2013 Voltage 3895 toyhauler
The factory installed rear camera just stopped working. It seems as if it is not getting any power..
Has anyone traced out how in the world they wired up the rear camera? Every fuse I can find in the unit tests good, so there is a loose connection, fuse I have not found, or the camera is completely dead.
I would rather check the basics first before removing cameras, etc..
I did check the monitor. it gives a lovely "No Signal" display even when I take it to within 1- ft of the camera.
The IR LEDs usually glow a bit at night, they are dark now. So I am guessing power first, before I start thinking the camera took a hike.
No easy way to test the power on the exposed bit I can get to, so if someone knows where/what it is tied into I can test it there just to isolate it a bit more.
That's going to be tough to find I think. The monitor has the wireless receiver in it so if the receiver wasn't working the wireless signal wouldn't be processed.
I never noticed a glow on any IR LEDs so maybe that's a problem. The IR frequency range is beyond what the human eye can detect so I don't know about the glow.
My guess the wiring probably runs in the ceiling and in most cases unreachable except maybe in the cavity below the A/C in the main room.
Where it originates is beyond me but the camera has to get voltage from somewhere.
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2013 Voltage 3800, 2012 Chevy 3500 HD
2010 Yamaha V Star 950
2009 Yamaha Raider
Volunteering with Habitat for Humanity Caravanners
Is the setup wireless, or wired to the monitor in the truck? I installed a wired system and the power connector is in the truck. If it's wireless, your transmitter may have quit working, or the 12V wire may have worked its way loose from where they installed it. Of course, they wouldn't have soldered it. That would have taken more time at the factory and TIME IS MONEY!!!
My camera transmitter went out after snagging a branch and breaking off the antenna. I replaced the antenna but that didn't fix the problem. I ended up replacing the camera, re-pairing with the monitor, and now everything works again. Here are some things I learned along the way that may help you.
- On my unit the camera had constant power. I pulled every 12v fuse on the breaker panel and it still had power. I never did figure where it is connected.
- My old camera got really hot to the touch. I thought it may have shorted something out when it snagged a branch, but the new one gets just as hot.
- If you remove the Dicor sealant from around where the camera power wire goes into the roof, you'll find a metal plate with 4 screws. Remove those screws and the plate comes off, revealing the camera power wire and a connector. This may be the place to start since yours is not getting power. With the connector unplugged you can check with a volt meter to see if you're getting power to that point. If so, then it sounds like you'll be needing a new camera.
Not sure if it applies to the camera you have, but mine only worked one time at the dealer lot. I called the camera maker and was told that if you remove the cap that covers the sync button and crane your neck just right you should see a small red LED lit in there to indicate power to the unit - he said you won't see it under bright conditions. I have not finished all the troubleshooting on mine as I have audio but no video whioch tells me I have power to the camera. Just a thought and the gentlemen I spoke to was very helpful and explained the system.
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2019 Ram 3500 Limited w/ Max Tow pkg
2005 Cardinal 33LX
2014-3950, Full Paint, 17.5" tires, 370W solar, 3100W Magnum inverter w/ AGS, 7500w diesel generator, Micro-Air Easy Start 364 (x3) SOLD!