Voltage 3905 TV amplifier - Dutchmen Owners

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Old 03-04-2016, 06:04 PM   #1
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Voltage 3905 TV amplifier

We have a Voltage 3905 with the 4 factory installed TV sets: main set in Living room, one in BR, one in garage, and the 4th outside. Husband ordered a new Channel Master 4 port HDTV signal Amplifier, but the cables located under the main electrical box area, don't seem to match up as expected. If anyone can provide some great step by step instructions for us so we can have improved TV antenna reception, it would be much appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 03-04-2016, 09:15 PM   #2
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My 2013 3905 has an integrated antanna booster built into the back of the cabinet just below the DVD player in the living room FYI. It's just a small black button hard to see but found it accidentally and it comes in handy sometimes.
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Old 03-04-2016, 11:33 PM   #3
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Thanks, Burl. But we upgraded to a better booster, and need to figure out how to hook it up. Husband had found the hardware in behind. I sure wish Dutchman provided better instructions.
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Old 03-05-2016, 04:33 AM   #4
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Hi, my brother-in-law has a 2012 3905 and I have a 2013 3905. We have had them side by side and tried to figure out any rhyme or reason to the wiring, plumbing, HVAC systems etc…
There is none!
Relative to the TV signal amplifier! This one was all over the place between our two rigs. Both of our stock amplifiers are located in the cabinet below the DVR and Sound System. In the 12-volt plug face-plate. There are two amplified output connections behind the plate and one incoming from the roof antenna. There is also one amplified output on the outside of the face plate that you can see from the open compartment. Additionally, you will have a none amplified coaxial connection either on the same plate or adjacent to that plate on yet another face-plate. This connection runs from your plumbing compartment and is for connecting temporary cable or whatever you want to connect to the corresponding connection in the plumbing compartment. The destination of any or all of these coax connections is anyone’s guess since none of them are labeled and trust me, they do not have a standard!
The quickest resolve to this and future visits to this area is to either purchase a tone tool form Home Depot, Lowes etc. or just use a 9-volt battery, two test leads with small alligator clamps and a volt meter. Disconnect all the leads and test them out to locate the destination of each. I.E. connect the test leads to each pole of the battery and one test lead wire to the outside ring of the coax connection with the other wire connected to the center wire of the coax connection. Use your volt meter to locate which TV location gets the 9 volts. Mark both ends with tape or a label making device indicating where the opposite ends goes so you can find them in the future for maintenance and/or changing devices.
Additionally, you will find one or more TV signal splitters either behind the surround sound speaker on the side of the cabinet near the bathroom door and/or behind the main TV. Depending on your needs, you may or may not want to change some of these connections to fit your needs. You may also want to locate your multiple signal amplifier to take the place of one or more of these passive devices.
Of course there are many ways you can route the signals depending on how you want to view your TV’s and how many tuners you have available.
I am using a diplexer to pick up both the over air signal and the direct TV signal and then splitting them to the TV sets so I can pick up either antenna TV or satellite TV by just changing the TV back and forth from antenna to cable signal. The rub with this is I do have to change the channels form the living room area where my direct TV receiver is located. I am working on the use of a mirror to bounce the IR signal from the bedroom to the living room Direct TV receiver but I have not nailed that down just yet.
FYI, pull the Plexiglas material out of the equipment door and replace it with a dark synthetic screen material (Home Depot). This will help air flow over your amplifier and receiver equipment and allow your remote signal to pass through so you don’t have to leave the cabinet door open to channel surf.
Hope this helps!! Good luck
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Old 03-05-2016, 04:44 AM   #5
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One more thought! This applied to both of our 3905s. The wireless rearview camera was wired directly to the battery! No circuit breaker of fuse that we could locate. This caused very premature camera death on both of our rigs. It’s an easy fix. Drop the rear most interior light above the garage bunk. Cut the hole large enough to access the wad of wires hidden behind the light. Using your volt meter, confirm that the camera is direct wired (Hot all the time). Disconnect and cap these wires. Locate the running light wires running across the back edge and either open a tap or create a new one to the camera leads.
Now your rear view camera will come on when you are connected to the tow vehicle and your running/headlights are on.
If you can pick up your remote wireless camera when your tow vehicle is not connected, you will be buying a new camera very soon! They should last the life of your vehicle!!
Once again,
Good Luck!!
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Old 03-05-2016, 08:44 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Rob C View Post
One more thought! This applied to both of our 3905s. The wireless rearview camera was wired directly to the battery! No circuit breaker of fuse that we could locate. This caused very premature camera death on both of our rigs. Itís an easy fix. Drop the rear most interior light above the garage bunk. Cut the hole large enough to access the wad of wires hidden behind the light. Using your volt meter, confirm that the camera is direct wired (Hot all the time). Disconnect and cap these wires. Locate the running light wires running across the back edge and either open a tap or create a new one to the camera leads.
Now your rear view camera will come on when you are connected to the tow vehicle and your running/headlights are on.
If you can pick up your remote wireless camera when your tow vehicle is not connected, you will be buying a new camera very soon! They should last the life of your vehicle!!
Once again,
Good Luck!!
I may have to try this one. Is it the ASA camera you have? I have gone thru two already and the third one is frozen with a picture of a camping trip from over a year ago. I have a 3950 - imagine it's close to the same wiring.
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Old 03-05-2016, 01:40 PM   #7
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I may have to try this one. Is it the ASA camera you have? I have gone thru two already and the third one is frozen with a picture of a camping trip from over a year ago. I have a 3950 - imagine it's close to the same wiring.
You should be able to save a step and just go to the camera. My camera was inop for the first few months, I removed it and found that the wires were never hooked up...knowing what I know now, I could have/should have tapped into the running lights when I had the camera off to wire it.

