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Old 06-21-2015, 03:05 AM   #1
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Low water pressure

I have a 2014 Voltage 3818 I'm connect to the city water at the camp ground and have little to no pressure sometimes other times it is ok. I have to turn on my pump sometime to get enough pressure to take a shower. Good pressure at the faucet so I know it is not there. Any ideas why.
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Old 06-21-2015, 04:27 AM   #2
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Most parks I've stayed at I've experienced variable pressure from day to day, or hour to hour. The explanation I got was varying pressure based on how much water was being demanded throughout the park by all the guests. Where I'm at right now, I can kinda tell that the pressure seems to be lowest in the morning and in the evening. Maybe due to showering and cooking going on in most campers simultaneously? I did at one point think it was my pressure regulator going bad, but I've since gone through a few and don't believe it's ever been the source of the varying pressure.
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Old 06-21-2015, 04:32 AM   #3
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I have a 2014 Voltage 3818 I'm connect to the city water at the camp ground and have little to no pressure sometimes other times it is ok. I have to turn on my pump sometime to get enough pressure to take a shower. Good pressure at the faucet so I know it is not there. Any ideas why.
Hmm, let's think this out loud. Let's assume the city water pressure is very low because of demand. Say down to 10 psi. Now he turns on his pump to compensate, and it puts out 35 psi (at least until he opens the shower valves). The backflow preventer keeps city water from going into the fresh tank, but would his pump-pressurized system now back-feed into the camp water pipe? Thoughts?
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Old 06-21-2015, 04:52 AM   #4
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There should be a backflow preventer at his city water inlet, as well. It would be visible behind the little screen filter at his city water inlet.
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Old 06-21-2015, 05:06 AM   #5
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Most parks I've stayed at I've experienced variable pressure from day to day, or hour to hour. The explanation I got was varying pressure based on how much water was being demanded throughout the park by all the guests. Where I'm at right now, I can kinda tell that the pressure seems to be lowest in the morning and in the evening. Maybe due to showering and cooking going on in most campers simultaneously? I did at one point think it was my pressure regulator going bad, but I've since gone through a few and don't believe it's ever been the source of the varying pressure.
It could be not 5 minutes after I posted the question I had good waterless ute again. I asked one of the camp ground managers about it and they said they have never had anyone complain before so I thought it might be a problem in the rig
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Old 06-21-2015, 05:09 AM   #6
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So to add on to this concern...we were parked in a KOA last night, just plugged in the power. Had some 60 gallons in the fresh water tank and thought that would work for showers and toilets for the night.

Toilets work fine, no problem flushing.

But the shower is wimpy.

So is it possible the pump won't "pump" enough water for a decent shower?

Thoughts please?

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Old 06-21-2015, 05:12 AM   #7
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Do you run an inline water pressure regulator or water filter on your water hose? I might try experimenting to see if either of those could be causing your problem (before digging around in the camper's plumbing). Maybe ask a neighbor about the water pressure and see what they think. Maybe it's the camp, but no one's complained to that employee?
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Old 06-21-2015, 05:32 AM   #8
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Do you run an inline water pressure regulator or water filter on your water hose? I might try experimenting to see if either of those could be causing your problem (before digging around in the camper's plumbing). Maybe ask a neighbor about the water pressure and see what they think. Maybe it's the camp, but no one's complained to that employee?
I do not have a water filter on my hose. I tried a new pressure regulator and that did not seem to help. I also took out the pressure regulator it gave me a little more water pressure but not much more. It gets so bad at the ketchen sink that it will not keep the sprayer on at the faucet sometimes.
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Old 06-21-2015, 05:47 AM   #9
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You seem to be describing a flow problem more that a pressure problem. With city water on (with or without external pressure regulator), and the pump off, does water rush for a second or two before slowing down? That would be built-up pressure from the city water, but dampened because of a flow restriction.
Now, if that is the case, it most certainly has to be somewhere between the campground faucet and your system before the point where the pump would also bring water in. That means your hose, the screened city water connector, that backflow preventer that Moogal referred to, or the short length of hose bringing water to the point where the water pump and the rest of the system join together. Did you place something heavy in a compartment, that might have shifted, and is now pinching a hose? Any hose in that system kinked? Is your fresh water hose unrestricted, can you blow through it? Since your system works fine on the pump, I don't suspect the pump or anything past it, such as faucets or shower heads.
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Old 06-21-2015, 07:06 AM   #10
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Marty,

Just the opposite. When on City Water in the RV park, everything is just fabulous.

When on fresh water in the tank, and on RV park power...the shower is wimpy, and the kitchen sink spray faucet is the same.

It starts that way, and ends that way.

Thoughts?

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Old 06-21-2015, 03:39 PM   #11
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Marty,

Just the opposite. When on City Water in the RV park, everything is just fabulous.

When on fresh water in the tank, and on RV park power...the shower is wimpy, and the kitchen sink spray faucet is the same.

It starts that way, and ends that way.

Thoughts?

Pirate
Pirate, sorry I read the thread incorrectly. If your whole system works fine under city water pressure, but is wimpy only when using the fresh water and pump method, then either the pump, or a restriction is the problem. In our TT, the shower is useable even if one sink faucet is on. Turn another on, for a total of three, then the pressure gets so low that the shower diverter will fall out, and water runs into the tub. But that's three taps going at once.
Look for a clogged screen at the inlet or outlet of the pump. You'll have to either have valves off or the tank drained, or be working with a model where the fresh tank is physically below the pump, depending on your model. Hopefully, it's just a clogged screen. If not, you may be in the market for a new pump.
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Old 06-21-2015, 04:55 PM   #12
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Marty,

Thanks!

