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Old 04-22-2016, 11:35 PM   #1
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Me too - Swintech and Bedroom floor

Hey all,

I hate to have and say : me too.

First thank you all for sharing the issues you have had with slide system and flooring trouble in extension. I probably would't have inspected the rig as thoroughly as i did and would have ended up with major problems lather.

Quick questions, for those of you that had the Swintech slides system repaired, has it fixed the issue forever (With maybe a bit more maintenance perhaps) or is it something that will continuously give trouble?

I recently noticed issues with the big slide on my 3600. Large side started making weird noise and popping sound on the left side of it. Tracks being eaten up etc... usual thing showing a scrapped track system.

Further inspection of bedroom floor issue with the flooring being a bit soft under the front roller.

After a visit to the dealer today they ordered an entire slide kit to repair the large slide out and have to remove the bedroom floor and replace the floor panel.

The good news so far is the dealer offered great service and promised quick repair.

I will let you know in about 1-2 weeks what it looks like when i pick it up again.

Stay tuned!!!!
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Old 04-23-2016, 11:41 AM   #2
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Bonjour Sebastien (HudsonFrog). Good luck with your repairs. It will be interesting to hear how it all works out (ie. what challenges the dealer faced upon making repair? how long it actually took them? and cost, if you don't mind saying?)


Regarding the soft bedroom slide floor, did the dealer say exactly where/how water was coming in from? And how they plan to address that so your new/replacement floor doesn't fall victim to same? Merci.
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Old 04-23-2016, 12:34 PM   #3
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My large slide did the same thing chewing up the trach along with throwing a trouble code on the control box. Took it to a dealer near me for repair under warranty. They replaced the track and another part that had corroded causing the problem. I am not an expert on these systems, but if I remember correctly the corrosion included some sort of block that is supposed to move with the track as the slide is brought in and out..
They also made sure everything was timed and aligned properly. I have not had any problems since. ( hopefully I did not jinx myself)
They told me that the repair would have cost around $650.
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Old 04-23-2016, 01:38 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikesnider View Post
Bonjour Sebastien (HudsonFrog). Good luck with your repairs. It will be interesting to hear how it all works out (ie. what challenges the dealer faced upon making repair? how long it actually took them? and cost, if you don't mind saying?)


Regarding the soft bedroom slide floor, did the dealer say exactly where/how water was coming in from? And how they plan to address that so your new/replacement floor doesn't fall victim to same? Merci.
I just purchased it so it's covered under the warranty they gave me and wont cost anything. They said the complete slide kit was approximately 500 per side so it would have cost 1000$ + labors to repair slide. Should take about a week for everything.

They also have to change the cargo door spring as 4 of the 6 are broken. Most probably because they rusted and stuck together somehow. Ill keep the new ones greased to prevent future issues.

For the bedroom slides they think water came in at the bottom track screws. They will know better once they take it appart. They said it will take them 1-2 days. It wont cost me anything but ill ask them how much it would have been. One plywood with a tarp glued so it would be the labor thats the bulk of it.

They did mention it would have been much more complex if it had been the big slide. First it much more complex to remove (heavier) and they have to laminate several layer of wood to create the 13 feets floor. You cant buy a 13' plywood.

I am curious for thoses of you that had the same problems, how did you make sure it didnt come back?

I really like the Voltage but it's disapointing to have theses issues. i hope i havent subcribed to a new slide kit every two years...ill check the shoes and parts closely a few times a year now that i now....
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Old 04-23-2016, 01:40 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4wlow View Post
My large slide did the same thing chewing up the trach along with throwing a trouble code on the control box. Took it to a dealer near me for repair under warranty. They replaced the track and another part that had corroded causing the problem. I am not an expert on these systems, but if I remember correctly the corrosion included some sort of block that is supposed to move with the track as the slide is brought in and out..
They also made sure everything was timed and aligned properly. I have not had any problems since. ( hopefully I did not jinx myself)
They told me that the repair would have cost around $650.
Thanks for the feedback!

Did they give any advice on preventive maintenance to prevent future problems?

My dealer said once they install it properly (i believe that why they ordered the complete kit) it should be ok but recommended i dont put too much weight in the extension.
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Old 04-23-2016, 05:54 PM   #6
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HudsonFrog, First glad you have a good dealer, I do also, I am like everybody else, want to know what it will cost? I like how they told you, not to put to much weight on that slide, the slide I am having trouble with is the kitchen slide, which has the stove and large Refrigerator, but we love our Voltage
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Old 04-23-2016, 07:22 PM   #7
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The roller broke on my main slide but warranty repairs took care of it and, so far, no further issues. These trailers are just thrown together and the Schwintek needs proper alignment to work properly.
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Old 05-05-2016, 03:14 AM   #8
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Quick update on my 3600.

The bedroom slide floor was repaired in a few days. Water was coming in from the screws although none was missing. Just a poor job originally.

Spoke with dealer today and they are waiting for the Schwintek parts to arrive so they fix the large slide. They expect to get everything done by end of week.

