Tips on Installing a Winch in the Garage

[ATCguy]

One of my next projects will be to install a winch in my garage to assist with loading my Goldwing. So far, I've always rode my Wing up the ramp & into the garage... but there have been some days that I almost didn't make it successfully. Trying to ride that 1000 lb. beast up the ramp when the tires are wet from the rain-soaked grass of the day before... well, let's just say it must have been the shot of adrenaline through my veins that allowed me to get it back upright after the rear wheel spun sideways from under the bike.

There were a few more similar, if not as bad, episodes... but I won't bore you with them.

Anyway, as I travel solo (so no one always available to help), and I'm not getting any younger... I think installing a winch to assist me is the best thing to do.

I've got an old WARN 3700 utility winch that would be ideal for the job (3,700 lb. capacity)... but am wondering how I should wire it up? Being more mechanically inclined than electrical, I have no idea where I should attempt to tie in to the rig's DC system... or if I should. I've got a feeling that I should be tying into the truck's circuit.

Of course, another option is to go buy a new winch that runs on AC power, that I could simply plug into an outlet int he garage. I just wonder if the rig's wired for that much amp draw, or if I'll end up blowing the circuits?

If I did that, I'm looking at a WARN 15000AC unit that the specs say has a 9.1 amp draw at max load (1,500 lbs). That seems to be ok, provided I have nothing else pulling power on the garage circuit when I use the winch... but again, I'm kinda dumb about things like that.

Any opinions from the group?

[wahoonc]

The draw of the AC winch is less than a what your toaster pulls, so I wouldn't be too worried about overloading any circuits. Downside you have to be plugged in or have the generator running.

Not familiar enough with your unit to know where to tap in for 12 volt winch operation. Any idea on what the 12v winch amperage rating is?

Aaron

[ATCguy]

Originally Posted by wahoonc

Not familiar enough with your unit to know where to tap in for 12 volt winch operation. Any idea on what the 12v winch amperage rating is?

Aaron

WARN 3700 Utility Winch:
12V DC PERFORMANCE SPECS (first layer of drum)

Line Pull Lbs.(Kgs.).........Motor Current

0 (0)...............................30 Amps
500 (226.8)....................76 Amps
1000 (453.6)..................111 Amps
2000 (907.2)..................180 Amps
3000 (1360.8)................249 Amps
3700 (1680)...................297 Amps

[wahoonc]

Holy Crap Marie!

I seriously doubt the DC system on the Voltage (name notwithstanding) could handle that. For the easy way out, spend money and get the AC winch.

FWIW the only vehicle I have ever had with a winch on it was my 1964 Series IIA Land Rover. It was power take off driven from the transfer case, none of that fancy pants electric stuff. But then again it had Lucas electrics...

Aaron

[ATCguy]

I hear ya.. That's why I was thinking if I stick with DC power, it ought to be wired off of my F-450. It's got dual 12v batteries and dual alternators. Don't think I'd run out of power drawing off the truck.. but it means running over 55-ft of wire to the winch (20-ft long truck & at least 30-ft under the RV to the winch location in the garage).

[sundancer 87]

A few thoughts of using a winch to ponder. You have your hands full already with the scooter so you'll need some way to control the bike and the winch switch, possibly a third hand.

The winch will have to be mounted off the floor, preferably at the same height where you'll make the attachment to the bike. If on the floor the cable will have a tendency to pull down on the front of the bike.

Then there's the problem of trying not to run over the control cable.

Wiring it from the truck is nothing more than heavy wire, no biggie if size the wire correctly.

Warn makes a motorcycle winch, lighter than the 3700 and has a less current draw.

I get the same pucker factor with my Raider and have been contemplating a less slick way to run up the ramp. Maybe some high dollar paint like used on decks of sail boats. I ruled out the stick on grap strip because I figure the rear tire would peel them off.

I have considered a way to set the bike on its side stand and elevate the ramp to a level position for a simple ride up the beaver tail.

The winch idea would work if one had a solid mounting place and/or a third person for the control aspect.

The amperages listed, I suspect, are for dead drags as opposed to rolling stock so you could go smaller if necessary.

[ATCguy]

Originally Posted by sundancer 87

...I have considered a way to set the bike on its side stand and elevate the ramp to a level position for a simple ride up the beaver tail.

Yeah, same here... something like that would be AWESOME!! But I don't see any way of lifting the ramp + a 950 lb bike to a horizontal position w/o the use of either hydraulics... or a winch bolted to the roof structure, but then that raises other problems about load bearing capacities of the roof framing.

[sundancer 87]

Originally Posted by ATCguy

Yeah, same here... something like that would be AWESOME!! But I don't see any way of lifting the ramp + a 950 lb bike to a horizontal position w/o the use of either hydraulics... or a winch bolted to the roof structure, but then that raises other problems about load bearing capacities of the roof framing.

I agree, not enough beef in any part of the rig without plating and gussets and all that. Then the added weight of cables, hydraulics and winches.

