting the seal. I will be installing a new cable instead. The tank connects directly to the valve with a 90 on valve and the 90 is butted up tight to frame, no room to move valve.

[ATCguy]

Originally Posted by larrypride

I gave up. I couldn't remove old 3” black water valve, it was to tight. I was concerned that if it was that tight I would never get it back together with out hurting the seal. I will be installing a new cable instead. The tank connects directly to the valve with a 90 on valve and the 90 is butted up tight to frame, no room to move valve.

I can't advise you, as I didn't do the work on mine. But, that said, I believe they simply cut my old manual cable valves off, and used a double-joint to install the new electric valves.

[ArmyVeteran]

One size fits all was the idea at Dutchman.
One of my cables actually did a 180 degree bend. Of course it stopped working after one year

The other one did a 90.

I rerouted them both while I was under there.

Works like a charm.

Good luck.

[larrypride]

Darn, I screwed up the seal trying to remove 3” black water valve. Now it leaks and it’s going to be a bitch to fix it. There isn’t any room to remove valve. It’s so tight I take the bolts out but the abs connected to it won’t open enough to remove valve and check seal. I don’t want to remove pan but I might have to so I can loosen tank? Big bummer.

[Chapmon]

I have had 2 of my 3 replaced while still under warranty. One of them only made it through a couple trips. My 2015 had the cable style. Both were replaced with the solid steel type. These are much better and I have not had any problems with them. I would have replaced with the electric if I had done the work myself.
On my 2015 3970 the black and the bathroom grey tank valves are at the front of the trailer. You can unbolt the angle iron support at the very front of the underbelly and access the valves without having to remove the underbelly.

[larrypride]

Thanks for the info. I will see if I can unbolt tank, I don’t see how I can, with out dropping pan.

[Chapmon]

On my Voltage, you don't have to unbolt the tank. You take 5 or 6 bolts out of a piece of angle iron that runs perpendicular to the trailer just aft of the generator compartment. When you drop that piece of angle iron, which only holds up the underbelly, you can see the valves on the ends of the black water and grey water tanks.

[franktafl]

mine got stuck and I had them replaced with electrics.... best thing!

[larrypride]

I've located the valves. My problem is there is no room to remove valve. I can't get the old valve out and I think I've damaged the seal on the valve trying to get it out, so now I'm up a creek with a leak I didn't have before.

[franktafl]

Aren't they the type of valve that is held in with four bolts between the two pipes?

Can you get a picture?

[larrypride]

Yes, but there is no room to remove valve. The valve seats between the frame and the tank on the 3" or black water tank. I tried to remove valve to put electric valves in and screwed up the seals. Now I have to find a way to remove valves and replace or repair seals. All because my cable froze up. There is a hose clamp on the side of the valve that's by the tank. I'm hoping that if I loosen clamp it will give me more play?