Have the basement panel separating the basement from the plumbing out...its in my shop...has been since last year's valve problems.

So I have access to the pump now. We're on city water here and I drained the fresh water tank on the way here.

So I should be able to check things without getting drowned...correct???

Thanks,

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Old 06-21-2015, 06:03 PM   #13
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Yes, you'll always want to put some kind of water catch/drip pan underneath, because when you open pipes you can expect some residual water. Somehow, you want to disconnect the pump at both inlet and outlet. Look for a screen. Look for calcium/particle build-up. Look for obstructions, kinks, etc. We know the pump runs, so I'm not thinking anything like motor or electrics. I'm concerned about the efficiency of the pump. If you don't find anything obvious, your next step is to get it to a specialist. The pump may have lost some pressure/efficiency through a cracked or broken impeller. Good luck!
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Old 06-21-2015, 07:02 PM   #14
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Yes, you'll always want to put some kind of water catch/drip pan underneath, because when you open pipes you can expect some residual water. Somehow, you want to disconnect the pump at both inlet and outlet. Look for a screen. Look for calcium/particle build-up. Look for obstructions, kinks, etc. We know the pump runs, so I'm not thinking anything like motor or electrics. I'm concerned about the efficiency of the pump. If you don't find anything obvious, your next step is to get it to a specialist. The pump may have lost some pressure/efficiency through a cracked or broken impeller. Good luck!
No impeller in demand pumps. Most have a three diaphragm configuration to move water smoothly. The diaphragms do split and do impede the water flow.
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Old 06-21-2015, 07:08 PM   #15
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Is there a water filter in line from the city source? My current filter needs to be changed, there is a noticeable drop in pressure from when it was new. Still useable mind you, but the water is really dirty here and I am wanting to wait until we leave before we change it, or it drives Boss Lady bat s**t crazy.

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Old 06-21-2015, 07:30 PM   #16
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No impeller in demand pumps. Most have a three diaphragm configuration to move water smoothly. The diaphragms do split and do impede the water flow.
Thanks, I didn't know that! Trying to help the guy out based on general knowledge, but had never been inside one in an RV. Have been around plumbing and pumps for years, but didn't know about these models. Appreciate it!
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Old 06-21-2015, 07:33 PM   #17
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Is there a water filter in line from the city source? My current filter needs to be changed, there is a noticeable drop in pressure from when it was new. Still useable mind you, but the water is really dirty here and I am wanting to wait until we leave before we change it, or it drives Boss Lady bat s**t crazy.

Cale
Cale, I don't understand. First you ask if there is a water filter, then you say you have one, and it needs to be changed. If you do have a water filter, that could be the reason you have lost flow and pressure. Also, since the water is dirty, you might also look at the aerators at the end of each faucet. They have small screens, and catch a lot of pebbles and stuff. They simply unscrew at the end of each faucet. Tip: Close the drain at each sink before you unscrew it. Otherwise you might drop a small piece down the drain.
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Old 06-21-2015, 07:47 PM   #18
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Our water storage is usually below the demand pump and the pump can lift water, pressurize it and send it on its way. An impeller pump can't normally lift water if there is air in the pump. However, if the air is removed from the pump it can lift and pump water providing a perfect seal is maintained between the water source and the impeller.
Rural fire departments were graded on their ability to 'draft' water from ponds or pools or portable tanks for firefighting purposes. This ability to draft water from a source other than a pressurized system was used in determining the fire department's classification and had an impact on a homeowner's insurance policy.


Only thing is no one has invented a 1000+ gallon per minute diaphragm pump but I imagine it would be a big beast.
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Old 06-21-2015, 08:40 PM   #19
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Marty,

OK, I can take steps to catch any drain water and look for a screen.

"get it to a specialist?" Ummm...that's me.

I'm not taking it back to the dealer unless its something major covered by the extended warranty.

Just not willing to leave for weeks. Finally found out that the "appointment date" is just for dropping it off, has nothing to do with when they will work on it or when you will get it back. Not quite like a car dealership.

Not afraid to buy a new, or bigger? better? pump...just need it to work as we're home for five days the end of June, first of July and then rolling the month of July...sometimes dry camping.

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Old 06-21-2015, 08:49 PM   #20
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Marty,

OK, I can take steps to catch any drain water and look for a screen.

"get it to a specialist?" Ummm...that's me.

I'm not taking it back to the dealer unless its something major covered by the extended warranty.

Just not willing to leave for weeks. Finally found out that the "appointment date" is just for dropping it off, has nothing to do with when they will work on it or when you will get it back. Not quite like a car dealership.

Not afraid to buy a new, or bigger? better? pump...just need it to work as we're home for five days the end of June, first of July and then rolling the month of July...sometimes dry camping.

Pirate
OK, a man after my own heart! I'd rather spend money, fix it myself, than take it to bozos and wait for weeks! You might get a pressure gauge of some sort plumbed in to a tee in the cold water side. You can then see the pressure you get both on city water and when the pump has the system up to pressure. You can then tell at a glance how pump pressure compares with its advertised rating.
From what you tell me, you might very well be in the market for a new pump. Get a better-than-builder's-grade/stock pump. Spend $20 more and get a better one. (or more???) There are lots available. If you have easy access to the pump, the rest should be easy. Just to be safe, pull the 12V fuse in your converter that powers the pump system before you R+R.
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