Schwintek motor removal - no notch - Dutchmen Owners
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Old 01-08-2017, 05:44 PM   #1
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Schwintek motor removal - no notch

Hi All,
I just got back from a trip and once done cleaning the toyhauler (2012 Voltage V3950) the galley slide would not slide in nearest the main door. I did all the troubleshooting and determined the motor is bad (open circuit). All the videos I looked up show the motor is accessible from the inside via a notch in the slide frame assembly. This unit unfortunately has no notch.

My only thought is the slide frame has to come out to be able to lift the motor from the top of the frame. Does that sound right? Any tips moving forward as I'm a bit nervous pulling the frame out.

So far I have the screws on the outside trim off about 2/3 of the way.

Pics attached

Thank you all for any help!
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Old 01-08-2017, 07:09 PM   #2
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Did you remove the motor retention screw? Unless you remove it you won't be able to get the motor out regardless of the notch. In the second picture where you are pulling the seal back, if you look directly above your fingers there is a groove the seal snaps into. Get a small screwdriver behind it and pry it out and pull it down a few inches. There you will see the retention screw. Remove it then go inside and pop the motor up. Maybe you can fish the motor out, somehow then.
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Old 01-08-2017, 11:15 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by dougs2 View Post
Did you remove the motor retention screw? Unless you remove it you won't be able to get the motor out regardless of the notch. In the second picture where you are pulling the seal back, if you look directly above your fingers there is a groove the seal snaps into. Get a small screwdriver behind it and pry it out and pull it down a few inches. There you will see the retention screw. Remove it then go inside and pop the motor up. Maybe you can fish the motor out, somehow then.
Yea I was already past the retention screw portion. It was stuck fully open originally. I removed the screw, lifted the motor, and pushed the slide in by hand. I had somebody on the switch while the controller was in override mode so I could push in the slide at the same rate as motor in an effort to look for the notch.
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Old 01-08-2017, 11:54 PM   #4
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Ok, I guess I'd be tempted to cut my own notch rather than take the frame column apart but just my opinion.
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Old 01-09-2017, 02:01 AM   #5
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Ok, I guess I'd be tempted to cut my own notch rather than take the frame column apart but just my opinion.
That's the route I'm leaning towards right now.
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Old 01-09-2017, 10:42 AM   #6
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I believe the inside notch is a change from previous versions...to allow access/removal from the inside.

Cale
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Old 01-10-2017, 08:24 PM   #7
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TRX, if you have removed the screw, and if you have the slide in enough to get your hands in there, you may have to use a screwdriver to push up on the motor, once it's out, you will have enough room to remove it....sometimes the S... wiring is just loose and you can push it back into the motor and it will start working again.....If you do change motors, there are a couple types, make sure you get the right one, If you decide to change to a more powerful one, do the same on the other side, if it is the less power one...
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Old 01-14-2017, 02:37 PM   #8
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On my 2013 3950 the structure is too close to the motor to lift all the way out. Cutting might compromise the framing.
I had to take the entire vertical track off from the outside to get the motor out
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Old 01-14-2017, 09:40 PM   #9
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I ordered the replacement motor. I kicked myself after ordering. I should've just ordered both of the 500:1 motors (high torque) vs the 300:1. Oh well. If it happens again I'll do that and save the good motor for the bedroom slide just in case.

Definitely no way the motor is coming out unless I move the frame outwards or notch.

I reached out for help from a friends friend. Apparently he's worked on the Voltage line since it came out and knows them intimately. Eventually I'll be able to do a little more by myself, but for now I'd like to know I'm doing it right.
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Old 02-19-2017, 05:08 AM   #10
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So I got the first motor replaced and couldn't be there to help/watch/learn.

Not even 2 trips later the other motor for the kitchen slide took a dump. Bought 2 - 500:1 motors and had somebody replace them since we were on a time crunch. I now have a very good idea on how it's done since I was there watching and helping (pushing the button in/out).
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Old 06-06-2017, 03:26 PM   #11
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I managed to cut a slot in my frame in place (bedroom slide). It was extremely difficult to access. I contemplated removing bedroom cabinetry but got it done without doing that. Ugly ugly job.

It was a broken wire on the motor - now I have a spare.
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Old 06-07-2017, 04:16 AM   #12
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Joe, sorry you had to all that, I advised above to check the wiring or plug at the motor, I have seen a couple now that...the wire broken or it just unpluged
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Old 06-07-2017, 12:50 PM   #13
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Joe, sorry you had to all that, I advised above to check the wiring or plug at the motor, I have seen a couple now that...the wire broken or it just unpluged
Yeah, I saw that. But I haven't been here for a while and my work was already done before this thread started.

Even so, the wires broke right at the solder joint on the PCB on the top of the motor under the black cap. There's no way I could have repaired that in situ.
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Old 06-07-2017, 02:50 PM   #14
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Yeah, I saw that. But I haven't been here for a while and my work was already done before this thread started.

Even so, the wires broke right at the solder joint on the PCB on the top of the motor under the black cap. There's no way I could have repaired that in situ.
I also had the same thing happen, after I replaced that motor with a new one I resoldered the broken wire back on and also carry it as a spare. The new 500:1 motor had a much improved wire configuration where it enters the motor. I'm considering just ordering another new motor for a spare because if I'm going to all the work to replace one, I want the latest and best one I can get.
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Old 06-07-2017, 05:31 PM   #15
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I agree. If one of the motors fails on the big living room slide, I'll replace them both with 500:1. Of course that means cutting slots - like the bedroom slide I did, one side is accessible and the other is not so much.
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