Heat ducts have issues 2017 voltage 3605 - Dutchmen Owners

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Old 11-17-2016, 02:50 AM   #1
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Heat ducts have issues 2017 voltage 3605

Anyone have a resolution for heat duct issues in their voltage? The master bathroom in my 3605 is hot enough to consider it a sauna. However the garage area doesn't blow at all. The living room blows next to nothing.

A quick search turns up no results for a fix, so I may need to pull down the underpinning to have a duct inspection. Any suggestions?
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Old 11-17-2016, 03:26 AM   #2
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I went to the stealership A.D. purchased a couple heat registers that have a flow damper in them, just like the ones in my house and placed one in the bathroom, and one at the island. Those 2 blow the hardest so I reduced their flow and gained that extra in the garage.

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Old 11-17-2016, 12:05 PM   #3
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I also replaced my floor vents with ones that have the dampers for better control. Regarding the garage, I have a 2015 3805 that also did not have any air flow from the heat vent in the garage. I had the dealership investigate this during their repair of warranty items and they found 12 extra feet of flexible duct just bunched up behind the garage vent. They got rid of the extra and now there is heat felt from the garage vent.
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Old 11-17-2016, 09:05 PM   #4
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I just dropped my 2016 3895 at dealer yesterday and that was one of my complaints as well. So I suggested to them to drop the belly cover as well. So we will see what happens.
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Old 11-18-2016, 06:18 AM   #5
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I have a 2015 V3605 with similar symptoms. I can tell you about my rig – yours may be slightly different.

There are three large (3” or 4”) flexible ducts connected to the plenum at the rear of the forced air furnace in the underfloor space behind the rear basement wall. The shortest run is the one going to the bathroom – that’s why it gets so warm so quickly. There’s also a smaller duct run off that one that goes to the bedroom – with less than spectacular performance. The other two large ducts feed other areas of the coach through rectangular foam underfloor ducts.

If you remove the basement wall toward the rear of the unit, you’ll notice several feet of extra duct doubling back on itself and just piled up in the underfloor space. The first step in improving conditioned air flow is to remove the extra ducting and shorten the runs. The furnace plenum is easiest to access from the driver side of the basement. Disconnect the large ducts from the plenum, cut off the excess and reconnect them. Use a piece of sheet metal at the plenum to restrict the flow into the duct that supplies the bathroom – that will increase the flow into the others and keep the bathroom more comfortable.

Remove the floor registers inside your coach and seal the rectangular duct-to-floor connection with metal tape. That will prevent conditioned air from escaping into the uninsulated space above the plastic belly pan.

Remove the fireplace and you’ll see a small flexible duct (probably also way too long) running from the under-floor duct to a round register in the front garage wall. Shorten this duct as much as possible and consider replacing it with a larger duct if your garage use warrants it. While the area behind the fireplace is accessible, you may as well clean up the sound system wiring mess behind the television and the radio/cd player. Just look up while you’re on the floor working on the ducting.

Your return air system consists solely of the louvered panel on the short wall to the right of the kitchen range. The furnace draws the return air directly from the conditioned air in the kitchen area through this panel. The furnace shares the space beneath the bathroom floor with your water pump and interior plumbing connections. If you camp in an area experiencing a ‘hard’ freeze for several hours, leave your furnace thermostat set at 40 degrees or so to keep these pipes from freezing.

Since you have the basement wall open, you’ll also notice how much more basement space you can gain by moving the basement wall framing. My vacuum cleaner was near the center of the basement wall, so changing the bag meant crawling into the basement. There’s plenty of room under the stairs leading to the bedroom for the vacuum cleaner unit and in my case, I was able to cut out about six feet of vacuum hose that wasn’t needed. Check out archived threads for more info on these two mods.

Probably more information than you wanted, but I hope it’s helpful.
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Old 11-18-2016, 03:46 PM   #6
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Here's a very interesting item I came across. I haven't used it but am considering one for the garage area to increase the heat back there.
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Old 11-19-2016, 02:22 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperDuty View Post
I also replaced my floor vents with ones that have the dampers for better control. Regarding the garage, I have a 2015 3805 that also did not have any air flow from the heat vent in the garage. I had the dealership investigate this during their repair of warranty items and they found 12 extra feet of flexible duct just bunched up behind the garage vent. They got rid of the extra and now there is heat felt from the garage vent.
Obviously the installer could give a crap. I sure would like to meet some of these people.
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Old 11-23-2016, 12:16 AM   #8
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Rather than dropping the underbelly or accessing the flex duct behind the basement walls, I suggest first removing the wall vents and pulling out as much of extra flex duct as you can. I did this in my garage as well as the bedroom and was able to remove no less than 4 feet from each. The extra length was just bunched together in the space behind the vent significantly restricting air flow. I have improved flow through both now.

In my unit the heater and plenum is located under/behind the steps. I noticed how warm (almost hot) the riser of my steps got when the furnace was running. Upon inspecting the plenum, I found a sheet metal ring that attaches the flexible duct to the plenum was not installed properly and the knuckle head decided that foil tape was better than locking the ring in place via a quarter turn. Needless to say his taping job was less than stellar resulting in heated air blowing directly on the back of the steps and reducing flow downstream to the kitchen living room area.
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Old 12-05-2016, 03:36 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDMEY3600 View Post
Rather than dropping the underbelly or accessing the flex duct behind the basement walls, I suggest first removing the wall vents and pulling out as much of extra flex duct as you can.
That's a really good idea! Saves time and you won't be crawling on the ground under the rig.

But you would miss the joy of discovering all sorts of things hidden in the deep, dark recesses below the floor. On second thought, best not to go looking for trouble.
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Old 04-16-2017, 11:27 PM   #10
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Same as SuperDuty

Hi. I have the exact same results as SuperDuty. - 2016 Voltage 3605. Bought the dampeners and gained a bit more flow to garage (if you put a dampener in bathroom be sure to allow some airflow as you can melt the floor!!)

During warranty work I had them investigate and they found extra vent hose in a serpentine as well as a sharp angle right by garage.

Removed excess hose and ran a better line and there is a notable gain in airflow.
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