Dragging the back end - Dutchmen Owners

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Old 06-25-2017, 09:26 PM   #1
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Dragging the back end

Within a few short weeks of owning our Voltage 3305, I managed to tear the lower end of the vertical corner strips and the end caps off the rear end. I became very aware of the rear end geometry and how poorly designed this is for typical roadways, parking lot aprons, etc.
we'll, today I managed to really wrench the rear right and I don't even know where exactly it happened. There was never an onbvious deviation in road or parking lot height to be concerned but, with that corner 60'+ back and on the opposite side from where I sit, I never even felt a bump!
Looks like an insurance claim, eh?
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Old 06-25-2017, 09:31 PM   #2
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Out of curiosity are you towing level or nose high?
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Old 06-26-2017, 10:38 AM   #3
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Ouch! Heartbreaker. Insurance for sure. Bummer is the weeks it will be out of service. Not fast on repairs, especially this time of year.
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Old 06-26-2017, 10:45 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Cramblersons View Post
Within a few short weeks of owning our Voltage 3305, I managed to tear the lower end of the vertical corner strips and the end caps off the rear end. I became very aware of the rear end geometry and how poorly designed this is for typical roadways, parking lot aprons, etc.

we'll, today I managed to really wrench the rear right and I don't even know where exactly it happened. There was never an onbvious deviation in road or parking lot height to be concerned but, with that corner 60'+ back and on the opposite side from where I sit, I never even felt a bump!

Looks like an insurance claim, eh?


Sh-t happens, don't kill your self over it
Put in claim and repair at the end of the season


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Old 06-26-2017, 02:00 PM   #5
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Weld some rollers on it. This is what I used 5 of them. Good deal on Amazon
Ultra-Fab 48-979023 2.5" x 3" Weld-On Jumbo Roller
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 06-26-2017, 03:11 PM   #6
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Oh NO, That's a part of the frame on the lower end, if it just came off at the seam, and didn't tear away, then a quick repair, upper part is one piece and just remove and replace, Good Luck, Ins. should cover...
Coming out from Truck Gas Stations, the driveways have a good drop,
If your RV is riding high in the front, its time to add the steel rollers to the rear, since they will be repairing anyway...
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Old 06-26-2017, 04:59 PM   #7
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Just a thought...

Adding the Correct Track system (if not already installed) will raise the rear 2", and help alleviate that issue. Of course, it also makes your ramp a few degrees steeper for getting your toys in & out... but that can be overcome by raising the nose when loading/unloading.
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Old 06-26-2017, 05:53 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by ATCguy View Post
Just a thought...

Adding the Correct Track system (if not already installed) will raise the rear 2", and help alleviate that issue. Of course, it also makes your ramp a few degrees steeper for getting your toys in & out... but that can be overcome by raising the nose when loading/unloading.
I have the same issue. I too have drug the ground and done some damage to the rear of the trailer. Not as bad as yours but I have damaged both of the corner trim pieces. I have replaced my kingpin with a morride to lower the front and still riding high in the front. I now am working with camping world to install the correct track system. We have an appointment for next month and they will install it for about $750. If that doesn't raise it enough then there is also a canadian company that makes some aluminum trailer blocks. I think I would only need about 1 more inch form there. Hopefully I won't even need the blocks.
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Old 06-26-2017, 06:12 PM   #9
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Sorry to see that. I did the same thing to mine on our first trip coming out of a gas station. I was lucky in that only the trim pieces were bent back, but I had the correct track II system installed at the end of that season to raise the bumper up a bit. Still doesn't sit perfectly level but I haven't scraped it since (I'm also a bit more careful).
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Old 06-26-2017, 08:42 PM   #10
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I think a lot of us drag our rear ends especially on our campers.. I have torn my ladder off twice and last year i was pulling into a camping slot. I swung wide to clear the trees and thought nothing of it.. About 15 minutes later I saw a crew working on a water pipe. They came over and told me my stabilizer dragged through the hill which had a water pipe in it and broke the pipe and bent the corner of my camper. Yes mine is low in the rear also..
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Old 06-26-2017, 09:42 PM   #11
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I have a steep railroad crossing at the end of my driveway. I am length limited. Only the 3200 would make the entrance/exit. Max length is in and out is 36' and I had to put skid wheels under the back end to keep the rear bumper from dragging.
I used these wheels... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 06-28-2017, 06:53 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by 4wlow View Post
Out of curiosity are you towing level or nose high?
Ever so slightly nose high. I finally determined where I dragged it. It was in the entrance to Holy Smoke RV Resort near Mt Rushmore. This was my stop for a couple days and I notiiced it (apparently) within minutes of it occurring. Seems the entry is downhill and then levels. I took a bad angle in due to the steep downhill roadway. Was also going a little faster than I typically do when transitioning roadways to driveways. My bad but still a poor design.

I'll look into the correct track system. We've been in the road for 5+ months and only a few days away from the end of our adventure. Plenty of time for repairs. A few warranty items as well.
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Old 06-28-2017, 10:21 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR Buck View Post
I have a steep railroad crossing at the end of my driveway. I am length limited. Only the 3200 would make the entrance/exit. Max length is in and out is 36' and I had to put skid wheels under the back end to keep the rear bumper from dragging.
I used these wheels... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Dr Buck,
Would you mind telling us how you attached these skid wheels and to what you attached them?
Thanks
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Old 06-29-2017, 02:12 AM   #14
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It’s all drilling and bolting. No welding needed. The thick metal plate with a bolt in each end comes with the wheels. I used it as a template to drill. The 2 end bolts are what holds the whole assembly to the camper frame. I drilled through the flat metal plate that was already welded (by the factory) under the camper. It has the slots in it. I do not know what the original purpose of it was.

First, I lined up the plate and drilled so the 2 end bolts also went through the 2” x 2” square tube already welded to the frame by the factory. I installed those 2 end bolts down from inside the square tube. I used a telescoping magnet to get them in where my fingers couldn’t reach. After bolting the plate on with those 2 end bolts I drilled the other factory installed plate for the 2 bolts that are toward the inside of the Voltage. The other 2 are already clear of obstruction.
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Old 06-30-2017, 02:29 PM   #15
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rear end is a drag

I did mine the day I brought it home, entering the driveway which is a tad higher than the street surface. I'm going to purchase two rollers, the 2" x 2", one on each corner should do it. The only problem with that is whom do I get to weld them on.
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Old 07-01-2017, 02:05 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Schuffyman View Post
I did mine the day I brought it home, entering the driveway which is a tad higher than the street surface. I'm going to purchase two rollers, the 2" x 2", one on each corner should do it. The only problem with that is whom do I get to weld them on.
All the welded pieces were already on mine from the factory. Have no idea what they were originally for.
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