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Old 08-14-2016, 04:47 AM   #1
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No 12v Power to Anything?

Ok, this is not on a Voltage but since most of these things are very similar your expertise might help. My daughter's 2008 Four Winds Class C is getting no 12v power to anything without shore power or generator. With generator or plugged in everything works great. Batteries check out fine (13v+). Breakers & fuses are all good. There is a big fused link at the battery & it's good. Entire fuse box has no power coming into it except when plugged in or on generator then it is all fine. Someone mentioned a battery cutoff solenoid??
Any ideas??
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Old 08-14-2016, 05:06 AM   #2
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All sounds good except the TT battery is not connected to the 12V system. Things to look for: Battery disconnect switch off (if there is one, it's probably located on/near tongue between battery and where wire enters TT). Check battery ground connection. Check battery wire for voltage coming into converter. As always, check all fuses and polarity.
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Old 08-14-2016, 11:52 AM   #3
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That is unusual...
First thought would be to check the battery disconnect switch is on. It may be the two battery polarity fuses on the converter. That would be my first guess. Because to have power from the converter but not the battery.

I will have to see if my moho does that or not.

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Old 08-14-2016, 03:39 PM   #4
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I did forget to say it does have a battery disconnect switch but it is on.
Battery polarity fuses? This has one of those all in one 12v fuses, 110v breakers & converter in the same case. Are those fuses in the regular 12v fuse area?
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Old 08-14-2016, 04:16 PM   #5
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Maybe the battery disconnect switch is on, but did you check to see if you have 12 volts through the switch? Could be possible the switch is defective.
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Old 08-14-2016, 06:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcpaul View Post
I did forget to say it does have a battery disconnect switch but it is on.
Battery polarity fuses? This has one of those all in one 12v fuses, 110v breakers & converter in the same case. Are those fuses in the regular 12v fuse area?
The fuses that Aaron is talking about are on the distribution panel, if you have a look there should be two fuses the are above or below the line 12V fuses that control the individual circuits. As an example, if you have a 30A panel, they will be two 30A fuses. These are only protecting the converter. When it comes to fuses, I have made it a practice to check them for continuity. I have come across a few fuses that looked good, but were burnt out or broken conductor.

The fusible link is something I have never encountered on a coach battery, they are usually just on the starting battery.

If you don't have the manual for the converter, check the manufacturers web site, they should have one you can down load.
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Old 08-14-2016, 06:46 PM   #7
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This is what I called a fused link that I checked at the batteries. There are two stand alone fuses above the other fuses in the distribution box that I checked. They are ok also. The thing is that there is no power at all entering the distribution box.
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Old 08-14-2016, 07:27 PM   #8
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Attachment 3550
This is what I called a fused link that I checked at the batteries. There are two stand alone fuses above the other fuses in the distribution box that I checked. They are ok also. The thing is that there is no power at all entering the distribution box.
Wow, that puppy looks pretty substantial.

When I get to the point that you are at, I don't even try to find the problem using the scatter gun approach. I break out my multi meter and test light to trace the positive, from the battery all the way to the panel. Then test the negative for continuity, from the battery to the panel.

Learned that lesson the hard way, spent a weekend trying to find why I lost power on the bike. Had I used what is now my SOP, I would have found the broken ground strap from the frame to the engine in half a hour, fixed it and been out riding.

Just another one of those head smackers that keep you on your toes.
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Old 08-14-2016, 09:58 PM   #9
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On my 3950, power goes from the battery to a cutoff switch then to this breaker distribution compartment right above the batteries. Power comes in on the bottom black wire, through a breaker then over to the converter.



My converter is behind the wall in the basement.

I suppose the connection from the converter to the inside distro panel could have come loose and that would account for no 12V power at all.

On edit: I reread your post - you get power on shore or generator power. In that case, the wire from the battery to the converter could have come loose.
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Old 08-14-2016, 10:13 PM   #10
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Really big for a fuse, I'm wondering if it isn't some sort of blocking diode.
Has voltage been checked on both sides of whatever it is? Perhaps remove it and connect battery cables directly to the battery.

Perhaps component numbers could be gleaned off them for research purposes.
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Old 08-14-2016, 10:45 PM   #11
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You might have a 12 v circuit breaker in the mix somewhere, that is what is on my Coachmen Concord MoHo.

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Old 08-15-2016, 05:41 PM   #12
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I would check to see if you have 12V at your convertor. Also check the ground.
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Old 08-16-2016, 01:28 AM   #13
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House batteries = ? Volts
Chassis batteries = ? Volts
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Old 08-17-2016, 02:29 AM   #14
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This just happened to my friends 5er, and also my work truck... Look for a very small push button reset usually on an electrical box/ panel located near battery... Similar to GFI in our houses, these flip and disconnect all 12 v connection. Button size of lady bug kills entire trailer...
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Old 08-17-2016, 03:36 AM   #15
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This just happened to my friends 5er, and also my work truck... Look for a very small push button reset usually on an electrical box/ panel located near battery... Similar to GFI in our houses, these flip and disconnect all 12 v connection. Button size of lady bug kills entire trailer...
That would be where taking a systematic approach to testing or each side of the 12V system would have the trouble ID and rectified in short order. Given that the OP is referring to a Class C and not a 5R. There are just too many different wiring components in play and too many possible combinations, to take a scatter gun approach. Sometimes things have to be disassembled to find that crappy wire nut or the coroded crimp connector, that's hidden behind a panel, wall or in the underbelly.
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Old 08-17-2016, 04:30 AM   #16
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Ok, Thanks for all your help! I found it & it indeed was a small (very small) reset button on a 12v "breaker" about 1" x 1/2". It was located behind the converter/fuse box hidden under a thousand wires. I guess we continue to learn stuff every day! Thanks again for your help!
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