Trailer Brakes

[Randot]

When I first had my braking problems on our Voltage, lack of decent braking, I was getting intermittent brake fault warnings on my brake controller. Turns out along with three bad seals out of four coating the brakes shoes with grease, two of the brake magnet wires had breaks in the insulation where they attached to the brake control arm. Fixed one and still had the issue on the next trip. Removed the drums for a third time checking each wire and found one spot where the small wire had been chaffed enough to allow contact with the control arm. All brake wires were improperly routed during manufacture and the wheels seals were low quality allowing large amounts of grease to coat the brakes, it's all good now, had a panic stop last time out and truck and trailer stopped just fine.

[clint343]

My truck does most of the breaking and the truck is a 2015 F350 and the trailer is a 2015 3818 with three axles. I took it to the dealer and they said only one axle was breaking so they were correcting it. I'll repost once I know what was done.

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[hddecker]

Originally Posted by clint343

My truck does most of the breaking and the truck is a 2015 F350 and the trailer is a 2015 3818 with three axles. I took it to the dealer and they said only one axle was breaking so they were correcting it. I'll repost once I know what was done.

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Probably another case of a failed crimp connector. It's scarey how often that happens.

[Randot]

Just did my annual bearing packing and brake adjust and I found another brake magnet that had lost its' retaining clip. I adjusted the brakes after re-assembling everything and on our trip I noticed the trailer pulling to the right every time I applied the brakes. I checked them again before the trip home and maybe made a quarter turn on the brake adjusters on the two left wheels and problem solved. It's amazing how little it takes for the brakes to come out of adjustment. A friend with a 3 axle voltage had the same problem with only one axle doing the stopping. He didn't notice it and ended up flat spotting his tires. He replaced the tires, properly adjusted the brakes and no more problems. Both of us had brake problems with new trailers right off the lot, it would be better if there were more quality control from the factory and dealer.

[hddecker]

Originally Posted by Randot

it would be better if there were more quality control from the factory and dealer.

It would be better if them electric drum brakes went the way of the dinosaurs.

[clint343]

So got the RV back and no improvement. They changed the crimp connectors only without testing afterwards. Gotta love the technical expertise of RV dealers. Warranty ended two weeks ago, guess it's time to get the hands dirty.

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[Rob C]

Yes! I did a electric/hydraulic disc brake conversion on my 3905. Best money I've ever spent! I got my hard parts through boattrailerparts.com 100861 Kodiak Slip On Stainless/Dac Disc Brake Kit 8 Lug 7k Axles w/ Hubs
Add Ons: (10) Stainless Steel 3/8 in x 1 1/4 in Flange Mounting Bolt $17.50 $692.34 x 3 $2,077.02
Plus about $200.00 in fittings and brake lines. Plus about$600.00 on and electric/hydraulic Hydra-star actuator HBA16 from Etrailer.com. Plus a new Prodigy 3 controller @ about $125.00 almost anywhere.
Very VERY happy with the overall project. Towing with a 1 ton Dodge dually with Jacobs brake.
The original brakes needed frequent adjustments, The wiring was prone to breaking and disconnecting near the crimp connections and the braking power of the drums never seemed adequate for an emergency stop. While I was at it, I changed all the spring bushings from what was left of the Chinese plastic bushings to bronze and all of the dry shackle bolts to wet bolts. My rig roles down the road as quiet as a mouse. It will stop on a dime and give some change. Again, best money I've ever spent!

[gord]

I have a 2013 v3200 voltage 36 ft 5th wheel and have tried setting brakes, cleaning shoes and drums right up and have so little braking power set on a gain of 10 that the brakes alone would not stop the rig on a slight decline. I have even pulled the emergency stop activator on the trailer which should eliminate the truck all together and put full 12 volts from the trailer batteries to the wheels and it still works crappy. not sure where to go next. I also found all the seals on the axles were dinted and allowed grease to creep through to the brakes.

[Rob C]

Originally Posted by gord

I have a 2013 v3200 voltage 36 ft 5th wheel and have tried setting brakes, cleaning shoes and drums right up and have so little braking power set on a gain of 10 that the brakes alone would not stop the rig on a slight decline. I have even pulled the emergency stop activator on the trailer which should eliminate the truck all together and put full 12 volts from the trailer batteries to the wheels and it still works crappy. not sure where to go next. I also found all the seals on the axles were dinted and allowed grease to creep through to the brakes.

Hi Gord, I'm almost one year into my electric over hydraulic disc brake setup and I don't have any regrets. The drum electric brakes on these heavier rigs are just not adequate and require way to much maintenance to keep them functioning. Just my two cents!

[gord]

hi Rob, I have looked into your conversion and will likely do the same thing to my rig. I pull with a 2015 gm dually with the factory brake controller and wonder if I will need the adapter they talk about. Looks like a great system!