Voltage 3950 Rear View Camera, AC unit, and other problems - Page 2 - Dutchmen Owners

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Old 01-04-2013, 03:57 AM   #11
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I went to a ac supply store and bought a cheep wind meter, and help it up to the vents. It's the same tool a HVAC person should balance the vent in a house with. The I made a map of the vent locations and wrote down the readings.
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:38 PM   #12
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One thing I found on the main ac, is that it sends air through the cutout in the roof. You need to pull the cover and the metal shield, get a roll of metal tape, ($5.00) and seal up the cracks. Then when you reinstall the metal seal around it too. It increased my air flow from 647cfm to 1050 cfm. That is a huge difference in a Rv..
You say your 'air flow', which is measured as f/m or feet per minute increased to 1050 cfm, which is cubic feet per minute.

In order to reach a cfm reading your f/m is multiplied by a given area. That area being the volume of an opening. In this case what opening area did you use as a multiplier to come up with your 1050 cfm?

There is a difference in f/m and cfm. One being simple air flow and the other the volumetric flow of air.

I'm guessing your latest readings are f/m and there was an increase in air flow after the tape job.
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Old 01-05-2013, 01:31 AM   #13
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I used the test equipment that I bought. And it was set on cfm. The way I look at it is if the reading goes up, that means more flow, if the number goes down, it means less flow..

I try to keep things simple.
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Old 01-05-2013, 04:43 PM   #14
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I used the test equipment that I bought. And it was set on cfm. The way I look at it is if the reading goes up, that means more flow, if the number goes down, it means less flow..

I try to keep things simple.
Yep, no doubt you improved the performance of the AC by patching the leaks.

I would like to do some testing on my two ACs in the 3800 so would it be possible for you to provide the brand and model number of the instrument you used? Probably other members would be interested in obtaining one also.
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:53 PM   #15
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Yep, no doubt you improved the performance of the AC by patching the leaks.

I would like to do some testing on my two ACs in the 3800 so would it be possible for you to provide the brand and model number of the instrument you used? Probably other members would be interested in obtaining one also.
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:33 PM   #16
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I would bet something like LCD Digital Handheld Wind Speed Gauge Meter Measurement Anemometer Thermometer | eBay would more than enough for a/c troubleshooting a rv system.
There is another type that is a little more bullet proof but not near as fancy
Dwyer Instruments Wind Meter MPH Meter Wind | eBay
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Old 10-10-2013, 04:23 AM   #17
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Do you have 3 zone A/C if so will not operate on 5.5kw genset, have to be plugged in to shorepower, where I am showing close to 12,000 watts from the shore power from home, same fluke meter showing 5100 watts from genset, could only read what the electrician showed me, anyone understand this?
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Old 10-12-2013, 02:30 AM   #18
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From this common service we can draw 120 or 240 volts. Each leg is 50 amps @ 120 volts. 50-amp X 120-volt = 6000 watts. But since there are 2 HOT 120-volt legs at 6000 + 6000 = 12,000 watts to use in the RV. Just found this http://www.myrv.us/electric/Pg/50amp_Service.htm
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