My Triton 2951 Thread

[Wild Card]

Originally Posted by Chipworkz

No it does bounce a little. It is like it is a little too tight of a fit as you have to fold both sides down together to kind of push it outward. If you fold one side down first, the other side won't fold down. I figure it may be adjustable but I haven't got around to looking at it yet.

I would look really closely at the jack knife couch to make sure it is mounted ok. My one leg had about a 1/2 inch gap to the floor and didn't make contact until you sat down. This caused additional stress on the already unsupported wall mount. I am still really happy with the trailer and don't regret my purchase, it is just like most trailers and the factor workers don't always do the best job.

Thanks for the insight.

[otr_pwc]

Originally Posted by Wild Card

Doing my PDI tommorow. I took my wife last night to see it as she won't be available when I pick it up, so she got to inspect the interior.

Does your bottom sofa in the happi jack bounce a little when it comes down by itself? Or is it smooth?

Wildcard, ditto on what Chipworkz's said earlier.

The only thing I would add, in order to rule out any possible mechanical issues with the HappyJac mechanism itself, I'd suggest folding up both the couch backs just enough so they're not touching and raise and lower the HappyJac mechanism a few feet. It should operate perfectly smooth at that point. If not, you may want to have your dealer take a closer look.

Hope your PDI goes well! Enjoy!

[Pinshootr]

ours bounces some also not a big deal helps to put something with a bit of weight on it and it stops the bounce, like the table top.

[Wild Card]

Well, she came home Friday. I really like this hauler. Very good value and fairly well built. Only one issue I have found and didn't see it, or realize it was a problem till I got home. I am finding the top left corner of my entry door is hitting the rain gutter thus not allowing the door to close properly without a little slam. Didn't notice it at the dealer as I passed it off as the tight friction hinge. Got to get it back so they can have a look see.

Merry Christmas!

[otr_pwc]

Originally Posted by Wild Card

Well, she came home Friday. I really like this hauler. Very good value and fairly well built. Only one issue I have found and didn't see it, or realize it was a problem till I got home. I am finding the top left corner of my entry door is hitting the rain gutter thus not allowing the door to close properly without a little slam. Didn't notice it at the dealer as I passed it off as the tight friction hinge. Got to get it back so they can have a look see.

Merry Christmas!

Congratulations on your new 2951!

We also have a 2951. The door should be an easy fix. Regardless of brand, they all have some issues. After you get a chance to exercise everything on your first camping trip, chances are you'll probably find a few more items that need taken care of. If you can live with the door as-is for now, may consider just starting a list of warranty items so you make that first trip to the dealer really count.

Again, congratulations! And, yes, Merry Christmas!

[Wild Card]

Noticed something today and I have read alot of these complaints on Voltage brand in general.

The bathroom heat is blow your hat off. And i find the bedroom to be sub par.

I did some sniffing and there is a 2" duct to the bed room and a 4" to the bathroom.

Now I do hvac for a living and i can tell you thats not right. I did some prep investigation andnit should be fairly easy to swap the 4" from the bathroom to the bedroom and vice versa.

I am also going to email the factory about this as I have read this complaint from about every Voltage owner that posts on the www.

[Wild Card]

This is to the OP. I ask if what I am doing on your thread is OK? I dont want to step on your thread with my ideas and mods, I just think its a good Idea to have 1 thread vs many on the same rig.

Just let me know if I am outa line.

[Chipworkz]

Originally Posted by Wild Card

This is to the OP. I ask if what I am doing on your thread is OK? I dont want to step on your thread with my ideas and mods, I just think its a good Idea to have 1 thread vs many on the same rig.

Just let me know if I am outa line.

Not sure how I missed this. I totally agree since us 2951 owners are the minority, it is great to have a mod thread more dedicated to us. Feel free to post whatever you want in here. I am going to do something about this same issue no mine at some point. The first thing I did was put in a new floor register in the bathroom with a shut off flap. BUT when I shut off the vent, the floor blows up so air is leaking between the linoleum and sub floor. The bathrooms always get really hot since there are small closed off room. I haven't got around to fixing this leak yet but plan to soon.

[otr_pwc]

Originally Posted by Wild Card

Noticed something today and I have read alot of these complaints on Voltage brand in general.

The bathroom heat is blow your hat off. And i find the bedroom to be sub par.

I did some sniffing and there is a 2" duct to the bed room and a 4" to the bathroom.

Now I do hvac for a living and i can tell you thats not right. I did some prep investigation andnit should be fairly easy to swap the 4" from the bathroom to the bedroom and vice versa.

I am also going to email the factory about this as I have read this complaint from about every Voltage owner that posts on the www.

