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Old 01-05-2015, 07:13 PM   #1
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The Belly

I have a phantom water leak...there is no indication of a leak inside or outside the trailer while in use. We used the water pump extensively while on vacation because of freezing temps (the pump never randomly ran). We had a lot of rain in one place, but we never moved, so unsure how it got into the belly. Once I drop the nose of the trailer to hook up to the truck, water comes out near the front, at the end of the black underbelly. I can pull it down and a lot of water will come out....fast forward, I dropped the front, because I thought the black tank flush fittings were loose, I found that on the rear flush. When we dropped the barrier, we found the water was between the black underbelly and the silver that seals the frame shut...on top of the silver barrier, it was dry..very frustrating at best, so not sure if I have a leak or not....

Now, I know it is winter and there has been some discussion about the tank heating pads...I took some pics for everyone. Mine are not on the tank anymore...meaning, they have fallen off (may not have been installed properly in the first place). I wanted to label the switches by turning on and shooting with an IR gun or feel them, that won't work, they are thermostatically controlled, so, if it is warm out, they will not turn on. They are mounted at the waste gate, so they will keep that from freezing, not the whole tank. They are made by WFCO, I am going to call and inquire about how to remount them...

Enjoy,
Cale

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Old 01-05-2015, 10:00 PM   #2
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I see the sticker says the pad is thermostaically controlled so I wonder this. Does the thermostat shut the pad down when it gets too hot (as on an empty tank), or does it, as you mentioned, not come on when it's not cold enough.

Logic has it that if there are three tanks with heaters and three switches all in a row the first switch from the left, because we read that way, would be for the front tank, middle tank for the middle tank and so forth. If I were to set this scheme up I'd wire it in a logical manner. However, the blind installers employed by Dutchman use very little logic or common sense.

So then, another question. Providing the heaters are located at the drain points does this mean the tank proper can freeze but the drain valve won't? Seems kind of stupid to try and drain a frozen tank full water of varying flavors.
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Old 01-07-2015, 11:55 PM   #3
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Condensation? Colder temps on warmer components? Could explain why its only between the underbelly and "vapor barrier/insulation foil"... Was there a significant amount of water draining?
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Old 01-11-2015, 07:38 AM   #4
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I hate looking under the panels etc. on my voltage and the raptor I had. There is no logic to the lay out of wiring, plumbing and just plain out poor craftsmanship. Worked on my buddies Tiffan Bus and much neater construction of course I could buy 5-6 voltages for that price, but still quality control is non-existent.
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Old 01-25-2015, 09:43 PM   #5
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I ran into the same issues when I dropped the under belly last summer, one of my heating pad was in the same condition - half off. I did a little better routing of wires/duciting and installed insulation to help the thin layer of foil they installed. I will have to drop it again this coming summer, I need to insulate my water line going to my kitchen, that is my only worry this winter - why I did not think of that when it was off - old age maybe. My tanks have good insulation around/under them now. I notice my living room floor gets cold - thinking of installing cut out foam to the underfloor this summer. I figure it would keep the floors a little warming vice trying to run the furnace to heat the belly.
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Old 01-25-2015, 11:27 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ldo2104 View Post
I ran into the same issues when I dropped the under belly last summer, one of my heating pad was in the same condition - half off. I did a little better routing of wires/duciting and installed insulation to help the thin layer of foil they installed. I will have to drop it again this coming summer, I need to insulate my water line going to my kitchen, that is my only worry this winter - why I did not think of that when it was off - old age maybe. My tanks have good insulation around/under them now. I notice my living room floor gets cold - thinking of installing cut out foam to the underfloor this summer. I figure it would keep the floors a little warming vice trying to run the furnace to heat the belly.
I want to do the same, but I want to be sure I find any leaks prior to doing that. I have done some more digging, I am thinking my water leak may be from the fresh tank. We had it about half full and have used it quite a bit due to the current park having water problems. Now that I am near empty, I don't see any water. I need to drop the belly near the tank to check the fittings.

I am also trying to figure out how to insulate the floors around the fuel tanks under the garage. We use it as living space, with thin carpet down, it still feels cold.

Cale
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Old 01-26-2015, 07:30 PM   #7
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As far as insulating the floor in the garage, if you don't need to get access the flooring for any reason, I wound suggest spay foam. It has a much higher r value per inch thick than any panel, foam glass or fiberglass on the market, my inlaws did that on their Nash tt and the floor stayed amazingly warm. kinda costly, but worth every penny, water proof, fire retardant, rodent proof, etc... Best part is, it sprays on, so you might not have to drop the fuel tanks. I want to do that to my 3605 this summer
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