Rubicon Rear Ramp Convert to Patio - Dutchmen Owners

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Old 06-13-2016, 11:19 AM   #1
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Rubicon Rear Ramp Convert to Patio

Has anyone converted their rear ramp into a patio where it wasn't manufactured to be used as a patio? The reason I ask is I've seen threads on other forums where people state the rear ramps are manufactured different if going to be used as patios.

All of the patio set ups I've looked at look to be the same as my Rubicon 2800. Some look like they're not as supported as my Rubicon. Any suggestions, examples, and input would be appreciated. Sorry if there's already a post on this, but I couldn't find it.
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Old 06-13-2016, 11:36 AM   #2
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i am interested as well, i have heard of people putting jack stands under the rubber stoppers and such. i have the screen door on my 2600, wonder about where to get the railing, i bet it is not cheap
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Old 06-14-2016, 02:52 AM   #3
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i did do this mod to a Heartland road warrior 305, 36' 5er. (2012 model ). i would not do it again. 1. the metal is SO soft, when i started to drill a pilot hole, the bit walked so much it was very hard to get the holes to match. 2. there is some channeling and ya just don't know where it is until you start drilling. 3. there should be a sleeve on the inside the door, and if not, the door WILL crush and dimple when you bolt it up OR when you walk on it latter as a patio.
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Old 06-14-2016, 10:45 AM   #4
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Thanks for the insight, looks like I'll put this idea in the trash......
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Old 06-14-2016, 10:45 AM   #5
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For anyone interested, I have brand new railing and stairs that I am looking to sell. Never used and just taking up space in my garage. Located in So Cal.
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Old 06-14-2016, 05:02 PM   #6
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i would consider drilling the "door" , just not the aluminum channeling on the side... if i where to do it again, i would drill the wood part of the door, and use a steel sleeve . or find some way to use legs to support the door.
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Old 06-14-2016, 05:08 PM   #7
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that is what i was thinking, 2 jack stands under the rubber bumpers, is the same place that contacts when i load my atvs and harley, so should be ok i think, the railing and the stairs is what i would need
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Old 06-14-2016, 05:20 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rolopayne View Post
that is what i was thinking, 2 jack stands under the rubber bumpers, is the same place that contacts when i load my atvs and harley, so should be ok i think, the railing and the stairs is what i would need

saw eBay had a screened room, came with some legs that had wing nuts that clapped to the door. ..maybe northern tool or tractor sup would had some trailer tongue jacks that you could fabricate a bracket for
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Old 06-14-2016, 11:48 PM   #9
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I have the railing and stairs. Just let me know if you are interested.
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Old 06-15-2016, 11:22 AM   #10
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i think the shipping from CA to LA would be a little to steep, but thanks brother
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Old 06-23-2016, 05:44 PM   #11
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I have not completed making my own railings as of yet. However, we use jack stands on the bumpers. It is just my wife and I and we only have a little table and a couple chairs on it to enjoy our morning coffee. We don't have a lot of activity on it. so it is used light duty, if you will. Haven't noticed any issues.
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Old 06-23-2016, 06:59 PM   #12
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Patio Kit

I bought the cables and bracket kit for my Triton. I figure if the ramp is heavy enough to support my 1,700 lb RZR as I pull it in, it will hold a couple of people on it. Granted, the aluminum railing did dimple a little when I tightened down the bolts, but look inside where the hinges are mounted, there are no sleeves in there either. Either way, it is good for 500-600 lbs on it. Just dont let everyone try to sit in the exact same spot in the middle. BTW, the only reason I bought the cables through the dealer was so that I did not have to deal with frayed cables or cable clamps, as I am sure my 2 year old would find some way of stabbing herself with them!
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Old 06-23-2016, 10:51 PM   #13
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Could you please add some pictures I'm curious to see how you did this.
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Old 07-06-2016, 02:38 AM   #14
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Didnt Forget About You

Here is one shot of it, will post some close ups
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Old 07-06-2016, 02:41 AM   #15
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Close Up

A close up of top hook, just a link from the hardware store.
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Old 07-06-2016, 02:55 AM   #16
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Door Bracket

Here is a close up of the door brackets. The clip pins are also from the hardware store. The cables and brackets are factory Lippert components. The cables are vinyl coated and pre-terminated. You just hook the cables in the upper corner gussets, level your trailer and then your ramp, and mark where brackets need to be on the door. There is not any stretch in the cables, so you dont have to compensate for that. I did not worry about sleeves in the aluminum frame, if you look how hinges are bolted on, there are no sleeves there either. Mine is solid as a rock, and works great for a little extra space to hang out. Also keeps my two year old from skidding down the ramp on her knees when she trips! Let me know if you have any other questions.
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Old 07-06-2016, 10:15 AM   #17
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Thanks for the pictures, I've been contemplating this more and more, have looked at multiple threads on different sites, and it seems to be the same. If the door can handle the weight of an ATV, side by side, etc on an angle it should be able to hold my stealthy body of 230 pounds.... Now I just need to order the parts.
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Old 07-06-2016, 01:30 PM   #18
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I will see if I can find the receipt on my cables and brackets and get you the numbers. There is not much to them. The other hardware you can pick up at a local hardware store. Don't be tempted to just measure the location of the brackets on one at the dealer, I about did that, and they were several inches off where I ended up needing them.
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Old 07-06-2016, 10:49 PM   #19
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I placed the order for the brackets, my next question is based on your last comment, how did you determine how far out to place the brackets if you say to stay away from measuring ones at a dealer?
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Old 07-07-2016, 03:32 AM   #20
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I had trailer sitting level, then used some boards and a floor jack to hold door out level. I attached cables to the top corner brackets, then held them out along door frame with brackets pinned to them. I marked one of the holes and drilled it. Once I had one hole, was able to use it and the bracket for reference for second hole and then measured and duplicated for other side. Let me know if this helps you out any.
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