Originally Posted by Chipworkz

Not sure how I missed this. I totally agree since us 2951 owners are the minority, it is great to have a mod thread more dedicated to us. Feel free to post whatever you want in here. I am going to do something about this same issue no mine at some point. The first thing I did was put in a new floor register in the bathroom with a shut off flap. BUT when I shut off the vent, the floor blows up so air is leaking between the linoleum and sub floor. The bathrooms always get really hot since there are small closed off room. I haven't got around to fixing this leak yet but plan to soon.

We just replaced all the 2" flexible ducting to the bedroom with 4" flexible ducting on our 2951. Outside of having to cut the floor directly underneath the bathroom sink to make room for the larger 4" ducting, and the installation of a 4" "Y" near the heater, it was a fairly easy job. Rather than install 2" flexible ducting for the bathroom, we used the existing 4" flexible ducting and installed a baffle (similar to the register Chipworks is using) to limit air flow to the bathroom. It takes very little air-flow to heat the bathroom. Works great now---bathroom warm (not hot), bedroom warm!

As a test, we did try using the baffle on the 4" bathroom ducting along with the existing 2" flexible ducting. It does limit air-flow to the bathroom and increase air-flow to the bedroom; however, at least on our system, you can tell it reduces the overall output volume of the heater. On our 2951, 1/3 of the heater's output is routed to the bathroom's 4" flexible ducting. The bedroom's 2" flexible ducting is T'd off the bathroom ducting. IMO, really need that 4" flexible ducting for the bedroom to reduce the bottleneck brought on by using an adjustable register or baffle in the bathroom. Without the 4" flexible ducting, 1/3 of the heater's output will be forced through that 2" flexible ducting---not good.

Why Voltage didn't use the 2" for the bathroom and 4" for the bedroom, like Wild Card mentioned, is beyond me.

[Wild Card]

Originally Posted by otr_pwc

We just replaced all the 2" flexible ducting to the bedroom with 4" flexible ducting on our 2951. Outside of having to cut the floor directly underneath the bathroom sink to make room for the larger 4" ducting, and the installation of a 4" "Y" near the heater, it was a fairly easy job. Rather than install 2" flexible ducting for the bathroom, we used the existing 4" flexible ducting and installed a baffle (similar to the register Chipworks is using) to limit air flow to the bathroom. It takes very little air-flow to heat the bathroom. Works great now---bathroom warm (not hot), bedroom warm!

As a test, we did try using the baffle on the 4" bathroom ducting along with the existing 2" flexible ducting. It does limit air-flow to the bathroom and increase air-flow to the bedroom; however, at least on our system, you can tell it reduces the overall output volume of the heater. On our 2951, 1/3 of the heater's output is routed to the bathroom's 4" flexible ducting. The bedroom's 2" flexible ducting is T'd off the bathroom ducting. IMO, really need that 4" flexible ducting for the bedroom to reduce the bottleneck brought on by using an adjustable register or baffle in the bathroom. Without the 4" flexible ducting, 1/3 of the heater's output will be forced through that 2" flexible ducting---not good.

Why Voltage didn't use the 2" for the bathroom and 4" for the bedroom, like Wild Card mentioned, is beyond me.

Havnt had a chance to make this repair or look at it in any further...but your saying the bathroom and the bedroom come off the furnace in a "y"? I did not see this on mine it looked like indivudual runs back to the furnace. Other than upsizing like you had to for the bedroom, a 4"to 2" reducer for the bath vent need found or fabricated. You should not have lost any total volume of air through the system as all you end up doing is swapping the duct locations.

[Pinshootr]

Has any one converted their ramp to the party deck yet?, If so what parts/where did you buy them from did you use?

[lcv800]

Not sure what model you have, but I use mine as a party deck all the time. It came with all parts, so I'm not sure what you need.
Rusty

[otr_pwc]

Originally Posted by otr_pwc

We just replaced all the 2" flexible ducting to the bedroom with 4" flexible ducting on our 2951. Outside of having to cut the floor directly underneath the bathroom sink to make room for the larger 4" ducting, and the installation of a 4" "Y" near the heater, it was a fairly easy job. Rather than install 2" flexible ducting for the bathroom, we used the existing 4" flexible ducting and installed a baffle (similar to the register Chipworks is using) to limit air flow to the bathroom. It takes very little air-flow to heat the bathroom. Works great now---bathroom warm (not hot), bedroom warm!