They also replaced the cargo door hinge spring that had broken. I will need to keep them lubed so they dont break again i guess. The broken ones looked pretty dried and stuck in rust.

I'll ask them how much it would have cost to repair this out of warranty and will let you guys know.

Happy Camping!!!!

Seb.
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Old 05-05-2016, 02:29 PM   #9
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Seb, just my 2 cents... I'm assuming your dealer thinks water was entering through screw holes because they see rust on the screws? But rusty screws may actually just be the result of water coming in from another source, passing around the screws, causing them to rust.


In my case (bedroom slide), I finally traced water entering from the slide top, where the vinyl top cover meets the metal flange of the slide's top facia. The water then followed under the top flange until it met and turned downward under the flange of the side facia -- and of course passing over its screws along the way down, causing them to rust.


The attached pic shows water on the INSIDE edge of the side facia's flange at the bottom. Note: the bottom facia is removed here.


That exposed the floor's edge to water, the floor swelled up over time, which then caused the bottom facia's seam of caulk on the exterior face of the slide to split, allowing the floor even greater exposure to water across the entire exterior length of the bottom facia.


To resolve my problem, I simply beefed up the caulk between the vinyl and facia flange on the top of the slide. Since then, no more water leak!! I'm now leaving the bedroom slide extended to maximize air circulation to totally dry out the slide floor. (It wasn't that wet, actually, but swelling was evident). The floor already feels firm enough to avoid having to replace altogether. Slide operation is working fine. But I'll continue to watch it closely (that water stays away from the floor) and hope the situation hasn't changed the structure of the slide such that the tolerances of its mechanics are exceeded.


At this point, I'm not sure what pisses me off more: either the lack of quality/care in the original caulk job, or that it took me this long to find the problem. As a newbie, I just assumed that caulk was visible at that joint so it had to be ok. Right? Not!


Bottom line: I hope that your dealer has INDEED found and fixed your water intrusion problem (which they think is through the screw holes). It would be a shame to have the slide rebuilt but the true culprit still looming. Merci et bonne chance.
Attached Files
File Type: doc Voltage bedroom slide water droplet.doc (2.94 MB, 188 views)
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Old 05-06-2016, 02:34 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikesnider View Post
Seb, just my 2 cents... I'm assuming your dealer thinks water was entering through screw holes because they see rust on the screws? But rusty screws may actually just be the result of water coming in from another source, passing around the screws, causing them to rust.


In my case (bedroom slide), I finally traced water entering from the slide top, where the vinyl top cover meets the metal flange of the slide's top facia. The water then followed under the top flange until it met and turned downward under the flange of the side facia -- and of course passing over its screws along the way down, causing them to rust.


The attached pic shows water on the INSIDE edge of the side facia's flange at the bottom. Note: the bottom facia is removed here.


That exposed the floor's edge to water, the floor swelled up over time, which then caused the bottom facia's seam of caulk on the exterior face of the slide to split, allowing the floor even greater exposure to water across the entire exterior length of the bottom facia.


To resolve my problem, I simply beefed up the caulk between the vinyl and facia flange on the top of the slide. Since then, no more water leak!! I'm now leaving the bedroom slide extended to maximize air circulation to totally dry out the slide floor. (It wasn't that wet, actually, but swelling was evident). The floor already feels firm enough to avoid having to replace altogether. Slide operation is working fine. But I'll continue to watch it closely (that water stays away from the floor) and hope the situation hasn't changed the structure of the slide such that the tolerances of its mechanics are exceeded.


At this point, I'm not sure what pisses me off more: either the lack of quality/care in the original caulk job, or that it took me this long to find the problem. As a newbie, I just assumed that caulk was visible at that joint so it had to be ok. Right? Not!


Bottom line: I hope that your dealer has INDEED found and fixed your water intrusion problem (which they think is through the screw holes). It would be a shame to have the slide rebuilt but the true culprit still looming. Merci et bonne chance.
Mike

Thanks for sharing in great details, now that i know i will definitely pay close attention when i go to pick it back up and inspect.

I'm glad you could fix it properly without too much trouble.

It absolutely totally drives me nuts to see theses examples of poor attention to details from Dutchmen. This is something that's easy to fix for them and it would warrant a recall on their part to inspect and correct.

Seb
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Old 07-15-2017, 05:49 PM   #11
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Slide floor repair/replace

Hello fellow rver’s . We have a V-3950 voltage, been researching, after the fact, on how to avoid water damage. Finding many helpful suggestions. My question is has anyone completed (DIY) a floor repair. I need to replace the bed room slide floor. I researched and found a few vid’s but nothing model specify, with this style slide system. Has anyone found a link, web, or even youtube on this model. Or has anyone even taking pictures while completing work. A friend and I or able to do this, just hate jumping blind into it. Hate surprises. Any advice would be grateful
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Old 07-16-2017, 12:58 AM   #12
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It's not pretty, but it's effective: 1/8" steel plates where the floor was soft.

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