Voltage 3950 Rear View Camera, AC unit, and other problems - Dutchmen Owners

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Old 08-26-2012, 07:18 PM   #1
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Voltage 3950 Rear View Camera, AC unit, and other problems

I have a 2012 3950 since late December with a rear view camera that has had the antenna extension option installed and it still only works about half the time (or less) Is anyone else having rear view camera issues?

Also, I just went to the storage location and the air conditioner is throwing an E7 code and won't come on with the generator. I just picked this up from the dealership where it was there for the camera and other tweaking that was required and took it back to storage (didn't run anything, just dropped it off). I know they were checking the very quick battery drain on the system (even with the batteries switched off, they are dead in a week) so i don't know if they disconnected anything or not.

So far, this RV has been at the dealership longer than it's been in storage!

I've only had the opportunity to say in it less than a week, total!
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Old 10-26-2012, 03:41 PM   #2
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I have the Voyager model rear camera.. worked fine until the antenna fell off. Voyager will not replace it under warranty. I am having to go thru the dealer under their warranty. I can't speak highly of Voyager (asaelectronics) for their customer service over a couple dollar antenna. In reference to the battery, i must keep the 5er plugged in or my battery is also dead in a couple weeks. I am told its the detectors like the carbon monoxide etc that have a slight but significant drain on the battery. If I dont plug it in I turn off the battery switch to preserve the battery
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Old 10-27-2012, 12:17 PM   #3
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Also, I just went to the storage location and the air conditioner is throwing an E7 code and won't come on with the generator.
RDF,
Check the A/C (HVAC) breaker at the Breaker Panel(power distribution panel). It may be tripped for some reason.

Error Code:

E1 Loss of communication between the CCC 2 thermostat and all system power module boards. System will shut down.
E1 Loss of communication between the CCC 2 thermostat and an individual system power module board. The LED will display error code EI and the zone number that lost communication. Any additional zones that loose communication will blink in addition to the current zone.
E2 Open circuit or out-of-range indoor temperature sensor. All heat , cool, and dehumidify operations will be locked out. Manual fan operation will continue.
E3 Shorted Indoor Temperature Sensor. All heat, cool, and dehumidify operation will be locked out. Manual fan operation will continue.
E4 Open circuit or out of range Outdoor Temperature Sensor (select models). Heat pump and dehumidification operation will be locked out. Air conditioner, furnace, heat strip and fan operation can continue to operate.
E5 Open circuit or out of range Freeze Sensor. Air conditioner and dehumidification operation will be locked out. Heat pump, furnace, heat strip and fan operation can continue to operate but displays the last temperature set-point.
E6 Open circuit Humidity Sensor (Select Models). Air conditioner and dehumidification will be locked out. Heat pump, furnace heat strip and fan can continue to operate.
E7 Loss of 120 VAC power to all power module boards on the system. The system will shut down.
E8 Invalid zone configuration. The heat pump and heat strip DIP switches are both set to the ON position in one zone. Heat pump, heat strip, air conditioner, and dehumidify operation will be locked out in the affected zone.
E9 Invalid zone configuration. The dehumidifier DIP switch and either the heat pump or heat strip DIP switches are set to the ON position in one zone. Heat pump, heat strip, air conditioner, and dehumidify operation will be locked out in the affected zone.
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:28 PM   #4
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camra