What I may do now, as I do not want to pull the stuff off the roof again, pull the light as suggested and wire to the light itself. Then when needed, I can just use the interior light to turn the camera on/off...we don't use those lights much, as I installed LED lights under the bunk.

Cale
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Old 03-05-2016, 03:27 PM   #8
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ASA Rear View Camera

Yes, it is the ASA camera and it is easy to connect to the running light circuit (as it should be) through the ceiling panel with the rear most garage ceiling light removed. The camera circuit should not be hot all the time and I would not hook it to the garage light either. That could make it pretty difficult to turn on and off when your loaded up. The running light circuit is easier and it's in the same hole. The only modification you may need to do is widen the hole a little so you can get your hand inside. The light will still cover it up when yo are all done.
Thanks
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Old 03-05-2016, 11:17 PM   #9
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Rob, Thank you so much. Husband will tackle the "wires" in the future.
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Old 03-07-2016, 03:27 PM   #10
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I'll have to check onto this. Unfortunately, I'm still stuck with having to buy another setup just try it. Third time gone bad for me now. But, I guess that's expected when they use a Jensen product...
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Old 03-09-2016, 02:58 AM   #11
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So I have the backup camera on my 2014 Voltage Epic 3800. Re-aimed it a couple of weeks ago to make it more useful.

It does have LED lighting around the lens...but I don't have a clue how they work. Booklet says they should come on with the running lights...nope. So perhaps they come on if I turn on the lights inside the garage...nope. Perhaps with the backup lights on the truck...nope.

Anyone have camera lights that work? And what turns them on?

Thanks,

Pirate
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Old 03-09-2016, 03:09 AM   #12
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My understanding is that the led's project light seen by the camera, but not necessarily by you. I have never seen the led's "light up" but the camera does work in low light conditions.
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Old 03-09-2016, 03:57 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Pirate View Post
So I have the backup camera on my 2014 Voltage Epic 3800. Re-aimed it a couple of weeks ago to make it more useful.

It does have LED lighting around the lens...but I don't have a clue how they work. Booklet says they should come on with the running lights...nope. So perhaps they come on if I turn on the lights inside the garage...nope. Perhaps with the backup lights on the truck...nope.

Anyone have camera lights that work? And what turns them on?

Thanks,

Pirate
The LED lights on the camera are "passive" I.e. just enough light for the camera to see at night. If you are seeing objects in your camera at night, they are working! I need to turn down the brightness control on my display at night to keep it from blinding me. Let me know if you need anything else
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Old 03-09-2016, 04:30 AM   #14
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How about they are infrared and the naked eye can't see it. Least wise thats what the instruction book that can with my camera said.
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Old 03-09-2016, 09:23 AM   #15
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I believe they are infrared, I have a bunch of game cameras and they work on the same principle.

Aaron
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Old 03-09-2016, 02:10 PM   #16
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How about they are infrared and the naked eye can't see it. Least wise thats what the instruction book that can with my camera said.
That's what I was thinking but had a mental block.
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Old 03-09-2016, 02:59 PM   #17
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A little trick we use to check the IR lights on aircraft to see if they are working is to use your cell phone camera, they show up real nice for some reason on cell phones.
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