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Old 01-26-2016, 03:31 PM   #21
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Believe it or not, I had to break out my shovel here in Florida yesterday ..... Winter is tuff here too!




Attachment 2849

Awe poor baby!

I feel for you, but I can't reach you.
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Old 01-27-2016, 07:06 PM   #22
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I wouldn't worry about the snow on the roof. The park we are staying at had some folks clearing their roofs...however, one of them tore their roof membrane. Plus, that's a long way to fall if you slip. I have not bothered, as snow is a great insulation...

Here is us this morning...
Hi, We are also first time rv'ers. The snow doesn't tear your awnings that cover your slide-outs?
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Old 01-27-2016, 07:48 PM   #23
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Hi, We are also first time rv'ers. The snow doesn't tear your awnings that cover your slide-outs?
Only if it's a very wet and heavy snow like the west coast snow can get.

If it's a concern you can brush it off, but the roof it's self doesn't need to be cleared. I've had over two feet of snow on the roof and just let nature do it's job in the spring. The danger of getting up on a snow covered roof is falling. There roof is slippery enough when it's wet, it's even worst when it's covered with snow.

The other danger it's puncturing the membrane and finding a camp full of water in the spring.

The only thing I do is cover up the A/C units just to keep blowing snow from getting in.
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Old 01-27-2016, 07:57 PM   #24
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Only if it's a very wet and heavy snow like the west coast snow can get.

If it's a concern you can brush it off, but the roof it's self doesn't need to be cleared. I've had over two feet of snow on the roof and just let nature do it's job in the spring. The danger of getting up on a snow covered roof is falling. There roof is slippery enough when it's wet, it's even worst when it's covered with snow.

The other danger it's puncturing the membrane and finding a camp full of water in the spring.

The only thing I do is cover up the A/C units just to keep blowing snow from getting in.
Thank you Hddecker for the reply. I am in Oregon so the snow is wet and heavy. Guess I better keep her closed up if snow is expected. Thanks again for the reply.
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Old 01-28-2016, 03:46 PM   #25
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Hey Bill,

Haven't seen you post since you said you were going to clear the roof.
Seriously wondering if you made it down safely?
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Old 01-28-2016, 06:08 PM   #26
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Hey Bill,

Haven't seen you post since you said you were going to clear the roof.
Seriously wondering if you made it down safely?
Howdy,

After the final flake fell and the winds died down, I ended up with about three feet drifted on the roof of the camper since it sets next to the house. I would never get on top of it covered with snow. After clearing out around it with the snow blower, I use my heavy duty wash brush that extends out about seven feet, and my ten foot step ladder. The brush won't damage the roof, even though I don't get close to it anyway. I got off about two feet of it and all is well.

Many years ago when I was a newbe at this, I did a number on a 30 foot Chateau travel trailer. I used to block the frame at each end for winter storage. That one winter we got well over 36" of snow during one storm. Oops, I didn't block the frame at the axles. It was a wood and tin build. Come spring getting everything ready to go, I discovered the trailer was noticeably bowed up at each end, looked a little like a chair rocker. The suspension compressed under the weight of the snow but the blocked ends didn't. Traded her in and got what we could for it. Live and learn.

Heading south the 18th of February, I've had enough winter this year.
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Old 01-28-2016, 08:49 PM   #27
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Growers know what to do!!!

I deal with greenhouse growers and, as you can imagine, when a heavy snow is forecast they crank up the heaters in the plastic "hoop houses" and the glass/hard plastic greenhouses in order to melt the snow as it lands to keep it from accumulating and collapsing the frail structure...

Would it make sense to crank up the tongue jack to get a good drainage angle on the roof and turn up the heat inside the RV before the snow? I wouldn't do it for a 6" snowfall but might consider it when a 20 to 30" snowfall is predicted.. I did crank up my tongue jack a bit to make sure any water drained off quickly.
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Old 01-28-2016, 08:59 PM   #28
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Hey Matt,
When I was a kid, shoveling snow off of walks & driveways for spending money, there was on elderly guy on our block who always used to tell me "The Good Lord put it there so he can take it away".

With your snowfall it looks like the Good Lord's gonna need some help!!

All the best.
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Old 01-28-2016, 11:04 PM   #29
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I deal with greenhouse growers and, as you can imagine, when a heavy snow is forecast they crank up the heaters in the plastic "hoop houses" and the glass/hard plastic greenhouses in order to melt the snow as it lands to keep it from accumulating and collapsing the frail structure...

Would it make sense to crank up the tongue jack to get a good drainage angle on the roof and turn up the heat inside the RV before the snow? I wouldn't do it for a 6" snowfall but might consider it when a 20 to 30" snowfall is predicted.. I did crank up my tongue jack a bit to make sure any water drained off quickly.
Pat,

I level our camper when I park it in the driveway and forget it until spring, useless we go somewhere in the middle of winter.

I've never had a problem letting the snow melt naturally, the gutters handle the runoff, if you crank up the heat your most likely going to have water running over the sides of the camper. That's what causes the black streaks down the sides.
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Old 01-28-2016, 11:18 PM   #30
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I have always parked my campers and boats nose high so they can drain. Back when campers had flat roofs it was a necessity to keep water from ponding against the roof penetrations and seams. I still do it out of habit.

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Old 01-28-2016, 11:31 PM   #31
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I have always parked my campers and boats nose high so they can drain. Back when campers had flat roofs it was a necessity to keep water from ponding against the roof penetrations and seams. I still do it out of habit.

Aaron
Aaron,

I forgot about the days of flat roofs.

We never did have that problem the Airstreams, did we.
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Old 01-30-2016, 12:11 AM   #32
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Aaron,

I forgot about the days of flat roofs.

We never did have that problem the Airstreams, did we.
Nope, but my 1975 leaked on both ends! It had that crappy rear bumper design where they expected a thin bead of caulking to not allow water into the floor, and the front leaked where some clown left a couple of rivets out under the window frame and they didn't get sealed properly. So much for AS quality. The good news was it could be fixed. That is the one major advantage to an Airstream, they can be torn completely down and put back together. Not at a reasonable cost if you pay to have it done, but it can be done.

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Old 01-30-2016, 06:39 AM   #33
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Nope, but my 1975 leaked on both ends! It had that crappy rear bumper design where they expected a thin bead of caulking to not allow water into the floor, and the front leaked where some clown left a couple of rivets out under the window frame and they didn't get sealed properly. So much for AS quality. The good news was it could be fixed. That is the one major advantage to an Airstream, they can be torn completely down and put back together. Not at a reasonable cost if you pay to have it done, but it can be done.

Aaron
I was just talking about the standing water bit.

Ya, I know they leak like anything else. Ours was the right front curved window and somewhere in the bedroom that I never did find. The bedroom could have just been condensation, it was more like damp vs sopping wet.

There are times I wish I would have gutted it and did it right. It was much nicer pulling the AS vs the brick we have now. I got way better fuel mileage with the AS too.
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