Leveling system relay location

[donzinger]

Originally Posted by skifamily

Found your post and I have no clue where you are referring to on 50amp relay. I have looked at breakers inside entry door - did not take out each fuse though. I did turn off the breakers and there is still power to the level up so thinking that might not be related.

These relays are located on a bus bar above your batteries near the hydraulic motor/pump. Mine was lose and over time, burnt the stud inside the housing. After that I checked them all to be sure they were tight.

[skifamily]

Donzinger! Thanks - I now see what is there. And that for me was the problem. Does anyone know what the other cables go to so if it goes out we all can remember what the other bus connections control!!

Thanks again.

[skifamily]

Well my leveling is back to the clicking again. So the jacks are not going up or down. I have ordered a new circuit breaker - but this time one that when it trips I can hopefully easily reset. LCI says I should either be able to reset or it is auto reset circuit breaker. He says Auto reset occurs when it cools off. The breaker in this post does not show a way to reset.

Now need to try and figure out why this keeps happening. I do not sense any other electrical issues but maybe there is. The shore power cover with the blue LED light quit working but 50amps coming in good - running all 3 ACs just fine.

Any ideas as to the possible issue?

[ATCguy]

Ok, just so happens that I had trouble with my system today. Got to the campground, backed & maneuvered into my spot just where I wanted to be... went to lower the front legs... the passenger-side leg lowered 2 inches, then STOPPED. Subsequent presses of the button on the control panel produced only solenoid clicks.

Opened the front hatch, checked all the connectors, everything tight. No fuses to check other than the 10-amp one to the control panel, and I had no errors there. Called Lippert tech support, he had me check a few items, no joy.

Checked online, found a local RV shop. Got back in the truck, and pulled the RV into town. Local shop got me in after a short wait and quickly found the trouble.

He determined the circuit breaker on the wall-bank from the large red wire from the pump was bad. There was NO reset button on this breaker! Removed the breaker from the bank (was a 50-amp)... replaced breaker with a 40-amp (he had no 50 in stock)... reconnected wire... tested system... all worked as advertised.

As it ended up being a long day with travel, and then the unexpected maintenance delay... I'll go take photos tomorrow of exactly which breaker. Just thought I'd post my experience tonight.

[skifamily]

ATCguy - Bummer to hear. At least will have another set of eyes on this to figure out what is happening. LCI support thought low oil or bent jack putting too much stress on pump. Support guy insisted the breaker should be able to be reset either automatic(when it cools off) or push reset. So I ordered a breaker that does allow it to be reset such as this - https://www.delcity.net/store/Manual...98672.h_201365

I would like to know at exactly what point this is getting tripped.

I am headed to the Albuquerque balloon fiesta in a few weeks so hope to not be troubleshooting camper on this trip.

Look forward to hearing what else is discovered so we can solve this.

[4wlow]

Reviving the thread with a problem of my own with the leveling system. I always use the system in manual mode. Everything works fine except when retracting the hydraulic jacks when they are not holding weight. They stop every few inches and I have to continue to press the button for the front or rear jacks. Whichever I happen to be trying to retract. Control panel, relay or something else?

[ATCguy]

Originally Posted by 4wlow

...Control panel, relay or something else?

I’m betting the relay/circuit breaker, as that was a common symptom of mine before the complete failure.

They’re located in the forward generator compartment... in a bank of 5 or 6 relays up on the wall. The one you wanna replace is the one with the heavy gauge red wire going to it from the pump.

I’ll try to get a photo in the morning & post it.

[ATCguy]

Just realized that I forgot to follow up on this... here are photos of what you're looking for:

On my rig, the breaker bank is located high on the right side of the rear bulkhead in the front generator/storage compartment.



There are multiple breakers in the bank, but you're looking for the one with the heavy-gauge red wire from the hydraulic pump.



On mine, the wire is the one in the center that has a blue crimp connector on it.



They say these breakers are supposed to have reset buttons on them... but mine did not. Remove the nuts, and replace the breaker with a new 50-amp one that you can get from almost any auto parts store.

[sundancer 87]

The breakers with the reset buttons are manual resets, the others are automatically reset after the bi-metalic strips cool down.