I have a 3600 epic rv teck fond all power conections on the back of the braker pannel were loose and causing, all typs of problems. Im looking for other owners of 2012 3600 epic, in hope of sharring problem isues thanks ?
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Old 11-06-2012, 12:35 AM   #5
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Mine works fine so far...
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Old 11-15-2012, 04:11 PM   #6
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I had the same AC problem with the same error code in my 2012 Voltage 3200. The dealer found a loose wire nut where the wiring from the AC unit was connected to the trailer wiring in the ceiling. Raises quality control issues for me.
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Old 11-17-2012, 03:13 AM   #7
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My 2012 voltage 3950 has no air in garage. The units on top are running,but no air coming from ceiling. Does anyone else have that problem?
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Old 11-17-2012, 03:17 AM   #8
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no mine blows well enough.. ours is a 2013 3200 voltage. The front is like a wind tunnel. the rear not hard but you can feel it well.
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Old 01-03-2013, 06:20 PM   #9
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One thing I found on the main ac, is that it sends air through the cutout in the roof. You need to pull the cover and the metal shield, get a roll of metal tape, ($5.00) and seal up the cracks. Then when you reinstall the metal seal around it too. It increased my air flow from 647cfm to 1050 cfm. That is a huge difference in a Rv..
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Old 01-04-2013, 01:48 AM   #10
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One thing I found on the main ac, is that it sends air through the cutout in the roof. You need to pull the cover and the metal shield, get a roll of metal tape, ($5.00) and seal up the cracks. Then when you reinstall the metal seal around it too. It increased my air flow from 647cfm to 1050 cfm. That is a huge difference in a Rv..
How did you measure that air in cfm the AC put out??? just curious
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:57 AM   #11
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I went to a ac supply store and bought a cheep wind meter, and help it up to the vents. It's the same tool a HVAC person should balance the vent in a house with. The I made a map of the vent locations and wrote down the readings.
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:38 PM   #12
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One thing I found on the main ac, is that it sends air through the cutout in the roof. You need to pull the cover and the metal shield, get a roll of metal tape, ($5.00) and seal up the cracks. Then when you reinstall the metal seal around it too. It increased my air flow from 647cfm to 1050 cfm. That is a huge difference in a Rv..
You say your 'air flow', which is measured as f/m or feet per minute increased to 1050 cfm, which is cubic feet per minute.

In order to reach a cfm reading your f/m is multiplied by a given area. That area being the volume of an opening. In this case what opening area did you use as a multiplier to come up with your 1050 cfm?

There is a difference in f/m and cfm. One being simple air flow and the other the volumetric flow of air.

I'm guessing your latest readings are f/m and there was an increase in air flow after the tape job.
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:31 AM   #13
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I used the test equipment that I bought. And it was set on cfm. The way I look at it is if the reading goes up, that means more flow, if the number goes down, it means less flow..

I try to keep things simple.
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Old 01-05-2013, 03:43 PM   #14
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I used the test equipment that I bought. And it was set on cfm. The way I look at it is if the reading goes up, that means more flow, if the number goes down, it means less flow..

I try to keep things simple.
Yep, no doubt you improved the performance of the AC by patching the leaks.

I would like to do some testing on my two ACs in the 3800 so would it be possible for you to provide the brand and model number of the instrument you used? Probably other members would be interested in obtaining one also.
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Old 01-05-2013, 06:53 PM   #15
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Yep, no doubt you improved the performance of the AC by patching the leaks.

I would like to do some testing on my two ACs in the 3800 so would it be possible for you to provide the brand and model number of the instrument you used? Probably other members would be interested in obtaining one also.
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Old 09-23-2013, 10:33 PM   #16
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I would bet something like LCD Digital Handheld Wind Speed Gauge Meter Measurement Anemometer Thermometer | eBay would more than enough for a/c troubleshooting a rv system.
There is another type that is a little more bullet proof but not near as fancy
Dwyer Instruments Wind Meter MPH Meter Wind | eBay
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Old 10-10-2013, 03:23 AM   #17
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Do you have 3 zone A/C if so will not operate on 5.5kw genset, have to be plugged in to shorepower, where I am showing close to 12,000 watts from the shore power from home, same fluke meter showing 5100 watts from genset, could only read what the electrician showed me, anyone understand this?
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Old 10-12-2013, 01:30 AM   #18
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From this common service we can draw 120 or 240 volts. Each leg is 50 amps @ 120 volts. 50-amp X 120-volt = 6000 watts. But since there are 2 HOT 120-volt legs at 6000 + 6000 = 12,000 watts to use in the RV. Just found this http://www.myrv.us/electric/Pg/50amp_Service.htm
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