So this afternoon I researched these guys Interstate Grating: Safety Grating

Sufficient width for the tires, adequate length to cover the ramp and can be easily stored. They can be made to be quickly removed when the ramp wants to become the patio again.

The price of 300 bucks or so is a lot cheaper than a broken bone or a damaged scooter in the event of a loading failure.

Lighter and safer in the long run. They are 1 1/2" off the ground which leads to the question of sagging in the middle from the weight of the bike but a 2x4 on its face, placed beneath the grating will prevent any sagging.

Give this a look and see what you think. I bet used stuff can be found, maybe from an old catwalk or some other application.

[wahoonc]

Originally Posted by sundancer 87

I agree, not enough beef in any part of the rig without plating and gussets and all that. Then the added weight of cables, hydraulics and winches.

So this afternoon I researched these guys Interstate Grating: Safety Grating

Sufficient width for the tires, adequate length to cover the ramp and can be easily stored. They can be made to be quickly removed when the ramp wants to become the patio again.

The price of 300 bucks or so is a lot cheaper than a broken bone or a damaged scooter in the event of a loading failure.

Lighter and safer in the long run. They are 1 1/2" off the ground which leads to the question of sagging in the middle from the weight of the bike but a 2x4 on its face, placed beneath the grating will prevent any sagging.

Give this a look and see what you think. I bet used stuff can be found, maybe from an old catwalk or some other application.

Doubt they well sag much, if at all. They also make that product in flat sheet. But a sheet and cut strips out of it and put directly on the ramp. If you use the ramp as a patio you could throw a piece of carpet over the strips.

Aaron

[ATCguy]

Yeah, I'm not crazy about a raised grating... but that stuff on the bottom of the page, the Tread Grip Flooring looks like a possibility... although I wish they made the Deck Span 'diamond tread' in a sheet too. The raised buttons on the Tread Grip sheet don't look to be all that substantial.

Coming back to the other idea of raising the ramp horizontal... I got to thinking more about it while laying in bed last night, and came up with this idea: I wonder how a pair of these... one on each side of the ramp-door... would work?




Just plain ole farm jacks. I actually think that could work, although I think I'd want to install some type of cleat on the outside of the ramp-door for the jacks to hold on to. Having one slip out would be a disaster.

Might have to think a bit more on that...

[wahoonc]

The sheet grating works pretty good, we use it in industrial settings on floors when we need extra grip in a wet/slick area.

I would call the company and ask for a sample. I think you will be impressed with the amount of grip surface it really has.

Biggest problem with the jacks is running two of them at once. I have several of those that do duty down on the farm.

Aaron

[ATCguy]

Originally Posted by wahoonc

Biggest problem with the jacks is running two of them at once. I have several of those that do duty down on the farm.

No... the biggest trouble I see so far (which I really didn't think about before) is pushing the Goldwing up the ramp, and getting it to sit there.

Since the warm front blew in earlier today ahead of the rain... I decided to see if this was going to be an option. I dropped the ramp, and began pushing the Wing up on it. Keep in mind, this is a 950 lb bike being pushing up a 30-degree ramp. That was a job & a half... and that was with dry conditions. So not so sure how it would work under wet conditions (wet tires and/or wet ramp)

Probably an option for a smaller bike... but not for the Wing. So that's out.

I did price a sheet of that Tread Grip online. It ain't cheap.

It's sold in 3' x 10' sheets... and a single sheet is in the $300 range before shipping. And that won't be cheap, as it weighs a little over 100 pounds... which means it also wouldn't be portable.

So I think I'm back at the winch option.

[wahoonc]

Don't need the whole sheet, just strips off of it.

Aaron

[ATCguy]

Originally Posted by wahoonc

Don't need the whole sheet, just strips off of it.

I hear ya... an 18" wide run of about 8' is all that's needed (say 40 lbs?), but you gotta buy the whole sheet.

[sundancer 87]

Originally Posted by ATCguy

I hear ya... an 18" wide run of about 8' is all that's needed (say 40 lbs?), but you gotta buy the whole sheet.

Let's see, if we could find three more hauler owners that ride real scooters maybe we all could go together and share the cost of one sheet.

[wahoonc]

Might be able to find it by the square foot at an industrial supply house or shop that specializes in industrial work. I have bought short sections of schedule 80 pipe and 18" I-beams that way before.

Aaron

[fuzzy1]

I installed a winch in the floor

[orangecrush]

My suggestion would be to look at a smaller winch while your at it. 15000 is ENTIRELY too much. Unless you plan on dragging an F 350 inside your garage, it's overkill.

My other suggestion is to possibly mount the winch up on some sort of stand. I say that because depending on the angle of your ramp, you may find that the cable drawn directly from the winch to the bike may or may not clear the angle of the rear door where it meets the trailer.

Mark

[ATCguy]

Slight typo there... one too many zeros. The a/c winch is only a 1,500 lb. unit (Warn 1500AC).

[fuzzy1]

I use the winch to pull a trailer with 2 atv on it up in to the garage the winch work great