One note to mention, the copper colored post goes on the bus bar and the silver post serves the load.

[4wlow]

Thanks! Replaced the breaker and everything seems to be working fine. Bought a spare breaker just in case it starts to happen again.

[ATCguy]

[Rod in Az]

I know this thread is older, but it just saved me a lot of aggravation. Replaced the circuit breaker, $6.99 and 10 minutes of my time (including running the system a few times to confirm the fix).

If I had tried to use the extended warranty I would have spent 2 hours taking it to the repair shop, $100 deductible, $50 for fuel, and 2 hours hauling it back. Plus, heaven only knows how long I would have been waiting to get it back.

These types of interactions are priceless!

Thanks again to everyone who posted about this repair!

[Ponderer]

Originally Posted by Rod in Az

I know this thread is older, but it just saved me a lot of aggravation. Replaced the circuit breaker, $6.99 and 10 minutes of my time (including running the system a few times to confirm the fix).

If I had tried to use the extended warranty I would have spent 2 hours taking it to the repair shop, $100 deductible, $50 for fuel, and 2 hours hauling it back. Plus, heaven only knows how long I would have been waiting to get it back.

These types of interactions are priceless!

Thanks again to everyone who posted about this repair!

I just bought a used 2011 Voltage 3900, and there was a recall on one of the circuit breakers, but the dealership doesn't know if it was ever replaced by the previous (original) owner, even though they bought it from the same dealership. Maybe I should ask the service department to replace it at my own expense before PDI.

[Rod in Az]

Originally Posted by Ponderer

I just bought a used 2011 Voltage 3900, and there was a recall on one of the circuit breakers, but the dealership doesn't know if it was ever replaced by the previous (original) owner, even though they bought it from the same dealership. Maybe I should ask the service department to replace it at my own expense before PDI.

No reason not to. Did the recall say what the circuit breaker was for?

If it was one of these, it’s not hard to deal with, but if it was a known issue have them replace it anyway.

[Ponderer]

Rodin AZ, thanks for your reply. This is what the recall says
2011 DUTCHMEN VOLTAGE Recall - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:FUSES AND CIRCUIT BREAKERS
Problem: DUTCHMEN IS RECALLING CERTAIN MODEL YEAR 2011 TRAVEL TRAILERS MANUFACTURED FROM JUNE 10, 2010, THROUGH SEPTEMBER 3, 2010, AND EQUIPPED WITH SIEMENS AND MURRAY ONE INCH PLUG-IN CIRCUIT BREAKERS. THE "SPRING CLIP" PLUG-IN ASSEMBLY MAY BREAK OR FAIL TO PROVIDE SUFFICIENT FORCE TO MAINTAIN A PROPER ELECTRICAL CONNECTION IN THE PANEL BOARD

I'm having trouble with the dealership because their warranty manager contacted Thor, who claims they have no records of anything on any Dutchmen rig prior to 2013, when the company was purchased "with a clean record" as one customer service rep told me, when I called them myself. The recalls are clearly listed on a government website. But the dealership states they get all their recall information directly from Thor. The thing about my rv is,, I don't believe it's a 2011. I think it's a 2012, because of a missing window in the garage (top, near loft) which was the design of the 2012 models. The 2011 models have two smaller windows on the driver side back of the garage. If that's the case, and my rv is actually a 2012, the circuit breaker isn't even an issue because there isn't a similar recall on the 2012 models. My VIN isn't listed with the NHSTA website and Thor/Keystone won't tell me anything about my rig amd I really want to know the date it was manufactured. This is my only real complaint, I understand I bought a used, older model rig and it's an rv, it's not an actual house. I'll have to ask the dealership to replace this item or do it myself, which I may or may not be able to do, depending on the amount of knowledge and effort involved. On a side note, the Norcold, 12 cubic foot refrigerator, which had two recalls, failed inspection by the service department so they're replacing the cooling unit, which is awesome. The service tech seems to be working with me, although a bit caught in the middle. Despite all of this, I'm very grateful to have found this forum with incredible people helping each other out!

[bkuuz1]

I was having a raise and lowering issue and found the bolts in the center of the jacks were loose. When raising or lowering the jacks there was an interment pausing of the jacks.
Hope this helps.