As a test, we did try using the baffle on the 4" bathroom ducting along with the existing 2" flexible ducting. It does limit air-flow to the bathroom and increase air-flow to the bedroom; however, at least on our system, you can tell it reduces the overall output volume of the heater. On our 2951, 1/3 of the heater's output is routed to the bathroom's 4" flexible ducting. The bedroom's 2" flexible ducting is T'd off the bathroom ducting. IMO, really need that 4" flexible ducting for the bedroom to reduce the bottleneck brought on by using an adjustable register or baffle in the bathroom. Without the 4" flexible ducting, 1/3 of the heater's output will be forced through that 2" flexible ducting---not good.

Why Voltage didn't use the 2" for the bathroom and 4" for the bedroom, like Wild Card mentioned, is beyond me.

Originally Posted by Wild Card

Havnt had a chance to make this repair or look at it in any further...but your saying the bathroom and the bedroom come off the furnace in a "y"? I did not see this on mine it looked like indivudual runs back to the furnace. Other than upsizing like you had to for the bedroom, a 4"to 2" reducer for the bath vent need found or fabricated. You should not have lost any total volume of air through the system as all you end up doing is swapping the duct locations.

Wild Card, Voltage may have installed your system differently from ours.

To clarify, my first paragraph explained the mods we did. The second paragraph explained the testing we did BEFORE we did any mods. My apologies if you found this confusing.

As I mentioned, our 2951 came from the factory with the bedroom 2" flexible ducting "T'd" off the 4" flexible ducting that led to the bathroom. The 2" flexible ducting to the bedroom did not attach or flow from the heater itself.

And you're correct, we did not lose any total volume after doing the mod. The entire system now works great--we now get even heat throughout the entire trailer.

Lastly, my second paragraph was simply food for thought for those who may decide to simply block or limit air-flow to the bathroom register to correct the bathroom/bedroom imbalance. Assuming their system is installed the same way as ours, this would reduce the overall efficiency of the entire system by attempting to force nearly 1/3 of the heater's output (from a 4" duct) through the 2" flexible ducting to the bedroom.

[Pinshootr]

2951 thats why I posted here in the 2951 section LOL thanks ours does not come as a party deck so we would have to convert it.

[pdonoghu]

I assume your ramp door is structurally sound enough to be a patio deck, you may want to check with the manufacturer. Our Voltage has a Lippert ramp/patio door. There are two steel cables that attach to eyelet holes in welded corner pieces of the upper door frame. They use oval caribiner like clips to connect the cables. The bottom of the cables attach to the deck to brackets with pin clips. I'd be concerned that your ramp has the integrity and necessary reinforcement to secure the brackets and hold the weight. That's the basic patio deck.

If you want the side railings, you'll need the two side pieces, brackets, and the two pieces for the end of the ramp. There were sets for sale at one time on this site. You'd have to measure to see if they will fit your ramp. Most of the setups also have a pull down screen to keep bugs out of the garage.

I suspect buying this in pieces new would be very expensive. If you can find used pieces from a salvage yard, or from someone selling theirs, probably more practical. It would help if you share your make, model trailer & ramp door manufacturer. Was the setup available as an option? If the door was not engineered to be supported from two cables, or the brackets are not installed properly, the patio could fail catastrophically.

[Wild Card]

Originally Posted by otr_pwc

Wild Card, Voltage may have installed your system differently from ours.

To clarify, my first paragraph explained the mods we did. The second paragraph explained the testing we did BEFORE we did any mods. My apologies if you found this confusing.

As I mentioned, our 2951 came from the factory with the bedroom 2" flexible ducting "T'd" off the 4" flexible ducting that led to the bathroom. The 2" flexible ducting to the bedroom did not attach or flow from the heater itself.

And you're correct, we did not lose any total volume after doing the mod. The entire system now works great--we now get even heat throughout the entire trailer.

Lastly, my second paragraph was simply food for thought for those who may decide to simply block or limit air-flow to the bathroom register to correct the bathroom/bedroom imbalance. Assuming their system is installed the same way as ours, this would reduce the overall efficiency of the entire system by attempting to force nearly 1/3 of the heater's output (from a 4" duct) through the 2" flexible ducting to the bedroom.

Yep I got confused about your testing...thought it was after the mod.

[Wild Card]

Originally Posted by Pinshootr

2951 thats why I posted here in the 2951 section LOL thanks ours does not come as a party deck so we would have to convert it.

Any dealer should be able to get what you need. It is a factory option...same door from the ones I looked at with and without the deck option.

[Pinshootr]

some have made their own conversions, so I was looking for a response from them, don't want to pay $2000 for the parts from a dealer!!! Thanks though

[lcv800]

Go to a dealer and take some photos. If you didn't build the side rails, I'll bet you could turn that ramp into a deck for under $100 from parts at a hardware store. Railings are a different story.
Rusty

[Pinshootr]

mounted this below the entertainment center.